Got the Tcase out, PITA

Trans out, took maybe 30 mins

Bell housing.
Got a few questions now, I'm gonna replace the input shaft bearing, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing. Where are each of these located in relation to the pictures and how far do i need to dig?? Will i have to take the bellhousing off? and is that a pretty easy task? just the bolts and it pops off?
Also is it recommended to replace the clutch while i'm this far in, i doubt it's been changed in 184k miles, OR 284k miles
Any otehr seals etc. i should look at while im in it, would rather spend the money now and not have to redo it down that road!
bring on the advice!

 

Get the luk 12'' clutch. i love mine! 185.00 for clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing, piolet bearing, and allignment tol. they called me to make sure theywere sending me the rigt one.

 

To do the TO, and piolet bearings, the bell housing has to come off. It is held on with 6 bolts, and a couple of alinement dowels. IIRR the quill that the TO bearing slides on comes off the tranny, and the input bearing resides there. It pulls out once the quill is removed.

 

if that luk 12" is any good i wish i would have waited to get it, i have already ordered the TO input and pilot bearings seperate. their on the way.
Farmert: your saying that the quill on the far side of the trans in my pic comes out of the trans? and in the hole will be the input shaft bearing or it will come out with that quill? not sure how i would get that quill off or just pull it?

Anyone got any other good clutch kits? non bearing specific
gonna check rockauto.

 

It's been quite a while since I did mine, but IIRR the quill is bolted on the tranny. Unbolt the quill to remove it, and the input shaft bearing will be behind the quill. The quill holds the bearing in place.

 

ahhhhh okay. sounds good i'll check it out.

Anyone else got opinions on clutch kits?
RhinoPac has a heavy duty option
SACHS
Brute Power-11"
Exedy has a 12" though i don't know what the inches mean.
Also a Valeo option which is about 200 bucks.

 

Alrighty fellers, i ran into an issue, got around to checking out the truck this weekend so far i can't figure out how to get the clutchcable i guess is what it is disconnected from the bellhousing. i could take the bellhousing off without disconnecting the cable but i couldn't pull it all the way out to clean it off and inspect it

 

Anyone got the answer to the cable question? I'd like to get this thing undone and put back together tomorrow, atleast all the bearings in place.

Also i'd really love a suggestion on a replacement clutch kit? reputable brands etc.
i don't understand the 10" or 11" or 12" jargin so if theres a good brand name as well as an upgrade from stock i'd like to just go ahead and replace that while im at it.

also where is the rear main seal at? i'll replace that as well as inspect the flywheel and replace if i see fit, i'll let yall know and let you see it. Should i keep with the stock SMF? i don't relaly wanna do a lot of modifying like i hear people talk about to do a DMF

 

There should not be any cables running to the bell housing. There should be a hydrolic line running to the slave cylinder that operates the T.O. bearing fork. The slave cylinder is held on the the bell with a spring clip that slips over the fingers on the outside of the bell. Just take a large screw driver and pry the entire cylinder and clip from the bell, by pushing it towards the drivers side frame rail.
The 10", 11", 12" you are refering to is the diameter of the clutch disc. The larger the diameter the more material is on the clutch to transfer the power to the rear wheels. The rear main is around the crankshaft behind the fly wheel, and rarely needs replacing.
Your stock flywheel should be good, you just need to get it reserfaced, by taking it to a machine shop and having it ground. You do not have a dual mass fly wheel with a T19, those came with the Zf5 tranny.

 

This is the input shaft and the input shaft bearing? correct? While trying to get the smaller "snap ring" off i chipped some of the retaining wall because i was using screw drivers trying to walk it out of the groove, i used the biggest snap ring pliers i had to get one side started out of the groove but they just weren't wide enough to open it up like they should. Is there a special tool for that? because theres hardly any way i could get the snap ring back in without probably doing more damage. Also do i need a bearing puller to get that bearing off? there is one on the back side that looks the exact same around the shaft that goes into the transfer case? What is that called and do i need to worry ab out replacing it? my dad keeps asking why i don't replace both of them. What type puller would i need and or tool to get that snap ring back on? if there is one /: i really hope i haven't messed anything up..



this is the bearing walked out a little bit so it covers the groove where the smaller snap ring was. i took the picture of it to show the chipping, it chipped once and then i thought no point in going back now its almost off, so i walked it the rest of the way off and it chipped again right next to it, i don't think that should be a problem at all, am i wrong? i really hope i haven't messed up, that's only like a retaining wall right? i can't see how that would mess up the function of the tranny at all...

 

Also i have another question, i could really use an answer to, my dad keeps giving me these what ifs and now hes saying the input shaft should no have had any room to slide in and out the little bit that it could with the retaining rings on.
i'm not even sure what he's talking about but i'd just really like to get the bearing changed.