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power window motor?

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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #16  
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very good point! i think ill just fix what i need to on the cheap end. thanks for the help and yeah i think ill be fine doin it but if you can post some pics as a reference that be great!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #17  
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My power window problem ended up being the plastic bearings in the motor...

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Electric window quick help!!!!!!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #18  
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93_F250, wow man, you really did it the hard way - if you drill and grind like I mentioned all you remove is the motor and gear box assembly, the arm and linkage stays in the door and there's no need for replacing rivets and all that.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
93_F250, wow man, you really did it the hard way - if you drill and grind like I mentioned all you remove is the motor and gear box assembly, the arm and linkage stays in the door and there's no need for replacing rivets and all that.
Yea - I for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get the motor off the linkage while it was in the door - oh well - next time I'll be able to pull the whole assembly out in under 5 min...

But the trucks running good - so I'm driving to Tijuana in early AM... 3 days of Bull Fights and Negra Modelo.....
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
Just a heads-up, if the motor has never been replaced you'll have to drill holes and also grind a slot in the inboard sheetmetal skin of the door. Basically the motor assembly is held to the window regulator assembly with three bolts, the front bolt you can get with a wrench but the top and the bottom ones are buried but there are small dimples as if from a punch in the sheetmetal that hides them - you use these dimples for centering your drill and go to town, a 1/2" hole allows you to freely insert a 5/16" or 8mm 1/4-drive socket and reach the offending bolts, the front bolt you can fight with the wrench but I just made a slot over it and used socket there as well. Why the factory didn't put holes there I dunno, they took the time to make the dimples and there are tons of other holes already cut in the skin so why not make just three more is beyond me...
Listen to this guy, I had the same problem a while back and he gave me the same advice. Did both windows and they work flawlessly now. Have to admit the hardest part was getting the damn nuts to stay stacked up and not fall over lol.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by johnboggs21
Have to admit the hardest part was getting the damn nuts to stay stacked up and not fall over lol.
That's cause you were doing it the hard way, I did the same thing first time around but then found a trick to it - you insert the small gear on the shaft and in the big gear deep enough to where the gap between the edges of the two gears is small enough for one 1/4" nut to barely fit - you insert one nut in each slot and then carefully push them down a bit but not all the way down, you want them to sit pretty much flush with or slightly below the edge of the large gear, then you insert the second layer of nuts and press down on the small gear real good, basically you use the small gear to compact the whole assembly. Does that make any sense? lol
 
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 08:04 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
That's cause you were doing it the hard way, I did the same thing first time around but then found a trick to it - you insert the small gear on the shaft and in the big gear deep enough to where the gap between the edges of the two gears is small enough for one 1/4" nut to barely fit - you insert one nut in each slot and then carefully push them down a bit but not all the way down, you want them to sit pretty much flush with or slightly below the edge of the large gear, then you insert the second layer of nuts and press down on the small gear real good, basically you use the small gear to compact the whole assembly. Does that make any sense? lol
makes perfect sense. After messing around with the passenger side motor for about 15 minutes doing it the hard way, when I got to the drivers side I thought I'd do it the easy way. 5 minutes later both windows were going up and down lol.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 10:50 AM
  #23  
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well thanks to LCAM-01XA i fixed the window motor with like he said six 1/4" nuts 30 min of my time from the time i started getting the tools ready till the time i put the last one away and absolutely NO $$$! thanks alot bud!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 12:50 PM
  #24  
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So you figured out where to drill and such? Goodie, glad to help!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 01:35 PM
  #25  
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yeah man right through the little dimples with my 1/2 hougan bit and went from there it couldnt have gone better!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #26  
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I do the 1/4 nut fix on so many fords it's not funny. I have two waiting for it to cool down today right now. Usually takes me an hour a side to do the job. Although when your idiot friend rolls the window up on a piece of tree branch sticking in the window the window gives before the branch.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 03:03 PM
  #27  
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ill have to keep this quick fix in mind, i have a lot of friends with similar trucks with power windows!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #28  
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It ain't just trucks, many cars use the same motors as well - basically when you pull the door panel if you see the tooth-rack medieval torture device instead of cables then in all likelihood the motor has the same setup and can use this backyards fix.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 10:43 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
It ain't just trucks, many cars use the same motors as well - basically when you pull the door panel if you see the tooth-rack medieval torture device instead of cables then in all likelihood the motor has the same setup and can use this backyards fix.
Sweet thats good to know! i will definitely remember this one!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 10:50 PM
  #30  
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By george that may work on the ol ladys Lincoln.............[90 model]
 
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