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I don't know what transmissions they have, but they are both autos. Heck, I don't even know what t-cases they used. Most of my working knowledge is off of the 70's trucks, can't say I know a great many details of these years.
If both are 4x4 the swap will be no problem, your M5 Mazda manual will fit with no problems in the Bronco, you'll probably need to change the driveshaft, you'll also need the the device that overrides the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor), it makes the ECU think the auto (wich you've taken out) is in either Neutral or Drive, letting you drive around using your swapped manual. You'll probably have a Borg Wagner 1356 as a t-case there, those are good units.
On edit: Yohooo! 1000 posts!
Last edited by Encho; Jul 24, 2010 at 07:19 PM.
Reason: 1000 posts!
I'm sorry maybe I didn't post it right, but both these trucks have auto trans in them. I'm just thinking about changing the T-case. Well to be more accurate I am stripping out what is left of the wrecked 95 F150 and I am wondering if I should keep the T-case.
I am looking to buy a Bronco very soon, if I can find one I like for the right price. Most have that push button crap, and I'm hoping to swap out the auto t-case for the manual T-case I have.
Yeah, i think T-cases will swap too, no problem, btw, i have the "push button crap" and it has worked very well for 18 years now, the only weak link could be the auto hubs, and those are easily replaced with manuals from Warn or Mile Marker.
The short answer is yes, the T-cases should be the same units. The Borg-Warner 1356 manual will directly replace its electronically shifted counterpart. You will have to cut the carpet, remove the cover plate and install the shift boot and linkage if you install the manual unit into a truck that had the electronic one. The nice thing is if they both have automatic transmissions (E4OD) the shift linkage for the manual t-case will work in either truck. The pushbuttons will no longer work and you will need to find the 4WD indicator wiring and connector in the harness if you want the 4WD indicator to light up on the dashboard in the truck that had the automatic t-case when you put the manual in. All of this is fairly straight forward and a direct swap.
...btw, i have the "push button crap" and it has worked very well for 18 years now...
I am sorry if you took offense to my wording, I don't like push button 4X4 as I have seen too many failures of one kind or another.
Originally Posted by greystreak92
you will need to find the 4WD indicator wiring and connector in the harness if you want the 4WD indicator to light up on the dashboard
could you elaborate on this a little more? Is this something that will already be there or something I have to use from the donor? Will it be a plug and play or something I would need to splice in?
Thanks I've learned a lot about these trucks over the last few days reading old post and asking questions.
If you want the dashboard 4WD indicator to light up when you put the manual unit into 4WD then you will have to trace back through the wiring harness in the truck that HAD the electronic t-case and find a small two-wire connector that is most likely taped up in the portion of the harness that runs down to the t-case. You will find a matching connector on the side of the manual 1356 t-case. Connecting these two will allow the indicator on the dashboard to function. There is some conjecture that this must be connected so that the computer "knows" that the truck is in 4WD. I have had a manual 1356 in my 93 without this connection made for three years and had no ill effects from it. I swapped to a manual t-case from the electronic one that long ago.
That is great to hear. So all I need to do is to tape up & "hide" all of the electrical connectors off of the electric shift T-case system, and from all outward appearances it will look as if it came with a manual. Then if for some reason it ever needed to be put back to factory specs everything is there and unmolested (other than the hole in the carpet and so long as I keep all the old parts).
In reading old posts(I did use the search) I kept reading about some difference in the tail shaft and output shaft between truck and Bronco cases. Being as no one has said anything abut this I assume that this not an issue by 95/96.
Thanks again, the knowledge that one can gain here never stops.
Ford changed the output to the rear drive shaft in the mid 80's from the simple u-joint yoke to a flat flange with a u-joint yoke and when they did, the diameter of the output shaft changed enough to be a nuisance but your model years should not be affected by this.
Thank you, I'm very glad you got back to me. I am getting ready to go look at the 96 Bronco this morning, and at least now I know I can change the T-case in it. I hope it's better than the last couple I looked at.
I have had both styles. (auto in my 88' and manual in my 90') I prefur the manual also. BUT, I hardly think its worth the trouble to swap a good auto for a manual. Just keep the spare t-case and change it, when and if, the auto fails.
I have had both styles. (auto in my 88' and manual in my 90') I prefur the manual also. BUT, I hardly think its worth the trouble to swap a good auto for a manual. Just keep the spare t-case and change it, when and if, the auto fails.
This sounds good, but one problem. The auto T-case is only going to fail when needed, and that is when it is cold and snow on the ground. The worst time to be swapping T-cases. On the other had I could take a nice cool fall day, when I'm in no hurry, not freezing to death, and in desperate need of 4X4 swap everything out and have no worries about what old man winter has in store.
Also I know how my luck runs. I have no luck, I have negative luck. For me it won't be if it fails, but when and where. But this academic at the moment, as I haven't found a Bronco to buy yet.
The main thing that fails on a t-case is the shift forks. You may be wise to split the case and look at the plastic inserts to make sure they arnt warn down. These forks are common to both style cases. The only thing that can fail unique to the auto is the shift motor and/or assocaited wiring. If you remove three bolts and unplug the motor, you can shift the t-case with a visegrip. Its pretty eazy. But you do have to crawl under the truck. Sometimes the manual shift linkage can pop apart and you have to crawl under the truck for that also. Both of these instances are very rare. But if your luck is that bad, you will change the cases and then have your shift linkage pop off in a snow storm! LOL I'm not making fun of you, Ive had some of that nagitive luck also.
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