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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Ignition problems, no spark

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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 10:36 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mox-ct
I heard some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system.

I did catch a brief flickering of the light.

This is what I think I have:

KOER 31 PFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.

The thing that bothers me is the above code was presented twice.

Although I did get the 6 second pause and the single separator blink and another 6 second pause.

CM 14 Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

CM 18 IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded.

CM 15 EEC battery powered Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed.

CM 19 Cylinder Identification CID circuit failure.

So, what does all this mean???
Sometimes I'm a bonehead. After replacing the TFI module I didn't disconnect the battery and therefore the computer didn't know to dump the related codes.

With that said, I removed the negative wire from the battery for several minutes and then reconnected it and tried to start the engine. Still nothing, it cranks over nice but won't start. At first it sputtered, but still nothing. So I redid the codes and came up with some different codes.

3 1 / 3 1 // 1 // 1 4 / 1 4 /

That means:

KOER 31 PFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.

CM 14 Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

OK, now what does this mean???
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #17  
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14 is the bad one. You are losing the signal from the distributor(PIP signal).

The guy in the book says this is the second terminal from the bottom on the six terminal connector(darkblue).

He says unplug the connector on the dist module, unplug the connector on the coil, and then disconnect the 60 pin connector on the computer under the dash. Then take a ohmmeter and read the PIP terminal from the connector to ground. It should read open. If it does, then wiggle it around while taking the reading to make sure this wire is not shorted to ground. I believe this wire is shielded, and there have been cases where the shield on the end of the wire shorts against the PIP wire.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #18  
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Dave,
Thanks for your reply. I do have a multimeter and can figure that one out.

Q: Where are you getting your info??? On line??? Can you share a website with me so I can also look at this stuff too??? It would be easier for me, then I wouldn't have to wait and hope to get an answer.

Thanks again for the help, I'll keep you posted.

Rich
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #19  
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I am getting my info from "How to Tune and Modify Ford Fuel Injection" by Ben Watson. Do a google search on this number "isbn 0-87938-621-5". This is a very good book and worth the investment if you are going to do your own work on a fuel injected truck.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 06:10 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I am getting my info from "How to Tune and Modify Ford Fuel Injection" by Ben Watson. Do a google search on this number "isbn 0-87938-621-5". This is a very good book and worth the investment if you are going to do your own work on a fuel injected truck.
Amazon.com here I come!!!

Thanks for the tip

Placed order already and should arrive in 4 days!!!
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 09:06 PM
  #21  
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Checked for a short to ground on PIP, didn't find anything. Going to do continuity test on the new TFI Module I installed. Just for clarification, the PIP is the top conductor on the TFI Module. http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,593.0.html

Anything else I should be looking at???
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 10:57 PM
  #22  
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Good thread mox...I'm watching it with interest because its similar to the issues I'm running into.

Here is a link for another good comparison picture between the TFI modules:

http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/compare_TFIs.gif

Our trucks both have the gray one, 2nd from the top.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 06:39 AM
  #23  
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I brought both the old and new TFI modules to work for testing. The old one was bad (Ground to PIP In), the new one is still good. I'm planning on trying some of the tests on here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._worksheet.jpg

and here:

SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

When I get home from work later in the day.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 07:35 PM
  #24  
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Tested the new and old TFI module. The old one was bad Ground to PIP In.
The new one was still good. Didn't get a chance to do any more testing on the truck today. Was called back to work for a couple of hours after already working 10 hours. Maybe tomorrow.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 07:00 PM
  #25  
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Received the book "How to tune & modify Ford Fuel Injection". Nice book and will become very useful.

I went straight to the Code 14 troubleshooting. I like the last paragraph: If the system passes the continuous monitor test, you have reached an impasse: The problem that generated the code 14 is intermittent and is not currently presenting itself. Put everything back together and erase the code.

How do I ERASE the Code???????
 
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #26  
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Disconnect the battery for a minute or two.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 01:27 AM
  #27  
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Purchased a remanufactured distributor today, going to try that when I have time. Working the nightshift 6pm to 6am. Not much time after sleeping, just wake up and go back to work.

Just wanted to let anyone watching this thread that I haven't given up yet.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 07:34 PM
  #28  
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Tonight will be my last night on this evening shift. sometime tomorrow I will try the new distributor. Give you an update then.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 12:40 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for the update Mox. I hope the distributor install goes smoothly for you. Remember to install it on the TDC of the intake stroke instead of the exhaust one. I ran into that problem when I did mine.

Another tip is that after its installed, make sure you have room to move it to the left for fine tune adjustment of the basic timing (spout wire disconnected). Likely, you'll need to move it to the left to get the initial timing correct.

One other thing...the rotor in the distributor goes counterclockwise so keep that in mind when the manual tells you to 'lead' it during installation. (The rotor moves forward of its starting place when the distributor is being seated. Without the proper lead, the rotor may be pointing past or forward of the #1 plug wire.)
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 05:53 AM
  #30  
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Thanks for all in tips. It's always good to have all that information fresh in my head when installing the distributor.
 
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