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Heh, it's probably dribbling from the same place as mine. New gaskets all around and it's dribbling a tad bit of engine oil from the transmission. It's not the rear main seal because it's dripping from the bell housing behind the flywheel, and it's not the transmission. Up top seems dry by the turbo oil feed so it's leaving me scratching my head at the moment. If you find it let me know! lol
Heh, it's probably dribbling from the same place as mine. New gaskets all around and it's dribbling a tad bit of engine oil from the transmission. It's not the rear main seal because it's dripping from the bell housing behind the flywheel, and it's not the transmission. Up top seems dry by the turbo oil feed so it's leaving me scratching my head at the moment. If you find it let me know! lol
Whatever degreasing method you use, do not pour any cold fluid on a hot injector pump especially if the engine is running. Cover the pump or powerwash the engine when its cold.
does it sound different than it did before the partial rebuild?you may just have an exhaust leak if you removed the exhaust during the rebuild.
at first it did maybe because it needed to get the fluids pumping..but after i got diesel in the injectors and oil feeding to the turbo it sounded like a beauty, it was at low idle so we turned the screw by the throttle cable and then it sounded great.
Now the way we found my leak was by turning it on and going under it with a l.e.d. flashlight, which made it much easier to find since it would sort of splatter a bit while the engine was running.
ok will do...well turns out that the leak is coming from the oil pan gasket. I'm hearing that we forgot to add silicone along side with the gasket?
Is lifting up the engine to get the oil pan out, my only option?
Unfortunately, yes. However, if a cork gasket was used you *might* get away with reaching in and tightening the bolts a little more as its likely the gasket has settled by now. When I rebuilt my engine I used the cork gasket that was supplied but also used ultra black permatex RTV sealer on both sides so it seems to be holding. By the book, no gasket should be used and only sealer should be applied.
Knowing what I know now, I would never use cork gaskets but like i said, sometimes you can get away with simply retightening the bolts as the gaskets almost always settle early in their service life. If I'm right you will find the pan bolts to be barely snug and some might even be loose.
Unfortunately, yes. However, if a cork gasket was used you *might* get away with reaching in and tightening the bolts a little more as its likely the gasket has settled by now. When I rebuilt my engine I used the cork gasket that was supplied but also used ultra black permatex RTV sealer on both sides so it seems to be holding. By the book, no gasket should be used and only sealer should be applied.
Knowing what I know now, I would never use cork gaskets but like i said, sometimes you can get away with simply retightening the bolts as the gaskets almost always settle early in their service life. If I'm right you will find the pan bolts to be barely snug and some might even be loose.
yea, i used the cork gasket that came with it as well but my mistake was that i didn't use sealant..so im forced to do the work. Do you think i can jus lift the engine rather than taking it out completely?
I hear several guys have done it but I haven't personally. The saving grace with your situation is there probably won't be any sealer on the mating surfaces so it mught be a simpler matter of wiping both sides down, and adding the sealer. The cork gasket should come out no problem.
Basically you lift the engine up off the mounts as high as it can go, drop the pan, and if you want to completely remove it from the truck, you have to drop the oil pickup tube from the engine. Pan and pickup tube should slide out backwards at that point. But again, I've never done this myself (thankfully).
I hear several guys have done it but I haven't personally. The saving grace with your situation is there probably won't be any sealer on the mating surfaces so it mught be a simpler matter of wiping both sides down, and adding the sealer. The cork gasket should come out no problem.
Basically you lift the engine up off the mounts as high as it can go, drop the pan, and if you want to completely remove it from the truck, you have to drop the oil pickup tube from the engine. Pan and pickup tube should slide out backwards at that point. But again, I've never done this myself (thankfully).
ok so i did that today actually before reading the post..but hopefully it'll work all out i'd hate to have to do it again..but thanks either way. Oh and by the way, that cork gasket the "new one" well it was ripped in a couple areas when we got it out.
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