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Guys how do I grease my wheel bearings? is there some type of hidden magical zerk somewhere lol or do I need to pull them out and slap the grease all over them? also how hard would it be to remove them on my truck?
you can do it bud. you do need a special socket for the ford axles though. its basically a round tube with 4 prongs on it. you need it to take the bearing keeper off.
thanks for your help guys, oreo thanks for reminding me about that special prong socket too, I think I can do it just going to take me a really long time, how exactly do I get the rotor off? I know how to get the caliper off and I think that that the bridge is only two bolts to take off? but I don't know about the rotor
I did my 94 f350 last summer its easey. 1st off is getting the right nut which can be a pain. I have the dana 60? front end for a 1 tn which none of the stores arnound here had the socket for. If you have a parts washer it will make life easier but not neccessary... I used a 2ltr cut in half to do my washing with.
you should get a bearing packer, the hand one costs about 20$ Amazon.com: KD Tools 2775 Hand Bearing Packer: Automotive the zerk based one costs about 5$. Lisle 65250 Bearing Packer - Lubrication / Hose Reels if you use the zerk based put both smaller bearings in first then the 2 larger ones so you waste less grease that way. you will probably need a seal puller which is 5$ and a pain to use the calipers on my truck came out after knocking 2 spacing pins out. unbolt the cap for the 4wd switch. slide out the locking nut, then use the wrench to remove the nut. slid off the hub and roter combo. poped the seals and cleaned every thing greased and put it back together....
I had to do the roters and calipers at the same time due to previous owner wearing 1 of the plates of the rotars off completely and ruining the front left caliper. I did the whole front breaks at that time since I just bought the truck... once you have the tools its easy and didnt take me more then a fiew hrs. I also painted the insides of the new rotars so that they wouldent rust out. it took a little time to do that but is worth it was tempted to do the caliper but wasnt that energetic. also antisezed the bleader valves then to so they wont rust solid.
if you have the rotar/hub combo that the bolt goes trough both from the back side check your lugs every week or two else you may loose a tire. some times those lugs dont get seated all the way and as you drive they finally get pulled in more loosining your wheel. if you dont catch it you can loose the nuts and a tire. you dont want to have to walk a 1/2 mile in the dark trying to find the wheel that went on down the raod when you didnt
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.