Part help
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Great Falls, MT
Part help
Ok, so I'm still just learning about parts and junk and I have some questions.
I have a 73 390, what parts could i get for it for cheap?
Can you get more power from putting on bigger/smaller heads?
Whats the max I could bore it without it being supersoniced (???i think thats the word???) and how much would it cost me?
And is it possible to swap out the three different grilles that came from factory?
I have a 73 390, what parts could i get for it for cheap?
Can you get more power from putting on bigger/smaller heads?
Whats the max I could bore it without it being supersoniced (???i think thats the word???) and how much would it cost me?
And is it possible to swap out the three different grilles that came from factory?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2009
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The 390 in stock form is already a power house.
The cylinders can only hold so much air and fuel.
Fuel is not a problem
The only problem is AIR
That's why guys put turbochargers on their engines
First, are you POSITIVE that is a 390 and not a 360 ?
Did you check the number on the crankshft or measure the stroke?
Any performance parts can be found by googling Ford Motorsports or Ford Racing
And remember those engine used Premium fuel *98 Octane*
Unless you buy avgas where you going to fill it up ?
The cylinders can only hold so much air and fuel.
Fuel is not a problem
The only problem is AIR
That's why guys put turbochargers on their engines
First, are you POSITIVE that is a 390 and not a 360 ?
Did you check the number on the crankshft or measure the stroke?
Any performance parts can be found by googling Ford Motorsports or Ford Racing
And remember those engine used Premium fuel *98 Octane*
Unless you buy avgas where you going to fill it up ?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
"Cheap" is a relative term. You didn't state your intended use for the engine and truck so I'll go with generalizations:
With that said, the engine is basically an air pump. The more air (and commensurate amount of fuel) and combustion efficiency will realize power gains.
IMO - Unless your end use is high RPM for which the 390 is not really intended, the least costly and easiest horsepower results from a 650 cfm 4 bbl, dual plane intake, and long tube headers. High RPM go with a 750 to 800 cfm 4 bbl on a single plane or high riser intake, and headers. Synthetic lubricants are worth a few HP. Let's call that Stage 1.
Stage 2: Camshaft + ported & polished heads or aftermarket aluminum heads.
Stage 2.5: Higher ratio rockers and aftermarket rockershafts.
Stage 3: 10:1 forged pistons, ARP hardware
Stage 3.5: Nitrous.
Stage 4: Survival Motorpsorts Stroker Kit.
Stage 5: Forced Induction (Turbo/supercharger)
With that said, the engine is basically an air pump. The more air (and commensurate amount of fuel) and combustion efficiency will realize power gains.
IMO - Unless your end use is high RPM for which the 390 is not really intended, the least costly and easiest horsepower results from a 650 cfm 4 bbl, dual plane intake, and long tube headers. High RPM go with a 750 to 800 cfm 4 bbl on a single plane or high riser intake, and headers. Synthetic lubricants are worth a few HP. Let's call that Stage 1.
Stage 2: Camshaft + ported & polished heads or aftermarket aluminum heads.
Stage 2.5: Higher ratio rockers and aftermarket rockershafts.
Stage 3: 10:1 forged pistons, ARP hardware
Stage 3.5: Nitrous.
Stage 4: Survival Motorpsorts Stroker Kit.
Stage 5: Forced Induction (Turbo/supercharger)
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There is no higher ratio rocker arms, adjustable rockers are 1.76, non adjustables are 1.73. In essense, not even the thickness of a fly's butt hair.
Although you have to be carefull buying after market rocker arms, some are 1.75 and some older Harland Sharps are 1.6.
Aftermarket shafts with end stands are just an excellent idea with FE engines, stock or hot, it makes good sense.
Josh
Although you have to be carefull buying after market rocker arms, some are 1.75 and some older Harland Sharps are 1.6.
Aftermarket shafts with end stands are just an excellent idea with FE engines, stock or hot, it makes good sense.
Josh
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 409
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From: Great Falls, MT
"Cheap" is a relative term. You didn't state your intended use for the engine and truck so I'll go with generalizations:
With that said, the engine is basically an air pump. The more air (and commensurate amount of fuel) and combustion efficiency will realize power gains.
IMO - Unless your end use is high RPM for which the 390 is not really intended, the least costly and easiest horsepower results from a 650 cfm 4 bbl, dual plane intake, and long tube headers. High RPM go with a 750 to 800 cfm 4 bbl on a single plane or high riser intake, and headers. Synthetic lubricants are worth a few HP. Let's call that Stage 1.
Stage 2: Camshaft + ported & polished heads or aftermarket aluminum heads.
Stage 2.5: Higher ratio rockers and aftermarket rockershafts.
Stage 3: 10:1 forged pistons, ARP hardware
Stage 3.5: Nitrous.
Stage 4: Survival Motorpsorts Stroker Kit.
Stage 5: Forced Induction (Turbo/supercharger)
With that said, the engine is basically an air pump. The more air (and commensurate amount of fuel) and combustion efficiency will realize power gains.
IMO - Unless your end use is high RPM for which the 390 is not really intended, the least costly and easiest horsepower results from a 650 cfm 4 bbl, dual plane intake, and long tube headers. High RPM go with a 750 to 800 cfm 4 bbl on a single plane or high riser intake, and headers. Synthetic lubricants are worth a few HP. Let's call that Stage 1.
Stage 2: Camshaft + ported & polished heads or aftermarket aluminum heads.
Stage 2.5: Higher ratio rockers and aftermarket rockershafts.
Stage 3: 10:1 forged pistons, ARP hardware
Stage 3.5: Nitrous.
Stage 4: Survival Motorpsorts Stroker Kit.
Stage 5: Forced Induction (Turbo/supercharger)
steponit
And my 390 is a 73, and the guy before me didnt say anything about high octane gas, and I've been just burning the cheapest I can get. If I have to I'll start using 98 but I'd like to be sure. So are you absolutely positive it needs 98oct?
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Elder User
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My mistake ..sorry
I conferred with someone else, he said the 71 390 used regular gasoline so the 73 390 2v should be the same
There were different 390's
some used regular and some used premium
Check your compression ratio
I conferred with someone else, he said the 71 390 used regular gasoline so the 73 390 2v should be the same
There were different 390's
some used regular and some used premium
Check your compression ratio
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Fleet Owner
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From: NorCal
Bullitt390 - Thanks for the details on rocker ratios.
BigDom - You're welcome. However, the progression of stages above is not a step-by-step plan because what upgrades/parts are done will affect the parts & specs that were done in the previous stage. For example, high compression pistons (>10:1) will likely be incompatible with forced induction systems so you might be ending up buying parts twice - not good if you're watching the budget. That's why I'm a big advocate for outlining the end use and overall vision for the vehicle in which the engine will be installed and then plotting a course (engine/suspension/brakes/conveniences) to reach the goal.
IMO, the best bang for the buck is the carb/cam/intake/headers combination. A well matched system will give you alot satisfaction in terms of driveability, use, and of course return on dollars spent. Nitrous (small shots!) systems can provide very good dollar-per-HP return.
BigDom - You're welcome. However, the progression of stages above is not a step-by-step plan because what upgrades/parts are done will affect the parts & specs that were done in the previous stage. For example, high compression pistons (>10:1) will likely be incompatible with forced induction systems so you might be ending up buying parts twice - not good if you're watching the budget. That's why I'm a big advocate for outlining the end use and overall vision for the vehicle in which the engine will be installed and then plotting a course (engine/suspension/brakes/conveniences) to reach the goal.
IMO, the best bang for the buck is the carb/cam/intake/headers combination. A well matched system will give you alot satisfaction in terms of driveability, use, and of course return on dollars spent. Nitrous (small shots!) systems can provide very good dollar-per-HP return.