Lucas stabilizer
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Lucas stabilizer
What are everyones thoughts on running a little Lucas with the oil?
I have the cold/warm start knock, hell, seems like it is every time that I start it after it sits for more than a half hour. I have been using the Motorcraft filter w/ drain back valve, and am on my second oil change of Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20. I keep hearing about not going to thicker oil, going to thicker oil, IDK. I do know that the rattle annoys the HELL out of me, and it is now so often that the wife even notices it (she doesn't notice anything automotive related, unless I spend money on something, LOL!)
Let me know what everyone thinks, btw, noice goes away immediately with oil pressure, so thats why I was thinking something a little thicker as a addative.
I have the cold/warm start knock, hell, seems like it is every time that I start it after it sits for more than a half hour. I have been using the Motorcraft filter w/ drain back valve, and am on my second oil change of Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20. I keep hearing about not going to thicker oil, going to thicker oil, IDK. I do know that the rattle annoys the HELL out of me, and it is now so often that the wife even notices it (she doesn't notice anything automotive related, unless I spend money on something, LOL!)
Let me know what everyone thinks, btw, noice goes away immediately with oil pressure, so thats why I was thinking something a little thicker as a addative.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
I use the Lucas in my lawnmower (slinger) and thats it. Here is a good article on the Lucas stabilizer. What about Additives?
The oil pressure should jump up immediatly after the engine starts. You could go to a 5w-30 no problem but I doubt that it would solve your issue. Its hard to say what the noise is,
The oil pressure should jump up immediatly after the engine starts. You could go to a 5w-30 no problem but I doubt that it would solve your issue. Its hard to say what the noise is,
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
Maybe try to run some 5w-30 Pennsoil Platinum(full synthetic) and an 820S MC filter next time. Pennzoil Plat isn't too expensive but is a very good oil in both the lubricating and cleaning departments. On some of the oil forums people have noticed quite a bit less valvetrain noise with it.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
DO NOT bother. Any "good" brand-name oil will be "stable" enough until your next oil change, unless you're leaving the stuff in there for years and 10's of thousands of miles.
My brother-in-law used that stuff in two different engines. One was an I6-300 with 90K miles that two weeks later spun a MAIN bearing, The other was a 351W with around 175K miles that experienced total oil pressure loss a few weeks later. The 351W survived because it was so loose to begin with. The I6 needed to be rebuilt.
I wouldn't use that stuff if you paid me to. I can't imagine why you would need a "stabilizer" unless you were leaving the oil in the engine for years.
Anyway, (/snake-oil rant over)
As for your "knock" - could it be timing chain related? Can you use a stethoscope/screw-driver/piece-of-wood-to-the-ear to determine if it's inside the timing cover?
My brother-in-law used that stuff in two different engines. One was an I6-300 with 90K miles that two weeks later spun a MAIN bearing, The other was a 351W with around 175K miles that experienced total oil pressure loss a few weeks later. The 351W survived because it was so loose to begin with. The I6 needed to be rebuilt.
I wouldn't use that stuff if you paid me to. I can't imagine why you would need a "stabilizer" unless you were leaving the oil in the engine for years.
Anyway, (/snake-oil rant over)
As for your "knock" - could it be timing chain related? Can you use a stethoscope/screw-driver/piece-of-wood-to-the-ear to determine if it's inside the timing cover?
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I do have a stethascope, but generally don't have a helper around when I am trying to isolate something. I know the early 4.6 (non-pi) motors had issues with timing chain rail adjusters, but thought that they had been figured out by the time that the pi motors came along. is this something to worry about, or is it just going to be a annoyance?
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That stuff is perfect for your application. If it's old and loose it will fill the loose spots with thick oil. If the engine is bad then it will only slow it's death. It's really good on marine engines and tractors that sit because when the oil runs off of the components it leaves behing a thin layer of grease to provide lube untill the oil can get back up to them.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Denver, CO
That "knock" you describe has been present with all my "mod" motors. 00 F250 V10, 00 Ex V10, and 04 Mustang GT. With my GT running Royal Purple stopped it. My F250 always got MC 5w-20 and 820s, the Ex I have tried many different oil brands and additives, nothing has helped. My Ex is almost up to 150,000 and never had a problem with it so I just leave it alone.
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Yeah, I have had it almost a year, and have been using the 5w-20 MC blend and the 820s filter since I first got it. Seemed as though it helped at first, but now it seems as though it is all the time. I'm not too concerned, as the motor runs fine, and everything is normal on all the gauges.
Thanks for the advice all
Thanks for the advice all
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I never run a full quart of the stuff like they suggest, but in the winter, I add a little to help thicken it up. It does seem like it helps oil stick to metal a bit better, but I'm not going to take 1 good quart of oil out to put it in. Just a little as an additive, like 1/4 or something.
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