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I took the truck down to the parts store and when I was ready to leave, I had a heck of a time getting the 55 to start. After waiting about 20 minutes and a few turns, it fired up. Vapor lock? Coil? It's hot in Florida! I am running the stock 223 6 and also wanted to metion that a majority of the fuel line from the fuel pump to carb is rubber fuel injection hose which wraps around the front of the engine with part of it resting below the top radiator hose. Maybe I should change this out with more steel line running instead. This problem has only occured a couple of times when it is real hot but would like to make it go away. Appreciate any guidance.
The sixes usually do not vapor lock, I had the same trouble. My problem was the coil. If you have this trouble again then put some ice on the coil and if it fires up after you cool the coil then that is your problem.
It sounds like you know your trouble is likely the routing of your fuel line. Why would you have so much rubber hose, why does it route clear around in front of the engine, and why would you attach it to your hot rad hoses? All that sounds like you're asking for trouble, imho.
It sounds like you know your trouble is likely the routing of your fuel line. Why would you have so much rubber hose, why does it route clear around in front of the engine, and why would you attach it to your hot rad hoses? All that sounds like you're asking for trouble, imho.
I believe that's the stock route, but in metal line supported in clips.
Modern gas just doesn't like mechanical fuel pumps. It is more aromatic (vaporizes easier) and face it, these engines used to vapor lock back in the day. Keeping the tank full helps, since the pump doesn't have to lift the gas up as high.
You should do it up in metal line regardless, but you'll never regret putting in a good electric pump with a good regulator.
I believe that's the stock route, but in metal line supported in clips.
Modern gas just doesn't like mechanical fuel pumps. It is more aromatic (vaporizes easier) and face it, these engines used to vapor lock back in the day. Keeping the tank full helps, since the pump doesn't have to lift the gas up as high.
You should do it up in metal line regardless, but you'll never regret putting in a good electric pump with a good regulator.
I think that is exactly what is happening. I let idle in my garage today and after about 10 minutes, it quit. When I looked at the glass bowl on my Holley 1904, it was empty. Waited about ten minutes and then poured a little gas in the carb and it fired back up and the fuel pump was pumping again.
I think I am sold on switching to a 6 volt electric fuel pump. Are block-off plates available if I remove the stock fuel pump? With these Holley 1 barels, what would be a good pressure regulator setting? Thanks.
I doubt it vapor locked under those conditions, but an electric pump will cure all ills!
You can make a block off plate out of 1/4" aluminum plate (looks like chrome! and costs little). You'll want a good regulator because Holleys like 2 - 2.5 psi. I am using the Holley 12-804 which is at AutoZone and elsewhere (these used to be $18!!!). From what I've heard, the Carter fuel pumps are the way to go for 6v.
I doubt it vapor locked under those conditions, but an electric pump will cure all ills!
You can make a block off plate out of 1/4" aluminum plate (looks like chrome! and costs little). You'll want a good regulator because Holleys like 2 - 2.5 psi. I am using the Holley 12-804 which is at AutoZone and elsewhere (these used to be $18!!!). From what I've heard, the Carter fuel pumps are the way to go for 6v.
Thank you very much for the info. I removed the gas line from the fuel pump and hooked-up my vac guage for a reading..hardly moved the needle. The I checked output..about 2 spurts then nothing. Considering this pump is only a month old, I'm pretty disgusted and definatley lost confidence at least with the 223 six fuel pump! I will check out the Carter. I see there are a bunch of different e-fuel pumps on E-Bay as well. Overall, are these pretty easy to install? This will be a first. I am also wondering what power source I will need to tap into. Thanks and I will let you know how I made out.
As I recall, '55's have saddle tanks, right? You just need to put the electric pump down as low and as close to the tank as possible, mount it inside the frame rails with some rubber on the mounts to keep it quiet. Put a good filter in front of it and another good metal-can one up just ahead of the carb.
Do an Advanced Search on electric fuel pumps, you find lots of help. Here is one thread that has some useful info including wiring.
I have an electrical 6v fuel pump in my 52. I'm running a 215. I also plan on using the stock mechanical pump as well. When the truck had the flathead 8, it had the same set up. Never had a problem.
As I recall, '55's have saddle tanks, right? You just need to put the electric pump down as low and as close to the tank as possible, mount it inside the frame rails with some rubber on the mounts to keep it quiet. Put a good filter in front of it and another good metal-can one up just ahead of the carb.
Do an Advanced Search on electric fuel pumps, you find lots of help. Here is one thread that has some useful info including wiring.
This may sound foolish on my behalf but I may have overlooked one key element...the flex hose from the main fuel line to pump. The one I have looks like it has seen better days. I am thinking if the hose is not air tight, this could effect the pumps ability to draw fuel. Tonight I will install a new hose and see what happens. It is an Airtex pump and from what I understand, they are "supposed" to be resistant to the alcohol in modern fuel.
I took the truck down to the parts store and when I was ready to leave, I had a heck of a time getting the 55 to start. After waiting about 20 minutes and a few turns, it fired up. Vapor lock? Coil? It's hot in Florida! I am running the stock 223 6 and also wanted to metion that a majority of the fuel line from the fuel pump to carb is rubber fuel injection hose which wraps around the front of the engine with part of it resting below the top radiator hose. Maybe I should change this out with more steel line running instead. This problem has only occured a couple of times when it is real hot but would like to make it go away. Appreciate any guidance.
I found the problem...the rubber hose that connects from the main fuel line to the gas tank was splt therefore the pump was having a hard time drawing fuel. I could also see damp spots on top of the tank right below the hose. Swapped out the hose, primed the carb and she fired back up and for now, running great. Thanks again for the help. I learn something new everyday.
In fifty years or so driving these old cars I have never had "vapor lock" in an original car. I have had that issue in motor homes or other large engine applications in non stock configurations.
Most hot engine stoppages are coil related or as you found a leak in the fuel system or pump failure.
Good job diagnosing your issue.
It is so much easier to spend your hard earned money for a unneeded electric pump and pat yourself on the back for fixing the trouble. The leaking hose would still likely be there but the electric pump would have high enough volume to hid the leak.
Opinions will vary
Larry