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Having an open element air filter next to the radiator can't be good. Thats were it was with the stupid FIPK when when it was on the 97 Cobra.
I have also heard the the open element air cleaners are not good with mass air sensors becuause of fan wash. It doesn't get a smooth or good reading. I do not know if that is true or not.
While investigating the possibility of bypassing the set up, I noticed the proximity of the EGR Valve & decided to stick to my original theory that it both heats & cools.
That cooler air is better is based soundly on simple physics & not really up for debate.
Now, go to air flow. Theoretically, more air is going to produce more HP. Now enter the ECU & it's ability to sense operating input & mod the air/fuel trim to accommodate.
MAP sensor only engines, do not & can not identify the amount of flow, therefore, if air flow is increased to an amount above it's fixed ability to accommodate, you are now uncontrollably over lean! Some people attempt to compensate by increasing octane. Bad Idea. While reducing combustion chamber temps., incomplete ignition is the trade off. Eventually octane must again be increased to run ping free. Till you run out of higher octane options.
Now, MAF engines do actually allow the ECU to accommodate for increases, to a much greater extent & fuel trim is based on actual air flow, but still, cooler is more advantageous.
I guarantee factory designed CAI's are not based on what was laying around at the time the engine was assembled. They have been & still are the method of choice the factory employs to de-tune the engine. But if your MAP only, your options are severely limited by reason of the limitations of the senor. The ECU already has you running at 14.68:1 to start with!
Does everybody know that their engines come intentionally "de-tuned" from the factory? Which is why increasing stock air flow (on engines capable of adapting), bumping stock timing, upgrading Ignition systems to allow increased plug gap & ECU Mods enhance performance?
Why don't they just come like that off the show room floor? Because optimum performance demands optimum maintenance. Preventative as well as when required. History tells them as a rule, that ain't going to happen when they sell the vehicle to John Q. Public. And they are correct! The term Found On Rroad Dead was very popular before detune began. This also coincided w/ Emmissions control implementation.
Personally, I run 87 octane, a 60K volt coil. A side gap copper core plug gapped .012 over stock. 16 BTDC. All synthetic fluids. I leave my Code Reader plugged in under the hood & test regularly. I use a K&N drop in filter in the stock factory CAI. Performance is above average & reliable. Over 20 MPG. How much more can I ask from an 87' 302 daily driver?
I think what you have said here makes really good sense. The detuned from the factory statement is also probably to help avoid so many warranty repairs as well. I basically agree with what your saying, except the KN part. They do not filter as well. That would be cool to be able to run a diagnostic scan anytime you want.
Someone on here actually did that on a diesel. I'm not sure how well it works. I thought it was a cool idea though. I think it was Sycostang.
ya know...ive looked and there seems to be plenty of room to build a true cold air box on the underside of the hood.....and have a small scoop on the top side of hood.....
back when i was a dodge man i had a ram air hood from a company called pro-glass out of indiana.....i tried looking them up to see if they offered a ford version but i think they are out of business now, i cant find a thing on them...
i remember how the hood was made, along with the air box.....i think if someone is willing to sport a small scoop....they could build themselves a real nice true cold air set up....
ya know...ive looked and there seems to be plenty of room to build a true cold air box on the underside of the hood.....and have a small scoop on the top side of hood.....
back when i was a dodge man i had a ram air hood from a company called pro-glass out of indiana.....i tried looking them up to see if they offered a ford version but i think they are out of business now, i cant find a thing on them...
i remember how the hood was made, along with the air box.....i think if someone is willing to sport a small scoop....they could build themselves a real nice true cold air set up....
This is the hood I would like to have along with the ram air setup. If I had a Lightning I would definitely go with this setup. I might consider doing it later on if I end up with a modified engine.
The best ram air system i have seen was on a 71 trans am i had , scoop mounted to the top of the air cleaner with a hole in the hood , with RA IV heads , thats a carbed car , but good set up , the mopars used a similar set up with scoops on the hood & air cleaner that fit tight to the bottom of the hood when closed....Lew
I bet this would work pretty good on the Lightning since its speed density and has the GT40 intake. Its positioned similarly.
Thats true. Even with a screen or grille of some type more crap will get in the air box.
i think even running it into the stock airbox would yield some kind of improvement it would look like some sloppy mess unless the airbox were modified that you could run the tubing from the cowl along the fender into the airbox
Cold air is better because it's "compressed", in the same volume of cold air vs. warm air, the cold air carries more oxigen, liberating more energy in the combustion process. Of course, any intake that allows a better flow, with air entering at higher speeds will also help.
Why some TBs have plumbing to keep them warm? it isn't to heat the incoming air (it goes in so fast it won't be heated anyway), it's to prevent the throttle from getting stuck in cold climate regions, wich would be extremely dangerous, of course.
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