The setup on mine is almost as if it should be dual exhaust from the factory, remove the Y pipe and carry it back.

 

I'm late to this party hope what I bring isn't redundant........

Plugs are an issue with ANY aluminum headed engine, badge or brand has no real bearing on this. These vans in general are PITA changing plugs so after surveying the job I too hired it out. Having also heard the horror stories of thrown plugs a bit of research and talking with real mechanics (not usually dealership types) over torquing during installation, cross threading tend to be the biggest reason here. Ford specifies a nickel based anti-sieze compound be used on plug threads, torque specs given huge priority as well. FWIW in conversation with a dealership my parts guy put me on hold when asked about Ford's brand of A-S finally returning to tell me, verbatin: "Hey man---my tech here says (screw) that shyte---none of them use it!!" Maybe they don't have access to Ford manuals, TSB's, directives and so on and so forth?? Yeah---dealerships aren't for me!

Plugs in my previously owned '00 E250 with 230K miles when changed were all removed with a 1/4" drive ratchet/socket, re-installed with the same too. Depending on your budget I'd suggest going with higher voltage C-O-P's as well----already there, makes sense labor wise. Granatelli has a kit with guaranteed 25K volts (45K available) for about $200 complete. Each C-O-P from Ford is about $80 each, boots NOT included! Of course now I have eight great condition C-O-P's laying around gathering dust!

Changing plugs on these things is one of the most aggravating and time sucking chores I've ever seen! However if the current engine is still around once they've hit 50K they're outta there without hesitation. While I will replace eng/trans with new/gently used & tested sometime soon performance and gas mileage dictates it be done regardless the pain it is.

I'd also suggest getting a decent scanner--they're all over FleaBay in various price ranges. They might be useful---a full blown factory service manual on CD or printed form might be there as well. I've purchased numerous factory service items there, always gently used if used at all.

Hope this adds something------carry on VanMates!

 

Definitely appreciate the viewpoints! This is a really strange set of issues I have so Any help is appreciated!
I had to drive the van yesterday and going between 35-45 with minimal gas pedal, it wants to shake you from the seat. Hit the gas, all good. I do wonder if maybe the trans has an issue even though it shifts fine. I am going to get a couple other vehicles done and seriously rip into this van.

 

Sounds like you may just have a coil going out on it. My van was doing that and new coils cleared it right up. Unfortunately there is no good way to bench test these coils. The dealership can stress test them on the vehicle and tell you which ones are weak, but that costs. Some people buy a couple new coils and just swap the new one around until the problem gets better. I took the high road and ordered new ones and replaced them all.

 

Jumped the gun with my reply...never mind.

 

Yeah when messing around in the confines of a van, its best to spend the extra buck and get stuff done. I will look into this. Thanks much!!

 

I recently changed the plugs on a 2000 5.4 and it isn't really that hard. First thing you do is carve all the skin off your knuckles and write down all your best dirty words. The skin your gonna' lose anyway and the words, you'll need em'. Anyway, after I finished and it was running like new I went for a ride and it started missin again, sluggish, smokin' from running rich and wanted to stall. On the drivers side of the engine there a steel tube high up, just under the dash panel that transports hot exhaust gas back to the intake for emissions. Anyway, there are two injector wires in plastic conduit near the tube. They came into contact with it, melted the insulation and grounded out an injector. This caused that cylinder to load up, not fire and when I pulled them loose, taped them up and relocated them it ran perfectly. Mine was acting just as you describe. Pull the doghouse and check it out and while it's off check all the injector plugs and vacuum tubes. Worth a look! Good luck.

 

I had a Ford Tech get ahold of me. And his idea was that the Overdrive wasn't shifting in/out like it should. Apprantly the plug to the module is known for corroding. So I tried toggling the OD switch while driving and it did make some difference. So I am into trying to deal with that. BUT,,, the problem that remains is a slightly rough idle and HORRIBLE gas mileage-I'm talking like 10-11 mpg. So would the MAF or Fuel rails or both be what to look at? I'm not taking on spark plugs til all else is ruled out.

 

If maintenance is done (fuel, air, electricity, vacuum, transm service, Differential service), you should pull codes. I am guessing you have the 4R100 transmission (successor to the E4OD) which is notorious for the OD light flashing. It could be a million things. 95% of the case these are electrical problems (bad sensor, or bad wires, corroded harnesses). I for certain have suffered my share of that stupid blink.

 

My van is not throwing a single code,,, this is why I am going through such daignostic crap with it,

 

If the OD light is flashing -- very likely codes will not be read by universal ODBII readers, but it will throw a Manufacturer's specific DTC. This can be read by more advanced readers.