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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #1  
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brycemc
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new guy

i'll introduce myself first. My name is Bryce, I'm 25, engaged, and have a 3 month old daughter. now onto business. we've had about 7 f series trucks including 3 or 4 broncos and this truck i'm about to ask help on is our first diesel. it's an early 94 turbo 7.3 IDI , now i currently race a 94 lightning. (i'm assuming you guys like pics as much as i do so here IT is)





now onto the diesel (license plate is LTNGPLR) we have a 36' enclosed trailer for the lightning.



I can tear an f series truck down to the frame in a day and put it back together the next day, a diesel on the other hand, i'm kinda retarded. I had an issue with this one overheating, so I flushed the coolant, used the ford additive and replaced the fan clutch, overheating fixed, or so i thought. It drove fine by itself, I hooked the trailer up with the lightning in it on a 110* arizona day and the thing would climb to the M in normal. and i can't get the truck to go any faster than 55-60mph. The trailer and L weigh in at around 12,000lbs. anyone ever have these kind of cooling issues, and what can i do so this thing can travel down the interstate at 70.
the f350 is bone stock, i'll throw the money at it just need to know where to throw it if it's worth doing thanks in advance
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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rupejosh
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brycemc welcome to FTE and the idi forum!!!!thanks for the introduction we dont get many intros like this.lol

replace the thermostat with a motorcraft would be my first suggestion other thermostats are know to fail in these.do you get any black smoke?
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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kenpobuck
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Are you still runnin the factory smashed down pipe on the turbo? They will choke it down real bad as well.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Coalroller
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Originally Posted by kenpobuck
Are you still runnin the factory smashed down pipe on the turbo? They will choke it down real bad as well.
along with kenpo, is the exhaust in general stock? if so the muffler as could be clogging or not flowing the way it should
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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brycemc
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thanks for the responses. bone stock 94 muffler still stamped with the ford part number. no smoke ever, not on start up or getting on the freeway with a bunch of go pedal. another issue i'm having is the terrible mileage. this going through a tank in about 150 miles which is roughly 8 ish mpg, and it taking forever to start cold. i'll slap a t-stat in it in the morning and change the fuel filter. you guys know anywhere to get oarts for this thing? everything i'm finding is for 97 and newer
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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rupejosh
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rockauto.com is a good place for parts what kind of parts are you looking for?being you have a turbo i would cut the muffler off i did it on mine and i didnt notice the truck being louder but did notice some power and mileage
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Festus Hagen
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Got a pyrometer??
Got a boost gauge??

If not get them both!
Install the pyro in the collector on the drivers side exhaust manifold.

Once you get them installed you can turn the fuel up a little, it's pretty easy just don't do it without a pyro.

Also the boost may be able to be upped a little, max 15 lbs on a 7.3.

The stock exhaust is basically junk, up it to 3.5", use a good free flowing (preferably a chambered sound canceling design) diesel muffler, as stated ensure the down pipe is not the smashed flat one, although the upgraded down pipe from ATS is currently unavailable, It will be again according to them.

You don't say the mileage, however if it's over 100k and the Injection Pump and Injectors have never been changed it may very well be time ... Ask before pulling the pump, done right it's easy, do it wrong and it's a nightmare.

And most importantly ... Have FUN at the track!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 11:13 PM
  #8  
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brycemc
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
You don't say the mileage, however if it's over 100k and the Injection Pump and Injectors have never been changed it may very well be time ... Ask before pulling the pump, done right it's easy, do it wrong and it's a nightmare.

And most importantly ... Have FUN at the track!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
sorry, thought i did, the truck just hit 155k this afternoon. and the whole reason for the trailer and two ac units is to have a blast at the track, and keeping the baby cooled off.

now onto the injector pump. why is everyone afraid to tackle em? i've never done one, so maybe i'll learn. i'll see what it takes tomorrow for the exhaust. if i need to i'll just make the fugger
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 11:36 PM
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First thing would be T stat and straight pipe you will barely hear the exaust with the widows up turn on the radio to what ever level you like and its go The cabs are well insulated on the 94s Your mufler is probly pulged. If you snap the throtle in nuetral and don't get any smoke you could use a bit more fule but get a pyrometer first.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 11:45 PM
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Bryce
While your under the hood tomorrow. Take a look at the sensor in Rupejohshs photo. This may be out tach problem. It was just too hot for me to do it.
Dad

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...idi-turob.html
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 12:18 AM
  #11  
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Festus Hagen
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Originally Posted by brycemc
sorry, thought i did, the truck just hit 155k this afternoon. and the whole reason for the trailer and two ac units is to have a blast at the track, and keeping the baby cooled off.
Yup, know the feeling ...

Originally Posted by brycemc
now onto the injector pump. why is everyone afraid to tackle em? i've never done one, so maybe i'll learn. i'll see what it takes tomorrow for the exhaust. if i need to i'll just make the fugger
It's not that people are afraid to tackle them, it's the fact that most do it wrong and lose the IP gear timing, this leads to removing the front of the motor most of the time!

To many peeps follow the books and they are wrong, they instruct one to pull the IP drive gear cover (half round cover where you add oil) with the pump, that is wrong, leave the gear cover on and pull the little front cover (or oil fill spout on some models), then reach in and remove the three IP to gear bolts (careful not to drop them inside), then remove the three IP nuts to remove the IP ... This leave the IP gear locked into the drive gear and IP gear timing is not lost!

On a non Turbo motor an IP can be R&R in less then 30 minutes, Turbo'ed motors are a bit harder.

Yes, build your own exhaust, Want something done right, do it yourself!

BTW, If you want a custom IP or Injectors there is a user on here that uses the handle "type4", he can hook you up, His stuff is the rave! No personal experience.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #12  
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brycemc
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen

Yes, build your own exhaust, Want something done right, do it yourself!

BTW, If you want a custom IP or Injectors there is a user on here that uses the handle "type4", he can hook you up, His stuff is the rave! No personal experience.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
yeah making a 4500 lb pick up run 10's i know all about make ***** fit, i figure how hard could a 4'' pipe be for this turd. i'll look him up. we're about to make a 2200 mile round trip with the trailer from phx to kansas city and back. i want to make sure the f350 is up to the task before we head out
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 06:43 AM
  #13  
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If the temp gauge is reading correctly and the thermostat is the right one, I'd say the overheating is caused by the radiator not having good flow. Likely the radiator is starting to plug up.

I had my 85' loaded with 9.5 ft camper, 22 ft cuddy cabin, 6 people, all the tools and crap you take to go play for 10 days, pulling hills and bucking headwinds in 106 degrees and never overheated.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #14  
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If you are to spend money on a new radiator, and in your situation I probably would do so if anything just for a peace of mind, when you PM Russ (Type4) ask him about his radiator, IIRC he's one of the several folks who had a custom-made monster aluminum radiator - now I know everyone is going to jump up in arms and say that the factory radiator is the thing to use, but in my experience the factory radiator while pretty darn good still ain't all that good, and these guys came to the same conclusion as me and found an alternative they say works better.

About the engine's performance, whoever mentioned the factory muffler may be plugged could very well be correct, not to mention the entire exhaust system is pretty darn restrictive to begin with. 3" downpipe is about as large as you can fit in there and even that requires some persuasion of the firewall lip behind it, but once you're under the cab you can go larger - they say 4" is about as big as you can go with it being useful, as in you can go larger but you won't see any benefits from it. And as said already look for a diesel muffler, or you can use a free flowing gasser muffler as long as it's all steel baffles and open chambers inside - basically you don't want a muffler that has any packing as this will plug up with soot and become ineffective over time...
 
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 11:59 AM
  #15  
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brycemc
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Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
If you are to spend money on a new radiator, and in your situation I probably would do so if anything just for a peace of mind, when you PM Russ (Type4) ask him about his radiator, IIRC he's one of the several folks who had a custom-made monster aluminum radiator - now I know everyone is going to jump up in arms and say that the factory radiator is the thing to use, but in my experience the factory radiator while pretty darn good still ain't all that good, and these guys came to the same conclusion as me and found an alternative they say works better.

About the engine's performance, whoever mentioned the factory muffler may be plugged could very well be correct, not to mention the entire exhaust system is pretty darn restrictive to begin with. 3" downpipe is about as large as you can fit in there and even that requires some persuasion of the firewall lip behind it, but once you're under the cab you can go larger - they say 4" is about as big as you can go with it being useful, as in you can go larger but you won't see any benefits from it. And as said already look for a diesel muffler, or you can use a free flowing gasser muffler as long as it's all steel baffles and open chambers inside - basically you don't want a muffler that has any packing as this will plug up with soot and become ineffective over time...

cool thanks for the info. i'll get the truck up in the air today and see what i have to work with. i might just say eff the muffler the turbo can be enough muffler for me haha, depending on how bad the drone is on the freeway
 
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