I just put in new injectors and return line kit, by the way learned the hard way about the crappy o-rings that come with those kits. Save yourself time and headache and get the Viton o-rings. Anyways, my timing seems to be advanced now after the new injectors and rattles more. There is not a shop around my area that can get it timed correctly. Are there any disadvantages or can I damage anything if it is running a little advanced? Thanks for all your help.

 

Did you pull the ip? if so did you put any scribe lines to put it back in the same place?

 

I did not pull the IP, it has not moved.

 

GOOD!! More help will be along shortly.........

 

steel header; hopefully youre not the impulsive, look before you leap type like some other guys on here ... if you've never done it before, DON"T PULL OFF THE IP YET. wait till these guys tell you what to do. take my word for it.

 

I don't plan on pulling the IP, I don't have the right timing gun and there are no shops close by that can do it for me. My question really is will I cause any damage by running out of time, or will it effect my mileage a bunch? I am getting a little better mileage with the new injectors. Seems to have more power, not a huge difference, but some. I am wondering now if I should crank the fuel up a flat or two?

 

If you don't have a pyrometer I wouldn't mess with the fuel. I am glad you didn't pull the ip. I didn't mean that you should, I just wondered if you had. It will affect your mileage if it is out of time and yes it could do damage. But if the pump was not moved it is likely not out that much other than the normal amount do to the wearing of the gears. You say the power is up and the mileage so it is probably good but if you are still concerned take it to a shop (if you can find one).

 

Loosen the 3 nuts holding the IP just enough to be able to move the pump with a little force, snug the top one a little to prevent movement.

Start the truck and apply 12v+ to the Cold start advance connector (Towards the rear of the truck) on the IP.

Now loosen the top IP bolt just enough to move the IP with a little force... Now rotate the IP in the direction needed ... one line width is about 1 degree.

Rotating the top of the IP towards the right side of the truck advances the timing, towards the left retards ...

The goal is to get a slight Powerstroke like rattle when hitting the go pedal with the cold start advance on and no rattle with it off ... It takes practice to get it right.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

it takes practice to make it "close".it takes a timing meter to make it "right".
but iv no meter either lol.

 

That would be a matter of opinion, some say doing it by ear can give the motor what it wants better by ear then with tools and specs!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

maybe so.that would require;
1.one advanced idi guru (like yourself) to time it by ear.
2.one advanced idi guru with a timing meter (like Mel) to time one.
3.one dyno machine
4.10 tanks of fuel each between timings with no other changes to the truck,driven by a 3rd party person clueless as to the test.

i would guess,the ones claiming by ear is best,likely haven't "really" compared between the two to know.
all theory now of course.as personally iv no clue either way.iv been reading Mel's stuff pretty hard lately.i think he's sold me a moose pump and just doesn't know it yet.

 

The way I do it is losen the bottom two bolts make sure the top is good and tight run it till its hot losen the top so you can move it with a pry bar run 12v to the cold start advance and turn it till it sounds like a stroke at idle with 12v on the cold start advance and like a IDI with out 12v to the cold start advance. Ok so maybe I'm lazy and turn it till it sounds like a stroke with no cold start advance then back it off till it sounds like an IDI but it does the exact same thing.

But more importantly are you sure you put the right injectors in? are they the same letter code as the ones you removed? and did you pop test the new ones befor you put them in? The reason I ask is because it sounds like the new injectors are poping at a lover presure then the old ones causing them to pop sooner. In other words you may have installed lower HP injector. But you still can just adjust the timing to make it run right.

 

Whoa ... I didn't say "I" ... I said "some"!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I've try'd both ways and it works much better by ear in my opinion. All the guys at work that were around back in the day agree all 2 of them.

 

Ear versus timing meter.

More than one person has reported their harmonic balancer TDC mark is not in the correct place when it is installed while the timing gear cover is off so you can see the timing marks on the gears.

With that taken into consideration, when you use a timing tool, you are relying on those marks to be in the correct location.

If the harmonic balancer is off, with a timing meter the timing will be off.

So now the question as to which method is better comes down to what condition is the harmonic balancer in and how good is your ear?

From my rebuild, I know my TDC mark is off about 3 degrees.
Even though my ears are failing, I know I can get closer than 3 degrees by ear.

If you make a bar to bolt to the IP so you can make very small adjustments, with a little time you can fine tune the timing for where your engine runs the best.

You just don't want to have that Power Stroke rattle while driving normally once the engine is warm.