i finally did it....
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 1
i finally did it....
the dreaded HG failure..... yes recently i had a lot of Puking issues. went to dealer they checked everything replaced few parts they said might solve the issue, but no go. still puking....so it goes under knife.....
and this might interrupt with me Attending Carlisle event this year....
MOTHERF@#$%R
welcome to 6.0 world.
anyways it i think i have dealer send the heads to machine shop to check for flatness. and after ill get the truck back ARP studs are going in....
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 1
Well id like to do it at the same time , but its still warranty work so they want to be safe. Dealers have been watched. Anything to void the warranty. Ill try but they dont pull the engine to do HG and its no way u can do the studs like that .
And thanks for the offers to help guys..
Anyone wants to stop by to help installing them? Free food and beer !!!
Pm me : )
And thanks for the offers to help guys..
Anyone wants to stop by to help installing them? Free food and beer !!!
Pm me : )
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Well id like to do it at the same time , but its still warranty work so they want to be safe. Dealers have been watched. Anything to void the warranty. Ill try but they dont pull the engine to do HG and its no way u can do the studs like that .
And thanks for the offers to help guys..
Anyone wants to stop by to help installing them? Free food and beer !!!
Pm me : )
And thanks for the offers to help guys..
Anyone wants to stop by to help installing them? Free food and beer !!!
Pm me : )
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 1
Yeah as far as i know they dont lift the cab. If they will im going to go there and put them in myself.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
It's interesting to see how much of a difference there is in opinions on how to tackle particular jobs. Back in the days of leaky heads/gaskets on 5.4L F-150s and Expeditions of 1998 to 2000 vintage I used to replace them body-on, while they were under warranty. All for a whopping 8.0 hours labour!!! Then........came flatratetech.com, which is when I discovered removing cabs/bodies on Ford trucks made for a MUCH easier task that used to be accomplished with VERY sore backaches at the end of the day, not to mention $$$ lost in the rediculous warranty times that FoMoCo expected you to able to carry out said jobs. Of course, it wasn't until AFTER nearly all these trucks on the road were already repaired or the warranties had expired, that the powers that be at FoMoCo changed the warranty labour times to more realistic levels. But not before thousands upon thousands of Ford dealer techs had screamed bloody murder.
From that moment onward, if a drivetrain component is too difficult to access on any particular vehicle, I weigh the options of removing it from the vehicle before I proceed with the repair. Transmission techs remove subframes from certain vehicles to access and remove transmissions, so I don't see what the big deal is to removing cabs from frames.
From that moment onward, if a drivetrain component is too difficult to access on any particular vehicle, I weigh the options of removing it from the vehicle before I proceed with the repair. Transmission techs remove subframes from certain vehicles to access and remove transmissions, so I don't see what the big deal is to removing cabs from frames.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,085
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ca.
Drive the TDI Pete
Last edited by SteveBricks; Aug 1, 2010 at 11:16 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 944
Likes: 0
From: Happy Valley, Oregon
So your saying its easier to pull the cab then the engine? I am pulling the radiator out to have it flushed and we are starting tomorrow on this as time allows.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Yes, I certainly believe pulling the cab is A LOT less work than pulling the engine out with the body bolted to the frame. Here are some photos to give you an idea of what it's like doing it both ways:
DTS Cab & Body Removal
DTS Cab & Body Removal
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 944
Likes: 0
From: Happy Valley, Oregon
Yes, I certainly believe pulling the cab is A LOT less work than pulling the engine out with the body bolted to the frame. Here are some photos to give you an idea of what it's like doing it both ways:
DTS Cab & Body Removal
DTS Cab & Body Removal
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Here is my write-up on how to lift the cab on a 2005 to 2007 truck equipped with a crew cab:
Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by m-chan68
-Begin by positioning the vehicle onto the hoist where it can be lifted. Roll the vehicle straight backwards just until you can open all four doors without hitting the posts of the hoist. Remove the rear seat (18mm nuts and TX-50 bolts I think). Remove all four door opening scuff plates by simply prying on them gently. Once the rear seat is removed, lift up on the carpet to expose the rear cab mount bolts. You will need a 24mm or 15/16" socket for the bolt on the driver side, and a 21mm or 13/16" socket for the bolt on the passenger side. Once removed, lift up on the carpet until access can be gained to the middle row bolts, just behind the front seats. You will see a rubber grommet plug to remove before you have access to the bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16". Remove both the driver and passenger side kick panels. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the steering coupler to the steering column, and once removed, telescope the lower shaft all the way through the firewall. Roll up the carpet on both driver and passenger sides to expose the grommets covering the front cab mount bolts. Again driver side bolt is 24mm or 15/16" and passenger side is 21mm or 13/16". Once removed, this concludes everything needed to remove from inside the vehicle. Roll the vehicle forward to position it onto the lift.
-Raise the vehicle in the air to disconnect everything needed underneath. Begin by draining the cooling system (don't forget to remove the coolant degas bottle cap first). Loosen the plastic 19mm or 3/4" radiator drain pet****. Disconnect both front ABS wheel speed sensors at the rearward sides of both front inner fenderwells. Disconnect the ground strap located underneath the vehicle, just behind the passenger side inner fender well (8mm bolt). Disconnect the parking brake cable at the junction just under the driver side framerail. Once done, fish the front cable through the body mount bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the shifter cable at the transmission manual lever, and the cable mounting bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the lower rad hose from the radiator. Disconnect the two transmission fluid cooler lines at the radiator (you will need to remove the safety lock plastic clips first, and you'll need the special spring lock coupler tool to disconnect the lines). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the power steering fluid cooler to the lower rad support facing the front of the vehicle, and leave the cooler hanging. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines from the external fluid filter housing on the passenger side of the vehicle. Remove all plastic pushpins that secure the rubber air deflector to the lower rad support.
-Evacuate the A/C. Remove all the plastic pushpins at the upper rad support, and disconnect the main battery positive cable retaining push clips as well. Working on the passenger side of the vehicle in the engine compartment, disconnect the A/C line at the suction accumulator (one 13mm nut). Remove the one 8mm bolt securing the engine ground strap to the firewall, just behind the MAP sensor. Disconnect the vacuum line for your pulse vacuum hubs. Remove the passenger side battery. Disconnect the main wiring connected to passenger side battery positive cable. Disconnect the ground strap that's connected to the negative battery cable on the passenger side of the vehicle you now have access to, with the battery removed. Disconnect the "squeeze and pull" type connection by the vacuum (yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire). Disconnect the MAP sensor hose from the intake manifold, and move out of the way. Disconnect the heater hose at the passenger side, just below the alternator, where it connects to the metal tube going into the front cover. Disconnect the upper of the two A/C lines at the top of the A/C condensor (one 13mm nut). Remove both hot and cold side charge air cooler tubes (11mm or 7/16" to loosen the clamps). Disconnect the upper rad hose. Remove the two upper rad support brackets (four 8mm bolts in total). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the fan shroud to the rad and remove the shroud. Remove the coolant degas bottle (two 8mm bolts). Remove the entire air cleaner assembly (don't forget to remove the airflow restrictor gauge and disconnect the MAF sensor first). Disconnect the main central junction box feed to the driver side battery positive cable. Remove the driver side battery. Remove the battery tray (four 13mm bolts). Disconnect two of the three PCM main connectors (it will be pretty obvious which two). Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir (make sure you have a drain bucket below before doing this because it will be messy). Disconnect all lines (two I think both 18mm) to the to brake hydroboost, except the rubber hose going to power steering fluid reservoir. Disconnect the one of the two power steering fluid lines to the steering box, the one that connects to the power steering fluid cooler (20mm crow's foot or short line wrench needed). Disconnect the heater hose on the driver side, where it junctions into where it connects to the degas bottle. Disconnect all the electrical connectors on the driver side inner fender well. Position all wiring out of the way, in preparation for cab lifting. Disconnect the three ABS HCU lines at the HCU and fold over (you will know which three I'm talking about by looking at them). Last, but not least, Remove the front two cab mount nuts on either side of the charge air cooler (18mm).
-Reposition hoist arms to the four corners of the cab, and have an assistant operate the lift SLOWLY, while someone else keeps watch on the progress of the lift. As the cab is raised, you will be able to address any forgotten disconnects at this point. Once the cab is lifted, proceed with the desired repairs.
-Raise the vehicle in the air to disconnect everything needed underneath. Begin by draining the cooling system (don't forget to remove the coolant degas bottle cap first). Loosen the plastic 19mm or 3/4" radiator drain pet****. Disconnect both front ABS wheel speed sensors at the rearward sides of both front inner fenderwells. Disconnect the ground strap located underneath the vehicle, just behind the passenger side inner fender well (8mm bolt). Disconnect the parking brake cable at the junction just under the driver side framerail. Once done, fish the front cable through the body mount bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the shifter cable at the transmission manual lever, and the cable mounting bracket and leave hanging. Disconnect the lower rad hose from the radiator. Disconnect the two transmission fluid cooler lines at the radiator (you will need to remove the safety lock plastic clips first, and you'll need the special spring lock coupler tool to disconnect the lines). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the power steering fluid cooler to the lower rad support facing the front of the vehicle, and leave the cooler hanging. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler lines from the external fluid filter housing on the passenger side of the vehicle. Remove all plastic pushpins that secure the rubber air deflector to the lower rad support.
-Evacuate the A/C. Remove all the plastic pushpins at the upper rad support, and disconnect the main battery positive cable retaining push clips as well. Working on the passenger side of the vehicle in the engine compartment, disconnect the A/C line at the suction accumulator (one 13mm nut). Remove the one 8mm bolt securing the engine ground strap to the firewall, just behind the MAP sensor. Disconnect the vacuum line for your pulse vacuum hubs. Remove the passenger side battery. Disconnect the main wiring connected to passenger side battery positive cable. Disconnect the ground strap that's connected to the negative battery cable on the passenger side of the vehicle you now have access to, with the battery removed. Disconnect the "squeeze and pull" type connection by the vacuum (yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire). Disconnect the MAP sensor hose from the intake manifold, and move out of the way. Disconnect the heater hose at the passenger side, just below the alternator, where it connects to the metal tube going into the front cover. Disconnect the upper of the two A/C lines at the top of the A/C condensor (one 13mm nut). Remove both hot and cold side charge air cooler tubes (11mm or 7/16" to loosen the clamps). Disconnect the upper rad hose. Remove the two upper rad support brackets (four 8mm bolts in total). Remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the fan shroud to the rad and remove the shroud. Remove the coolant degas bottle (two 8mm bolts). Remove the entire air cleaner assembly (don't forget to remove the airflow restrictor gauge and disconnect the MAF sensor first). Disconnect the main central junction box feed to the driver side battery positive cable. Remove the driver side battery. Remove the battery tray (four 13mm bolts). Disconnect two of the three PCM main connectors (it will be pretty obvious which two). Disconnect the hose at the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir (make sure you have a drain bucket below before doing this because it will be messy). Disconnect all lines (two I think both 18mm) to the to brake hydroboost, except the rubber hose going to power steering fluid reservoir. Disconnect the one of the two power steering fluid lines to the steering box, the one that connects to the power steering fluid cooler (20mm crow's foot or short line wrench needed). Disconnect the heater hose on the driver side, where it junctions into where it connects to the degas bottle. Disconnect all the electrical connectors on the driver side inner fender well. Position all wiring out of the way, in preparation for cab lifting. Disconnect the three ABS HCU lines at the HCU and fold over (you will know which three I'm talking about by looking at them). Last, but not least, Remove the front two cab mount nuts on either side of the charge air cooler (18mm).
-Reposition hoist arms to the four corners of the cab, and have an assistant operate the lift SLOWLY, while someone else keeps watch on the progress of the lift. As the cab is raised, you will be able to address any forgotten disconnects at this point. Once the cab is lifted, proceed with the desired repairs.
Hope this helps.