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How much would all that cost me to get up to 400hp?
What is so bad about K&N air filers?
What Kind of torque would we be talking about with this set up?
also I got 4.10 to 1 rearend
Torque King, I have a 77 F100 that I bought new, it had the same drivetrain as yours, it sure got good gas mileage with that 2.75. Several years ago I wanted more performance so I installed a 70 model 351c and a C6 with a Stall Converter, with a 3.31 gear, contrary to what one of the previous posters said, it wasn't a very good swap.
I have recently purchased an EFI 5.0 out of a 89 GT Mustang that I plan to install EFI and all.
Joe, 400hp is quite ambitious, but very possible. You are going to need a lot better heads, and a Supercharger would be a good way to get there.
Recipe for 400 HP (keep in mind this is flywheel GROSS)
I'd recommend either Roush 200 or TFS Twisted Wedge heads
A comp Xtreme hyd. roller 266 or more
Roller rocker adjustable valvetrain
MAF fuel injection, or carb with >600cfm
single plane intake, or high rise dual plane with spacer
all MSD ignition
1 5/8" primary headers, unhushed w/ H-pipe
This motor will produce about 402 HP, and 410 ft*lbs (ref. Dyno 2000), it's up to you to get most of it to the ground. It will idle like a stock motor, be very kind on fuel milage, and be able to crawl through Atlanta rush hour traffic without even thinking about heating up. I recommend an electric fan to free up some power, it will also help out your water pump by reducing the stress on the bearings. You don't even need more than 9.5:1 compression to get that kind of power, so you can run that combo on pump gas. It is pretty pricey, $830 for heads, $260 for the cam, $180 for the rockers, $400 for the MSD system, $100 for the headers, and there's lots of other expenses that you'll find along the way. I'll be there eventually, I'm still saving up to do the transmission and rear end gears, because that cam will want a little bit of stall and a little bit more gear than I have right now. TK
I was going to get headers and dual exhast here after I get my inspection in April (as far as I can tell I am exempt from emissions but want to make sure before cutting the cats and all off). I already have the thrush boss turbo mufflers and my buddy owns an exhast shop and does the best work around here that I've seen. But you're saying the headers are not going to work right if I don't pull the engine, so do I wait until I put a remanufactured engine in or can I do it now?
I'd love a 400+hp 302 also but it's better to start reasonable and work from there. A remanufactured engine from a reputable local source (ask around and see what company gets recomended the most and which has been around the longest and has the best warranty) with a good RV cam, 4bbl intake and a good 600-700cfm carb, aftermarket ignition etc will easily get you 200hp....crap mine was rated at 140hp from the factory with the smog crap chokeing it down and a 2bbl. You stick even a factory ford 4bbl manifold and small 4bbl and better flowing exhast on it and you'll be easily at 180+hp. That doesn't sound like a lot but for a ol truck from the smog era it's good.
Keep the info comming guys, I appreciate it as I'm going to be in this situation in a few months.
Nick
Forgot something in my original post.....go with FLAT TOP pistons in you're long block, most remanucatured engine places off them as a no cost option.
Nick
concerning the gentleman above with the failed 351c/C6 swap, the problem with that combo was the C6. I have never driven a 351c 2v or 4v/c6 (even modified) that would get out of it's own way. The problem is using an overkill C6 that drags at least 66 HP in frictional losses. Dropping down to a C4, can get back at least 30 HP, and 10-13 more with a stick shift. I know lots of people that have made that mistake, thinking that they had a doggy 302 or 351c 4v or 2v, and come to find out, each one was equipped with a C6. Not knocking the C6, it is just overkill for a small block. A Big block can better cover up for frictional losses. The goal above was, keep it cheap, and retain at least the same mileage, and do silly things with the rear tires. My experience with 351c 2v's (1970 and 1971 engines, good compression), even with 2v carbs, When I spent some time tuning them, produced some pretty fun rides,(stronger that any stock 302 or 351w short of late model mustangs or 93-95 lightnings) and most were stock, and most mods limited to an Duraspark II ignition, dual exhaust(stock manifolds), and a couple with 4v intakes and 750 cfm carbs.
I have gone thru 7 old 70-71 Torinos all with 351c engines in them, easily repeatable results, can even take a rebuilt one with flattop pistons and make them run great.
you can put the headers on with the engine still in, but it's not something you want to do in your garage, because you have to jack the motor up a few inches on the passenger side to get the clearance you need to install them. Your buddy at the exhaust shop will make short work of that, but make sure you buy him a few ice cold beers, because although he'll have the equipment to do it, and it won't even take long at all to do it, it's just not a very fun task. I'm still looking for a cam, I'll post my recommendation in a few minutes. TK
My problem with the 351c swap isn't with the performance, it ran great. The 2400 stall made it work just fine on the bottom end.
It just doesn't fit well, the engine will fit on the stock 302 mounts, but you have to raise the engine to keep the oil pan from hitting the cross member. Header are a problem, nobody makes them, I used 351m headers which are smaller than the exaust ports and had to notch the engine mount tower to boot.
The engine sits almost against the firewall, so in general just not a good fit for a pickup. Also there is no aftermarket support for the 351c, and you can get anything for a 5.0 or a 351w. Also it would be way too much trouble to make it Emissions Legal.
Ford was on to something with the small journal mains though..
Performer-Plus Camshaft/Lifters/Lube Package #2122*
Use Edelbrock #7811, #7814 or #7820 timing chain set or #7892 Accu-Drive gear drive. DO NOT use stock timing set.
Duration at .006 Lift: Intake 270° Exhaust 280° Centerlines
Duration at .050 Lift: Intake 204° Exhaust 214° Lobe Separation: 112°
Lift at Cam: Intake .280 Exhaust .295 Intake Centerline: 107°
Lift at Valve: Intake .448 Exhaust .472
Timing at .050 Lift: Open Close
Intake 5° ATDC 29° ABDC
Exhaust 44° BBDC 10° BTDC
It's very mild, but it will pull very hard off idle, and it will get good fuel milage as well. I like this one because of the tight 112 deg. LSA, which will give you good acceleration. I also chose this one because it has a wide dual pattern split, which is exactly what stock Ford heads need, because they flow poorly on the exhaust side, and the 10 degree split will help you out there, not to mention with a 112 LSA it will sound very mean, noticably deeper than a stock cam would. Just don't build this thing with more than 9:1 compression, because you don't need it, and this cam works better with lower compression ratios than that. make sure you use new valve spings, because that .472" lift is relatively mild, but it will be too much for old, tired, stock springs. You'll love this cam, it's got tons of grunt at low RPM, and the cam and lifter kit retails for just $131 in Summit or Jegs. Enjoy!
Last edited by TorqueKing; Feb 19, 2003 at 09:43 PM.
well, concerning emssions, the truck in question is a 1970.........
I have done 2 351c swaps into old 68-72's, and I did not use headers on either one, the 70-71 torino pieces flowed fairly well(72-up are garbage....), and for the crossmember problem, I used a rear-sump 400m 4x4 pan for clearance on both. Yeah, the 351c has poor aftermarket support, but a really good rebuild can get 375-400 hp with headers, or 340-350 with good manifolds, and with stock heads. I know this is a windsor forum, the only reason this was suggested, was if he spent some time looking for a car with an engine like this(or even a rebuilt one...), I have bought almost all of mine absolutely dirt cheap, and most ran great even with advancing mileage. Who knows, just keep an eye out.....If I had any vehicles with no emissions worries, I would be out looking for one. I am rather interested in how this truck turns out, I could have some fun with it, and still keep it cheap.
LV, you make me want to keep the 351c, and if mine was a 70 model, I probably would. I had thought about trying some Sanderson Headers, but I wasn't sure if they would fit either.
I have wanted to do the EFI swap for a while, and it will probably take a quite a while...
Sometime, in another Forum you will have to tell what modifications you have done to your 4.0, as I have one in my Mazda as well.
I am glad that I found this site, there is a lot of knowledge here!
All I have done, is drill some holes in the airbox, hone out the mass air flow sensor(it looks a bit bigger, but probably just nicely polished, with my luck), I took a die grinder with a small carbide tip, and ground the throttle body shaft down flat for a few more CFM, K&N filter, and a 'temporary' catless exhaust, 2 1/2 inch from the restrictive y-connection out the back, and a Dynomax hemi super turbo(long case dynomax). The Aerostar 4.0 has a crummy exhaust y-pipe compared to your ranger/mazda, but Summit racing has a high flow stock replacement cat unit for your truck, along with a BBK header and high flow y-pipe kit. couple that with a good 2 1/2 exhaust system, your truck should run pretty well. You could get a larger TB and MAF, and I would recommend a Superchip or Diablo chip( I think I read here that the superchip makes a bit more power in the 4.0 trucks) from the online store here. There is also a BBK Eaton supercharger kit for 4.0's......It won't fit under the hood of my Aerostar, I was going to buy one when I first got it......
Yeah, the sanderson headers have really odd bends to fit a few old trucks and cars, but good quality.......
oops, to keep on the 302 topic.....yeah, it all sounds great, lol...I think this guy got quite a bit of free info, and owes us all a box of twinkies......