of course you love boats your in florida ,that how half the illegal population gets there.lol

 

Yup and as soon as we get them we give them directions to Spokane Valley Washington and tell them they is good apple pickin jobs there...........

 

I would be interested in looking at that setup as well...

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-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

nah thats down in tri cities they have a lot of border brothers there and right along the east side of the cascades around wenatchee is where the big orchards are

 

ha ha,,,I thought it was funny,We actually dont have much of a problem in our county,our sherriff dont play that crap,he runs em in,ships them off! now to my west in escambia county {pensacola} that sherriff is a wimp and scared of them.In south fla I hear its a mad house,,Im glad im here! not there.....

 

FWIW, glow plug controllers will/can go bad if vehicle is welded upon without batteries being disconnected. Ask me how I know. Even when working on rear bumper.

I would like to see the schematic of "push button" direct (controller bypass) set up as pre heat certainly not needed in summer in the south after warm up.

 

What the schematic looks like would depend on which glow plug system you have.

87 was the year of the change over, so it had both systems.
83 to 86 was the old style spade terminals on the glow plugs
88 to 94 was the new style pin terminals on the glow plugs

87, if the glow plugs have spade terminals, old style, pin connectors, new style

 

This has the new style controller and glow plugs.

 

This is what your controller should look like then ...


The basic jist is ... The white wire in the above picture is a controlled ground by the controller, all you need to do is remove the white wire and ground the terminal it was removed from to energize the Glow Plugs with ignition on.

So for ease explanation I will call that terminal (white wire terminal) the COILGROUND.

You want to use a push button for each motor or one for both ???

I would tie them together ...

Remove the white wires from both relays (the COILGROUND terminal)...
Run a wire from one COILGROUND to the other COILGROUND then to one leg of a push button, the other leg of the push button goes to motor ground.

Being this is a boat, I would run a specific ground wire from one leg of the push button to one motor then the other... Serious grounds are extremely important on boats! The motors should already have a good ground between them and everything else, If you can visually verify a positive ground between motors, you only need to run the push button ground wire to one motor.

Does that makes sense???

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Nice picture.
I currently have four of these little buggers. It is hard to imagine that they are all broke but stranger things have happened.

I like your idea of useing the white wire for ground. That is what I basically did.

I unplugged the white wire and put a ground on it. took power from the main terminal on the relay to the push button and then connected the other leg of the push button to the other small terminal on the relay.

I left the purple (I think it is boat generic) wire conected to the output side of the relay to turn on the dash light when the relay is activated.

I need to set up a test to see if the four controllers are actually bad or not. something that will work on a test bench and not on the boat.

thanks again.

 

You do not ground the white wire ... That wire comes from the controller and is left idle (hanging) with a manual setup.

The terminal you remove the white wire from is what gets grounded.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

OOOOPS

You are right about the white wire.

I like your set up better than mine.

 

Ok so i acuired this '87 6.9 as a no run. New pump and she runs fine...glow plugs don't work though. before i got it the controller has been replaced by a pull button with three settings.

The WTS light comes on but no starting. There are 12v making it to the solenoid in the back of the engine all the connections are ok glow plugs are brand new. Could it just not power the plugs, but signal the wts light?

The connections are crimped correctly so I dont feel this was done by some one completely clueless.

The white wire is spliced in to the switch wire

 

Ok so i acuired this '87 6.9 as a no run. New pump and she runs fine...glow plugs don't work though. before i got it the controller has been replaced by a pull button with three settings.

The WTS light comes on but no starting. There are 12v making it to the solenoid in the back of the engine all the connections are ok glow plugs are brand new. Could it just not power the plugs, but signal the wts light?

The connections are crimped correctly so I dont feel this was done by some one completely clueless.

The white wire is spliced in to the switch wire.

im at a loss...thanks in advance for any help

 

Hi,
My GP controller has gone bad (smoked).
I bought parts from parts house today to install a manual system using a starter relay and P/B.
Before I do this:
Is the Fuel Pump fuel-kill solenoid and the timing advance controlled by this same controller module?
If so, what effect will bypassing the auto controller have on these other systems?

thanks,