Brake and suspention question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Brake and suspention question
Im trying to get a nut off for my rear piston. the bleader is rounded and so is 1 of the bolts holding it on. About the only thing i can think of is to get a dremel in there and grind the bolt off... the other side cam loose just fine. tried heat and tried penitrating oil. http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/9...akcilinder.jpg
I was wondering if the cracking on the shackles shown = bad or if there was some other way I would have to test to see if they were bad.
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3691/shackel1.jpg
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/3...26modified.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7...27modified.jpg
also the front swaybar is cracked while the rear has decintigrated. 1 is the front still good or does it need to be replaced. 2 what does having the sway bar in that condition do to the ride? http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3559/sway1.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5...25modified.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/5...23modified.jpg
final question when you loose a front tire while driving what/how does it need to be inspected afterwords? the ride doesnt quite feal right. I wouldent be suprised if the shock got killed but not sure how to tell. or if other things are broken.
I was wondering if the cracking on the shackles shown = bad or if there was some other way I would have to test to see if they were bad.
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3691/shackel1.jpg
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/3...26modified.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7...27modified.jpg
also the front swaybar is cracked while the rear has decintigrated. 1 is the front still good or does it need to be replaced. 2 what does having the sway bar in that condition do to the ride? http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3559/sway1.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5...25modified.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/5...23modified.jpg
final question when you loose a front tire while driving what/how does it need to be inspected afterwords? the ride doesnt quite feal right. I wouldent be suprised if the shock got killed but not sure how to tell. or if other things are broken.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Wheel cylinder: I would drill it out from the back. Use a drill bit the same size as the hole in the backing plate for the cylinder. A dremel would work well too. If you have a welder, you can try welding a nut onto the end of the bolt but clean all the rust off first.
Spring bushings: need to be replaced. It's a bear of a job and involves a lot of torching, cutting, drilling, and swearing. Especially on a rust belt truck like yours.
Swaybar bushings: You can just buy a bushing replacement kit and change yours out. No big deal. The fronts look fine, a little cracking is normal. The rears are completely shot though. I would replace them but it's not critical.
Losing a tire: I would take it to an alignment shop and have it aligned. Tell them what happened and why you are there and ask them to look out for any broken or bent suspension parts.
Spring bushings: need to be replaced. It's a bear of a job and involves a lot of torching, cutting, drilling, and swearing. Especially on a rust belt truck like yours.
Swaybar bushings: You can just buy a bushing replacement kit and change yours out. No big deal. The fronts look fine, a little cracking is normal. The rears are completely shot though. I would replace them but it's not critical.
Losing a tire: I would take it to an alignment shop and have it aligned. Tell them what happened and why you are there and ask them to look out for any broken or bent suspension parts.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
I appriciate the thoughts I duno if i can get a drill in there 
springs are in the way
<br/> Hopefully the bushings will help with the ride some. Heh im a firm believer in industrial grinders solve rusted bolts
had to do that with my cars strut that was supposedly changed by a garage. <br/>
never would have thought about having them check it on an alignment.
springs are in the way <br/> Hopefully the bushings will help with the ride some. Heh im a firm believer in industrial grinders solve rusted bolts
had to do that with my cars strut that was supposedly changed by a garage. <br/>never would have thought about having them check it on an alignment.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 9
From: Acworth, GA
You really should replace all of your suspension bushings, it will ride like a new truck. I just did all of mine (next are the body bushings). I changed mine to polyurethane ones. There are a couple of threads in here about changing bushings. You might try using a tool of this type; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...oval-tool.html . I fabricated a similar one using a one foot piece of 1/2" all thread, some grade 8 nuts and fender washers and a galvanized coupling. It was somewhat of a job, although I think the radius arm bushings were the most difficult of them all. But, I have to admit that they were all much easier to replace than I had anticipated. And I am very pleased with how well it rides and handles now.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 9
From: Acworth, GA
I built mine without a welder. I used a 12" length of 1/2" all-thread, grade 8 nuts, grade 8 fender washers, larger washers, a black pipe or galvanized coupling ( sized according to need; slightly larger than the bushing), I used a floor stand off plate with a 1/2" hole through the center as a backing on the coupling, then ran the all-thread through and put a washer and a nut on it, and used a 1/2" drive socket (sized slightly smaller than the bushing) on the other end. I used a little grease on the all-thread, and used two wrenches to press the bushings out. Then used almost the same technique in reverse to install the new ones.
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