psd turbo
Check the A/R numbers on the turbo.
I know my 97 has a 1.10 A/R.
I can't remember if the one on my 6.9 is a .72 or .85 A/R since I have both.
Lower A/R, spool sooner with less high RPM boost potential.
Higher A/R, spool slower with more high RPM boost potential.
I went with the lower A/R, since I try not to run mine at 3000+ RPM for extended amounts of time, fuel mileage just goes to the basement if I do.
The extra volume of the intercooler and tubes would have the turbo lag factor increased a good bit, but the numbers should not drop more than a PSI or two after it spools.
Sounds like you may have either an exhaust leak or a boost leak in your system somewhere.
3" down pipe, header wrap on the cross over and up pipe to keep the exhaust hot.
I have no problems getting 20+ PSI boost with my ATS.
Also the fuel level you have from the IP and injectors does play a part in how much boost you get.
I have engough fuel that if I put my foot down hard with boost numbers over 20 PSI, I can still roll the black out of the stacks.
Ram air hooked up with temps in the -20 range is the only time I have a hard time rolling black.
But the truck sure does run good when the temps are that low.
On a side note, my son is looking to make something like the exhaust plumbing that a 7.3 Stroke uses on his 87 6.9 so he can eliminate the cross over pipe.

As you can see, there is a lot of difference from the IDI setup on the exhaust side.
The ATS downpipe is exactly where the Stroke up pipe from the passenger side manifold is.
On the Stroke downpipe, it goes just outside the passenger side up pipe to the turbo, almost at the rocker cover to head connection in that picture.
Hard place to get 3+" of clearance on an IDI motor.
You will also have an exhaust back pressure valve to deal with, but you can just gut it and block off the shaft ports.
Something tells me, given the Volvo engine RPM at a guess that one bank on the IDI would not be enough to spool the turbo.
What is the engine displacement and what RPM is a Volvo is capable of?
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Check the A/R numbers on the turbo.
I know my 97 has a 1.10 A/R.
I can't remember if the one on my 6.9 is a .72 or .85 A/R since I have both.
Lower A/R, spool sooner with less high RPM boost potential.
Higher A/R, spool slower with more high RPM boost potential.
I went with the lower A/R, since I try not to run mine at 3000+ RPM for extended amounts of time, fuel mileage just goes to the basement if I do.
The extra volume of the intercooler and tubes would have the turbo lag factor increased a good bit, but the numbers should not drop more than a PSI or two after it spools.
Sounds like you may have either an exhaust leak or a boost leak in your system somewhere.
3" down pipe, header wrap on the cross over and up pipe to keep the exhaust hot.
I have no problems getting 20+ PSI boost with my ATS.
Also the fuel level you have from the IP and injectors does play a part in how much boost you get.
I have engough fuel that if I put my foot down hard with boost numbers over 20 PSI, I can still roll the black out of the stacks.
Ram air hooked up with temps in the -20 range is the only time I have a hard time rolling black.
But the truck sure does run good when the temps are that low.
On a side note, my son is looking to make something like the exhaust plumbing that a 7.3 Stroke uses on his 87 6.9 so he can eliminate the cross over pipe.

As you can see, there is a lot of difference from the IDI setup on the exhaust side.
The ATS downpipe is exactly where the Stroke up pipe from the passenger side manifold is.
On the Stroke downpipe, it goes just outside the passenger side up pipe to the turbo, almost at the rocker cover to head connection in that picture.
Hard place to get 3+" of clearance on an IDI motor.
You will also have an exhaust back pressure valve to deal with, but you can just gut it and block off the shaft ports.
Can you run a 12V or 24V Cummins turbo (not sure they're different) on these IDI's? I saw a complete Cummins turbo setup for $300 on CL the other day.
If I wanted a reliable motor, 10 to 12 PSI on a 6.9 or 15 on a 7.3 is about as far as you dare go.
Yes it may take more, but you will be changing head gaskets a lot sooner than you want to.
Remember the Strokes and Cummins engines are running stock compression ratios in the 17 or 18 to 1 range.
So they can take more boost than an IDI can even think about.
Slap that turbo on an IDI running 21.5 or 22.5 to 1 and you start getting extreme cylinder pressures.
Take a Stroke at 18 to 1 and run 20 PSI boost to it.
The total effective compression ratio is 42.4 to 1.
Take a 6.9 with a 22.5 to 1 compression ratio and put the same 20 PSI boost to it.
Now you are looking at 53.1 to 1.
A 7.3 with 21.5 to 1 and 20 PSI boost.
Drops the compression ratio to 50.7 to 1.
If I remember right the Cummins is about 17 to 1, so 20 PSI gives it even less than the Stroke motor.
Head studs will keep you rather reliable up to about 20 PSI on an IDI engine.
If you want to go higher, mill the pistons and run head studs.





