New Toy!!
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 306
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From: Fair Grove, MO
New Toy!!
I was driving home the other day from pickup up a FREE Sinclair gas station sign and pole and I spotted this pickup for sale. I turned around and looked it over and talked to the owner for a bit. Its a really solid ole truck, came out of Texas via California and it sure looks like it. Not much rust at all 'cept for in the bed up at the front. Its got a Fatman MII front end under it with a power rack, a roller 302 backed up by a toploader 4 speed and a Currie 9 inch rear. According to the owner, from the radiator to the rearend has less then 5000 miles on it. The motor runs smooth but the Holley has got a little hickup when you mat it. Out back its got mono leafs which I'm not a huge fan of and they've got the shocks setting at too much of an angle and they're not doing much as far as controlling the bounce. I'm gonna have to work on that. It needs carpet put in it to cover up the dynamat so I'll probably be buying a carpet kit. And its riding on new 15 inch Magnum 500's. I'm into it for less then 4 grand which I thought was a pretty danged good deal considering what all has been done to it. Right now I'm just gonna drive it and enjoy it and slowly start updating and improving.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Hemet ca.
Kinda looks like mine.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 306
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From: Fair Grove, MO
One thing I've got to do real quick is change out the fruitjar master cylinder. Its got front discs and it stops really well w/o power brakes but I sure want the added security of a dual master cylinder so I'll just add one of them and leave the booster off.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 343
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From: Northwest
When I lowered the rear of my truck it leaned the shock mounts to far forward and I had the same problem as you, what I did was I reclocked the stock upper shock mount thats rivited to the frame, I used an air chisel to cut the rivit heads off then then used a grinder to smooth it out, I then used an air hammer to remove the rivits from the frame (a steel punch and a sledge hammer would work), I left the stock bottom hole position and slid the mount up to the next hole, I put two grade 8 bolts in and marked the last hole on the frame, I then removed the mount and drilled the hole and then remounted the shock mount, all in all I use two of the stock holes and drilled only one additional hole in the frame and it brought the mount back to the stock position. The only cost was the grade 8 bolts, Hope this helps.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 343
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From: Northwest
it's not the length of the shock, it's that when you lower the rear of the truck, it cants the shock mount to far forward so there is no up and down motion of the shock, the shock just lays over sideways and pivots on the studs, I had to reclock the upper shock mount for the shocks to work.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
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Oh ok thank you, on my old toyota I welded a peice of 1 1/2" .120 wall to the inside of the frame rails (boxed) to mount the shocks to, worked great but that was a toy, I know you dont want to weld on your framer. Nice truck you have there.
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