Looking for an honest 300 HP and a good long torque range.
This will be for primarily a fun driver but with some authority.
2600 lb vehicle, T5 5 sp manual trans, 3:50 to 3:70 rear ratio.
This will be a carbed engine.

What is the magic formula.

I have a core engine out of a '90 F150 that I can use to build from if that is a suitable start.


Any help appreciated.

 

Here's a few combos for you, more low end TQ and a little less peak HP with the Comp cams 35-410-8, more of a balance with the 35-420-8, or something that's biased towards peak horsepower with the Ford E303. All combos are with the GT40 Explorer heads, a performer sized dual plane intake, headers and exhaust. That '90 truck motor will have a flat tappet cam in it but the block is roller ready so a factory roller cam assembly will drop right in.

 

Here is what I've done to all my Ford Small blocks I have rebuilt: weight match pistons(8), and rods(8) to within 1gram of each other, remove all casting flash from rods, crank, and block. Chamfer all oiling system holes, pressure and return, chamfer and remove all casting flash from coolant passages in block, heads, intake, and timing cover. You are better off working with what is already there rather than buying upgrade parts. That is unless you are dripping with money.
Upgrade to a M68HV oil pump and a hardened oil pump shaft, and install a Ford motorsport windage tray, underdrive pulleys are a must, roller rockers, good ignition components are crucial, especially if you plan on turning over 5 grand. Comp Cams Extreme 4X4 cams make tremendous amount of torque, pull very hard to the redline. Having the heads ported and gasket matched will only improve you results. An Edelbrock intake,Holley carb and electric fuel pump(red)and headers should put you close to to your goal. ive had very good results with these improvements.

 

Thanks for all the input.

I just today fell into a 5.0 HO engine and a set of GT40 heads as well as the AOD. All (except heads) from a '87 Mustang.

I think for now I will build this with the stock HO cam, the GT40 heads, a good dual plane manifold and 600 Holey.

Any Idea what HP and Tq. I should see from this.
I'll probably use the AOD and will have to decide how low of gears I can go with and still have nice highway gear with the OD.

 

The AOD has a stupid deep 0.67 overdrive so you could potentially run 3.73 to 4.10's (depending upon tire size) and still have highway cruise rpms at around 2000rpm.

The HO cam with 1.7 will deliver a powerband that looks a lot like the 35-410-8 above.

 

That sounds good.
I would like to run 4:10s if I can keep highway rpms somewhat reasonable.
I will run the numbers through a gear ratio calculator and see what I come up with. I don't suppose I will be able to go too tall with the tires but I wouldn't mind being some above 2000 at 70mph either.

As for the rockers.
Who offers pedestal mount 1.7s and I'm sure some are of less than quality overseas manufacture.

Thanks Richard

 

Ditch the HO cam, you're leaving at least 20hp on the table with that thing. It's so much easier to do it now with the engine on a stand.

302 + HO cam + GT40 heads + 9.0:1 compression = ~270hp. Seen it on a dyno several times, FWIW.

Crane sells 1.7 rockers that were factory equipment on Mustangs, even stamped with the Ford part number. They cost roughly the same as a new roller cam. Add 5hp with rockers or add 20+ with a cam, your call.

 

Only 5hp? I'm so disappointed, as I just installed a set on my 87 5.0 ho. After all the testimony from members of this forum that they felt real seat-of-the pants gains just with these rockers in place of stock. They must have very sensitive butt-o-meters, to be able to notice just 5hp gain! I think that's in the noise of most dynamometers.

On the other hand, if you get a new cam, I would think that for similar prices, you can get more aggressive models that should give you more than 20hp.

 

You guys all make sense.
I guess I am realizing what I have always known.
Pay now or pay later.
It's cheaper to do it right the first time.

If I don't change my mind again I think for now I will stick a set of rings and brngs. in the HO ( the cylinder wallls and pistons look good) and stick it in with the AOD.

I will have to figure what to change the rear out to as it has .273's in it now.

Once it is together and running I can start with the other block and build the engine I want.
I should have a better idea what I need it to do by then.

 

If I were overhauling my 87 HO engine, and were going to replace its rings, I would also go ahead and replace the pistons as well. Ford used low tension piston rings in order to reduce friction, and the forged aluminum pistons are somewhat loose fitting until they warm up. Consequently, the oil consumption is a lot worse than most other cars; I've used almost 2 quarts between every 5000 mile oil change since new.

I would go with some of the new precision fit hypereutectic pistons, like from Sealed Power or Keith Black.

 

I understand what you are saying on the pistons but that is a start back down the slippery slope.
With new pistons it only makes sense to bore it and if that then why not go ahead with cam etc etc.

 

Personally I would never half do and engine overhaul, it's often a waste of time and money. Changing bearings in particular is often just guaranteeing a rod bearing failure soon thereafter because the motion of the engine tends to stretch the rod caps in an egg shape so they wear to match, and installing new bearing without trueing the rods creates pinch points. In the past I have replaced piston rings and ran a motor but it's just a bandaid, if you're ripping it all apart do it right.