I need some help & was wondering if anyone else has had a problem with their automatic climate control like we're having. My wife's Expedition was having problems with the front blower motor not coming on {the rear or auxillary blower works fine though}. We replaced the EATC control box, AKA- A/C Blower Motor Speed Control, which is Ford p/n 19E624 back in January. While replacing this we noticed the connector at the end of the wiring harness was deformed and partially melted. None the less the heat and air conditioning worked fine until a few weeks ago when the blower motor started to only work occasionally again, and will not come on at all now. I figured maybe the harness was the culprit and replaced the pig-tail and connector with a brand new unit from ford last night. The blower still will not come on though. The display on the dash comes on and you can switch between temperatures, heat or A/C, etc., and the rear heat / A/C works fine. I also checked the fuses that control the blower and they were fine.

Before ordering a new A/C blower speed control box from Ford which is about $130 that they won't take back once it's been plugged in I wanted to see if anyone else had this problem or knows what I might check to try & pinpoint the problem.

 

There is a specific pinpoint diagnostic test to determine what the fault is in the factory service manual. If you care to follow it, someone can post it.

 

A melted connector could be a sign of a shorted wire. need to check all your wires that feed that connector before you spend that kind of cash. I had a similar problem on a t-bird, melted the connector for the turn signal /bright/dimmer switch in the steering column, had a wire with cracked insulation under the dash, would not let the headlights turn on because it was shorting against the metal dash frame.

 

A melted connector is a sign that there was excessive resistance in the circuit for the current that was passing through it.

Could be either too much current for the connector's rating (ie, a short) or a faulty connector. Usually, when a connector has overheated, it only gets worse.

 

A shorted wire upstream is what I'm fearing! And of course all these wires feed into a huge wire loom that's buried behind the dash!

 

OK, I found a test procedure to run, and it's telling me that since I have no power at the EATC control box to test the blower motor relay socket terminal #87 (black w/ green-stripe wire) at the blower / flasher relay block which it says is behind the center of the dash. Does anyone know exactly where it's at and what's the best way to get to it?

 

ProjectSHO89's suggestion of turning on the Hazard 4-way blinkers & following the clicking worked great! The blower relay / flasher box was located behind the dash above the OBD II connector, close to gas pedal. I actually bypassed the procedure's list in testing the black / green-stripe wire and replaced the relay with a spare. I REALLY doubted it would do anything, but I turned the key to 'run' and the front blower came on! I was exstatic! I put everything back together, took it for a test drive and it was blowing out ice cold 42 degree air at the vent!

I also put the EATC control box back where it was supposed to be fastened behind the glove-box (previous owner had it hanging down either when putting in or taking out stereo / TV before selling I'm guessing). I'm not sure if a relay going bad could've made that connector melt or the connector may've melted b/c of the box not being mounted as it should and was maybe bouncing around too much & that messed up the relay, or some inter-relation of all those things, but either way it's fixed now & I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed that it stays working!

 

Hi I am having the exact same issue after I replaced my flashed relay. Can u tell me if the relay that fixed the problem was the one in the same block (beside the flashed relay) or if it was the flashed relay itself is bad. Thank you for your help.

 

The flasher doesn't have anything to do with the climate control. The flasher for your turn signal just happens to be in the same place as the relay for the climate control. Yes it did fix it temporarily, but then the relay quit working and upon inspection the cover was melted a bit. I'm leaning now to the ground being bad. The EATC control box and blower fan ground somewhere over by the kick panel, so I"m wondering if that ground has gotten rusty & is causing the system to pull more amperage, therefore making more head. The system is OK for now, but I told my wife not to run the fan more than half speed. If your turn the fan on high for more than a couple minutes the ground wire (black wire) going into the EATC box gets SUPER hot to the touch!

Ericatp, if you find that ground or anyone else knows any easy way to find it please let me know.

 

If you have 150K on the vehicle, the blower motor may be worn out and creating a high current draw on the circuit.

 

Check for rotted ground studs behind the kick panel on the passenger side.

 

Thanks Lime1GT, I actually replaced the blower motor last week and it helped lower the amperage draw a bit, but not enough to where ground wire's not getting hot.

projectSHO89- I'll check them, what do they look like, studs coming through the metal and the black wire's held onto them with a nut?

 

Yep, pretty much....

 

Does anyone know kind of amperage the motor should be pulling? It's currently abou 2.x Amps on low and 6.x in the mid range. Much beyond that it maxes out my meter (10A max). Due to the wire getting hot I'm assuming it should be much less than that.

 

Hi guys, I hope I am not hijacking this thread. As I said above I have a very similar issue. 2000 Expedition, front blower not working. The AC, automatic control panel and rear AC work normally.

I finally got home and am trouble shooting. Here is where I am at. I have checked and verified I have power and the relay below the the dash by the flasher relay is working. I DO NOT have any power entering the blower motor speed control box below the dash on the right side. I ordered a manual with wiring diagrams but they are not here yet. Can anyone post a trouble shooting guide and or wiring diagram so I can work though this. I am leaning toward the rotary switch in the electronic panel may have gone bad, but I could easily be missing a fuse or something very simple. Without the diagram and a method I am shooting in the dark at this point.

As a reference I am an aircraft mechanic.

Thank you very much.

Eric