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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

msd mechanical advance question

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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 12:27 AM
  #31  
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Hope you plan on new chain and sprockets while you have it apart.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 08:11 AM
  #32  
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From: Perry Florida
yea the new timing set is sposed to be here today at 4, i got the one for a 95 f350(straight up double roller), and the little key for the balancer is good. would the timing chain being as loose as it is cause me to get false timing readings?, its got about 3 inches of slop in it.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #33  
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From: Perry Florida
i wish i could figure this out
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #34  
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From: Perry Florida
ok i got the new timing set and all on now but it still runs weird. it will idle at 5-10 btdc but i seems to run a hell of a lot better at 18-30 btdc. so what could be possibly happening to cause this now? i got the timing set for a 95 f350, its a double roller straight up.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #35  
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Your truck was designed with a vacuum advance in mind. Is the engine stock otherwise? IE, are you running the stock cam with a Holley 4180?

I'd bet your idle circuit would need to be re-tuned to compensate for the ignition.

With the timing set at 8*, a vac advance would pull you up to 30, raise the idle and burn fuel a bit differently.

My bet is that the mixture is off at idle. Can you lock the timing at 8-10* and adjust the mixture?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #36  
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On most Fords, the vacuum advance doesn't work at idle, since it's hooked to a ported vacuum source on the carb.

A engine will run fine with the vacuum advance disconnected, it's just used to improve engine efficiency at part throttle conditions(fuel mileage).
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
On most Fords, the vacuum advance doesn't work at idle, since it's hooked to a ported vacuum source on the carb.

A engine will run fine with the vacuum advance disconnected, it's just used to improve engine efficiency at part throttle conditions(fuel mileage).
Ported vacuum will have some vacuum at idle, more at cruise, and next to none at WOT - so the vacuum advance most certainly will have en effect.

His issues sounds like they're more than just timing though. If the timing is locked and true at 8-10* and he still has a bad idle, he should be looking elsewhere.

Could be EGR valve hanging open (if the truck still has one) or any number of carb issues.

Also, plugs, wires, cap, rotor could be suspect.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #38  
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From: Perry Florida
i have a big cam and a holley 4150 carb. also new ford racing 9mm wires msd distributer, box, coil all ignition is brand new
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 10:59 PM
  #39  
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From: Perry Florida
tomorow im going to do a compression test (what #s should i look for?) and replace the intake gasket and carb gaskets (maybe part of the problem?). but should i get the valley pan type gasket or the separate type? whats the difference and what are the pros and cons of each? also what are the tourqe specs and procedure for tourquing down the intake manifold? and should i use rtv on the intake gaskets?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:17 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Barkin 40s
tomorow im going to do a compression test (what #s should i look for?) and replace the intake gasket and carb gaskets (maybe part of the problem?). but should i get the valley pan type gasket or the separate type? whats the difference and what are the pros and cons of each? also what are the tourqe specs and procedure for tourquing down the intake manifold? and should i use rtv on the intake gaskets?
Thin coat of RTV for the gaskets should be all right, but you definitely should use RTV at the ends.

The carb gasket could very well help, if it's currently leaking air.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:29 PM
  #41  
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From: Perry Florida
i did spray a bunch of starting fluid around the manifold and carb gaskets with no changes but i also sprayed some straight in the carb and it didnt even effect anything by doing that. but i looked at the can and it didnt even have ether in the ingredients so i guess i got the cheap brand lol but could these gaskets even be causing these conditions?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 08:39 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Thin coat of RTV for the gaskets should be all right, but you definitely should use RTV at the ends.

The carb gasket could very well help, if it's currently leaking air.
I hate to keep disagreeing with you, but I would not use RTV around any gasket area that seals fuel. On the intake you should use just a thin smear of RTV around the water ports, and a thick bead on each end works well instead of using the rubber seals, but I would not put any RTV around the air/fuel intake ports. RTV will turn gummy and disintegrate in the presence of gasoline.

If you use a metal pan gasket and want to use some sort of sealer around the air/fuel ports, you can use permatex type sealer.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 09:58 AM
  #43  
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From: Perry Florida
ok what kind of rtv should i use? black, copper, blue?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 10:18 AM
  #44  
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permatex ultra black is my favorite. The also make "The right stuff" I think it's the same product in an aerosol can.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I hate to keep disagreeing with you,
No harm done here... You've probably pulled a lot more intakes than I have. Last one I did I actually used gask-a-cinch to hold it in place while the intake went down.

Do the intake bolts on the 460 have blind holes that can leak oil like small block Chevies? (I haven't had the honor of pulling the intake on my 460 yet...)
 
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