Duraspark Help!!
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From: Edinburg, Texas
Duraspark Help!!
Heres what I got '65 f100 with '73 400 engine conversion. I start the truck i let it idle about 5 minutes I go for a drive around the block let it sit in the drive way for 10 minutes, then i move it and it dies blah. no start for about 10 minutes and the coil is super hot.
The dizzy on the 400 looks like a Duraspark cus its not wide like the newer fords. The box that it has right now is a Duraspark II (CBE7), could this be the problem?
The truck had a 351w before with the Duraspark II ignition system and wide dizzy, this is the reason i am using the DSII box. I have the control module that came with the 400 btw. Should i put it back? And is the wiring the same as Duraspark II?
The dizzy on the 400 looks like a Duraspark cus its not wide like the newer fords. The box that it has right now is a Duraspark II (CBE7), could this be the problem?
The truck had a 351w before with the Duraspark II ignition system and wide dizzy, this is the reason i am using the DSII box. I have the control module that came with the 400 btw. Should i put it back? And is the wiring the same as Duraspark II?
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From: Virginia
It sounds like the coil was wired without the proper resistance wiring. You can confirm this by getting the engine running, and measuring the coil voltage at the coil + connection. Running you should have around 9v, not 12v.
If you find this is the case, go to the store and buy a large white resistor for a Chrysler product and try it. The value should be about 1 ohm resistance. Mount it where it can be cooled by air moving around, as it will get warm, and might smoke in the beginning.
If that cures your problem, then you might want to make sure you have the resistor start bypass hooked up. This is simply a wire from the "i" terminal on the solenoid that is ran over and hooked directly to the coil +. When the engine is cranking, the solenoid "i" terminal will send a straight 12v to the coil so it starts quicker, and then after the engine has started, then the coil is supplied by the proper voltage from the resistor.
If you find this is the case, go to the store and buy a large white resistor for a Chrysler product and try it. The value should be about 1 ohm resistance. Mount it where it can be cooled by air moving around, as it will get warm, and might smoke in the beginning.
If that cures your problem, then you might want to make sure you have the resistor start bypass hooked up. This is simply a wire from the "i" terminal on the solenoid that is ran over and hooked directly to the coil +. When the engine is cranking, the solenoid "i" terminal will send a straight 12v to the coil so it starts quicker, and then after the engine has started, then the coil is supplied by the proper voltage from the resistor.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Edinburg, Texas
Would the resistor be an RU6? On the borg warner website its listed specs are 1.3 1.4 Ohms @ 70°F and is for chrysler.
Also would my old 73 model dizzy work with the DSII box?
Also would my old 73 model dizzy work with the DSII box?
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From: Virginia
If the 73 distributor has points, then no it won't work.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Edinburg, Texas
ok i checked the wiring on the truck and the red and white wires seemed to be tied together going to the coil with a power source tied into that.
I ran the white wire to the S side of the solenoid, and the red wire to the starter switch run position, and a wire from the switch run pos. to the coil with a ballast res. (RU6)
The truck seems to run better now i actually fishtailed instead bogging out and the coil is not super hot anymore.
I ran the white wire to the S side of the solenoid, and the red wire to the starter switch run position, and a wire from the switch run pos. to the coil with a ballast res. (RU6)
The truck seems to run better now i actually fishtailed instead bogging out and the coil is not super hot anymore.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Edinburg, Texas
Thanks for the responses but now i have another question.
I was browsing at work today and looked up a dizzy for a 73 galaxie 6.6 with elec. ignition, then i looked up one for a 79 ford f150 w/ a 6.6 and noticed that they have the same part number.
My current dizzy has the small cap on it. Should I buy the dist. cap, dist cap adpater and wire set in order for my setup to work correctly?
I was browsing at work today and looked up a dizzy for a 73 galaxie 6.6 with elec. ignition, then i looked up one for a 79 ford f150 w/ a 6.6 and noticed that they have the same part number.
My current dizzy has the small cap on it. Should I buy the dist. cap, dist cap adpater and wire set in order for my setup to work correctly?
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Surrey BC CANADA
Thanks for the responses but now i have another question.
I was browsing at work today and looked up a dizzy for a 73 galaxie 6.6 with elec. ignition, then i looked up one for a 79 ford f150 w/ a 6.6 and noticed that they have the same part number.
My current dizzy has the small cap on it. Should I buy the dist. cap, dist cap adpater and wire set in order for my setup to work correctly?
I was browsing at work today and looked up a dizzy for a 73 galaxie 6.6 with elec. ignition, then i looked up one for a 79 ford f150 w/ a 6.6 and noticed that they have the same part number.
My current dizzy has the small cap on it. Should I buy the dist. cap, dist cap adpater and wire set in order for my setup to work correctly?
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