Oreo got me thinking
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
Oreo got me thinking
Ok I have been mulling this over for a long time but don't know enough to figure it out. We all know that the design of our exhaust manifolds sucks at least the driverside. I want to build custom manifolds and plum them into a turbo sitting right above the bellhousing. With the lift I did I have plenty of room there. I think it should still be able to gravity drain oil back to the pan from there. What dia. pipe should I use for the log on the manifold to get the best flow and to help spool the turbo? Also would angling runners off the heads be better or running them straight out ( I figure angle would be better)? Would these shorter runs to the turbo help spool it faster as well? Can you clock the housings on the turbo to change the inlet/outlet? Finding just a used turbo cheap seems to be easier than the whole system and fabbing something up pretty simple. Any info would be great. Also what is the max boost I would want to run? I did do the arp studs when I put the new heads on but want to keep it under gasket blowing pressure.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
this sounds awesome, Im not sure but wouldnt smaller diameter pipe mean that the air flows much faster through it because its buillding a bit of pressure? and will the turbo heat up really bad being crammed in there?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 1
From: Las vegas
You wana use as samll of tubing as you can to keep the volocity up and make it as short as possible so the exaust has les time to cool befor the turbo. The intake side can be reclocked on almost all turbos as for the exaust some you can some you can't, If you find a turbo where the compressor and turbine housings are held on with v clamps then you can re clock them to any position you want where as if they bolt up you can only put them where the bolts line up. I think the ideal set up would be equal length headers as 1short as posible into 1" collectors then run 1" pipe from each header to the turbo and header wrap everything
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
imo 1" is too small. That engine will be struggling to push that exhaust out. I'd say 1 1/2" - 2". Just measure what your crossover pipe is and go that rout. Remember, volume is as important as pressure, if not more. 400 psi does you no good when it's pushed through a straw
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
Why reinvent the wheel, Stans-Headers has headers available. Pricey, but available.
Headers for Ford, Mustang, Pinto, Bronco, Cougar, Ranger, exhaust parts for home built do it yourself automotive headers.
Headers for Ford, Mustang, Pinto, Bronco, Cougar, Ranger, exhaust parts for home built do it yourself automotive headers.
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 1
From: Las vegas
Thouse headers IIRC are for N/A motors and wouldn't be optimum for turbod aplication.
Oreo The more I think about it 1" is probly a bit small But the cross over doesn't need to be as big as it is in my opinion.
Oreo The more I think about it 1" is probly a bit small But the cross over doesn't need to be as big as it is in my opinion.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
I want to run stubs into a common tube sorta like we have now. I have access to some 2 1/2 od 3/8 wall dom tubing (1 1/2" id) at work. Iirc our exhaust ports are rectanguler. So I would need some rec. tubing as well. As for the connections at the turbo could I use some of the braided flex tube? I want to be able to have some give in this area for mounting. Also would it help if the stubs were curved or angled in the direction I want the flow to go or would it be overkill?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 950
Likes: 2
From: West Bend
If you can find some solid steel bar scrap the same size as the port (or close to it) you can grind it down to make yourself a "Round to square press die" Then cut yourself a section of round tube and press/hammer the die into the tube to force the one end square to match the port.
Or you may be able to just smoosh the round pipe with a vice and hammer the top/bottom flatter... maybe some coaxing with a torch to help it along.
Best ideal would be each cylinder equal length of pipe into a venturi collector. If the venturi collectors minor ID is = to the area of a port it will help scavenge the exhaust manifold. However that's a lot of work so really don't see it on anything but race cars. Burns stainless is a big supplier of the SS collectors for the race guys
Or you may be able to just smoosh the round pipe with a vice and hammer the top/bottom flatter... maybe some coaxing with a torch to help it along.
Best ideal would be each cylinder equal length of pipe into a venturi collector. If the venturi collectors minor ID is = to the area of a port it will help scavenge the exhaust manifold. However that's a lot of work so really don't see it on anything but race cars. Burns stainless is a big supplier of the SS collectors for the race guys
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
I want to run stubs into a common tube sorta like we have now. I have access to some 2 1/2 od 3/8 wall dom tubing (1 1/2" id) at work. Iirc our exhaust ports are rectanguler. So I would need some rec. tubing as well. As for the connections at the turbo could I use some of the braided flex tube? I want to be able to have some give in this area for mounting. Also would it help if the stubs were curved or angled in the direction I want the flow to go or would it be overkill?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
If you can find some solid steel bar scrap the same size as the port (or close to it) you can grind it down to make yourself a "Round to square press die" Then cut yourself a section of round tube and press/hammer the die into the tube to force the one end square to match the port.
Or you may be able to just smoosh the round pipe with a vice and hammer the top/bottom flatter... maybe some coaxing with a torch to help it along.
Or you may be able to just smoosh the round pipe with a vice and hammer the top/bottom flatter... maybe some coaxing with a torch to help it along.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
Ok they are round ports. That makes things alot easier lol. I can use weld fitting elbows for the stubs. 3/8" cold roll for the flanges and 3/4" cold roll for the flange that mounts to the turbo. I would like to use a turbo for on of these IDIs but if that is not accessable what other cars/trucks could I search thru to find a substitute? The pressure hat should be pretty easy to do. As for the air cleaner I was thinking about one of the sealed plastic units used in most vehichles these days. That would give easey access to filters as well even K&N if I want. What is a safe psi level with the studs, maybe 15 or so?
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
Ya I need to check that dom again. I was going buy the inventory tag that is still on it. Geuss some one can't read a tape lol. Best part there is 20' of it and it has been counted 3 yrs in a row, never had any cut off of it.