Dam
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Long Island, NY
Thanks people this one was freaking me out big time. I just switched out my IFS for a D60 and RSK with 4 inch lift springs. Spent major dollars and did all that work while we were having a record breaking heat wave that aint over yet so I am sure yopu can see where a person would flip out when there truck would not start after all that work.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
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From: Long Island, NY
Dam! would not start today. Tried to unplug the ICP and got nothing this time. Any body know how to test the ICP and IPR so I don't just start throwing parts at the problem?
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
With the ICP unplugged ,the PCM will assume ICP , it should start. Here is a write up to test the Pressure with a gauge
For testing with a meter
And this is from member Pocket:
For future reference, If you hold the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
ICP
PSI Voltage
0 = .02
200 = .4
400 = .73
600 = .96
800 = 1.2
1000 = 1.4
1200 = 1.6
1400 = 1.9
1600 = 2.1
1800 = 2.3
2000 = 2.6
2200 = 2.8
2400 = 3.0
2600 = 3.3
2800 = 3.5
3000 = 3.9
PSI Voltage
0 = .02
200 = .4
400 = .73
600 = .96
800 = 1.2
1000 = 1.4
1200 = 1.6
1400 = 1.9
1600 = 2.1
1800 = 2.3
2000 = 2.6
2200 = 2.8
2400 = 3.0
2600 = 3.3
2800 = 3.5
3000 = 3.9
you have to view the ICP. When my truck wouldn't start, I watched ICP pressure, voltage, and duty cycle along with the engine RPM's. I cranked for about 10 seconds or so, and watched as the ICP voltage and duty cycle increased, but the pressure did not. It stayed between 100-130 psi no matter what. That told me that as voltage and duty cycle increased, the IPR was not responding and maintaining pressure. If it was a voltage issue, then it would have been the ICP sensor itself.
If I remember correctly, to start you need at least 400 psi of high oil pressure, and 0.8 volts on the ICP.
If I remember correctly, to start you need at least 400 psi of high oil pressure, and 0.8 volts on the ICP.
For future reference, If you hold the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
One last thing. Just found my code reader got a 1280 code "ICP out of range". Can it still be the IPR?
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
A little reading for you :
DC1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P1280
DTC P1280 indicates injector control signal circuit out of range low was detected during KOEO Self Test or during continuous diagnostic monitoring.
Possible causes:
biased ICP sensor/PCM
open ICP sensor circuit
short to SIG RTN or PWR GND on ICP sensor circuit
open in VREF circuit
Disconnect ICP sensor harness connector.
Key on, engine off.
Measure voltage between VREF Pin B and battery ground.
Is voltage between 4.5 and 5.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to DC2 . REPAIR open in VREF Circuit 351 (BR/W). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC2 SIGNAL RETURN CIRCUIT CHECK
Measure voltage between VREF Pin B and signal return Pin A.
Key off.
Was voltage between 4.5 and 5.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to DC3 . REPAIR open in signal return Circuit 359 (GY/R). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC3 ICP SIGNAL CIRCUIT CHECK
Install breakout box; leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 87 and Pin C at ICP sensor harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC4 . REPAIR open in signal Circuit 812 (DB/LG) for F-Series or 535 (LB/R) for Econoline. RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC4 VREF CIRCUIT CHECK
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 90 and Pin B at ICP sensor harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC5 . REPAIR open in VREF Circuit 351 (BR/W). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC5 SIGRTN CIRCUIT CHECK
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 91 and Pin A at ICP sensor harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC6 . REPAIR open in SIG RTN Circuit 359 (GY/R). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC6 SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 87 and PCM Test Pins 25, 51, 76, 77, 91 and 103.
Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC7 . REPAIR short to ground in signal wire Circuit 812 (DB/LG). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC7 CHECK FOR SHORT ON PIN 87
Connect breakout box to PCM.
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 87 and PCM Test Pins 25, 91, 51, 76, 77 and 103.
Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE ICP sensor. RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST. REPLACE PCM. RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P1280
DTC P1280 indicates injector control signal circuit out of range low was detected during KOEO Self Test or during continuous diagnostic monitoring.
Possible causes:
biased ICP sensor/PCM
open ICP sensor circuit
short to SIG RTN or PWR GND on ICP sensor circuit
open in VREF circuit
Disconnect ICP sensor harness connector.
Key on, engine off.
Measure voltage between VREF Pin B and battery ground.
Is voltage between 4.5 and 5.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to DC2 . REPAIR open in VREF Circuit 351 (BR/W). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC2 SIGNAL RETURN CIRCUIT CHECK
Measure voltage between VREF Pin B and signal return Pin A.
Key off.
Was voltage between 4.5 and 5.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to DC3 . REPAIR open in signal return Circuit 359 (GY/R). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC3 ICP SIGNAL CIRCUIT CHECK
Install breakout box; leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 87 and Pin C at ICP sensor harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC4 . REPAIR open in signal Circuit 812 (DB/LG) for F-Series or 535 (LB/R) for Econoline. RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC4 VREF CIRCUIT CHECK
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 90 and Pin B at ICP sensor harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC5 . REPAIR open in VREF Circuit 351 (BR/W). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC5 SIGRTN CIRCUIT CHECK
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 91 and Pin A at ICP sensor harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC6 . REPAIR open in SIG RTN Circuit 359 (GY/R). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC6 SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 87 and PCM Test Pins 25, 51, 76, 77, 91 and 103.
Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
GO to DC7 . REPAIR short to ground in signal wire Circuit 812 (DB/LG). RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
DC7 CHECK FOR SHORT ON PIN 87
Connect breakout box to PCM.
Measure resistance between PCM Test Pin 87 and PCM Test Pins 25, 91, 51, 76, 77 and 103.
Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE ICP sensor. RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST. REPLACE PCM. RESTORE vehicle. CLEAR DTCs and RETEST.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
Ok how about this. I just got the plug off the HPOP rez and the level had to be over a inch below the top so I put some oil in it and it started right up. I had this happen once before but the tach was working the last time this happened and this time I was getting no tach when it would not start!?!?! Would a low hpop rez give a 1280 code and no tach? This is getting strange. I am starting to think filling the low rez had nothing to do with it starting and I might have a intermediate electrical problem.
O yea great information on testing for a 1280 code. Thanks
O yea great information on testing for a 1280 code. Thanks
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
I unplugged the ICP to do a test with my meter today and after I plugged the ICP in the mother started! Anybody know of a sticking IPR to be a intermediate problem? What would cause a IPR to stick? Would it be a eletrical thing or crud in the oil? Any body know where I can get a IPR for a fair price?
