Yolk torque
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: north county S.D
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="6" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td width="100%">
</td> <td valign="top" nowrap="nowrap"> Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 10,727
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <!-- / user info --> <!-- message, attachments, sig --> <!-- message --> When you put the nut back on tighten it to about 15 inch lbs movement with the hubs off. Do not over tighten or you will need to replace the collapsible spacer again and start over.
Use a new collapsible spacer and nut.
Do not use a impact wrench on the rear end!
Holding the flange while you tighten the nut (240 FT Lbs. APX to get the 15 inch lbs):
Checking for 15 inch lbs movement:
</td> <td valign="top" nowrap="nowrap"> Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 10,727
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <!-- / user info --> <!-- message, attachments, sig --> <!-- message --> When you put the nut back on tighten it to about 15 inch lbs movement with the hubs off. Do not over tighten or you will need to replace the collapsible spacer again and start over.
Use a new collapsible spacer and nut.
Do not use a impact wrench on the rear end!
Holding the flange while you tighten the nut (240 FT Lbs. APX to get the 15 inch lbs):
Checking for 15 inch lbs movement:
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: north county S.D
By the book on the flange:
Drive Pinion Flange
Special Service Tool(s)
2-Jaw Puller
205-D072 (D97L-4221-A) or Equivalent
Companion Flange Holding Tool
205-126 (T78P-4851-A)
Companion Flange Replacer
205-002 (TOOL-4858-E) or Equivalent
Removal
1. Note:
The rear wheels (1007) and brake drums (1126)/calipers (2552) must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.
Remove the rear brake drums/calipers.
2. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.
3. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft (4602).
Wire the driveshaft out of the way.
4. Install an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion nut and record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.
5. CAUTION:
After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.
Use the special tool to hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion nut.
6. Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment during installation.
7. Use the special tool to remove the pinion flange.
Installation
1. Lubricate the pinion flange splines.
Use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
2. Note:
Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.
Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.
3. With the drive pinion in place in the rear axle housing (4010), install the pinion flange using the special tool.
4. Position the new pinion nut.
5. CAUTION:
Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.
CAUTION:
Remove the special tool while taking preload readings with the Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.
Using the special tool hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut.
Rotate the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the pinion through several revolutions, take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded. Refer to Torque Specifications in this section.
6. Position the rear driveshaft and align the marks on the pinion flange.
7. Install the four driveshaft pinion flange bolts.
8. Install the rear brake drums/calipers.
Pinion Seal
Special Service Tool(s)
Pinion Seal Replacer
205-208 (T83T-4676-A)
Removal
1. Remove the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
2. Force up on the metal flange of the rear axle drive pinion seal (4676). Install gripping pliers and strike with a hammer until the rear axle pinion seal is removed.
Removing pinion seal:
Installation
1. Lubricate the new rear axle drive pinion seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
2. CAUTION:
If the rear axle drive pinion seal becomes misaligned during installation, remove the rear axle drive pinion seal and install a new seal.
Use the special tool to install the rear axle drive pinion seal.
3. Install the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
Drive Pinion Flange
Special Service Tool(s)
2-Jaw Puller
205-D072 (D97L-4221-A) or Equivalent
Companion Flange Holding Tool
205-126 (T78P-4851-A)
Companion Flange Replacer
205-002 (TOOL-4858-E) or Equivalent
Removal
1. Note:
The rear wheels (1007) and brake drums (1126)/calipers (2552) must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.
Remove the rear brake drums/calipers.
2. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.
3. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft (4602).
Wire the driveshaft out of the way.
4. Install an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion nut and record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.
5. CAUTION:
After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.
Use the special tool to hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion nut.
6. Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment during installation.
7. Use the special tool to remove the pinion flange.
Installation
1. Lubricate the pinion flange splines.
Use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
2. Note:
Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.
Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.
3. With the drive pinion in place in the rear axle housing (4010), install the pinion flange using the special tool.
4. Position the new pinion nut.
5. CAUTION:
Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.
CAUTION:
Remove the special tool while taking preload readings with the Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.
Using the special tool hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut.
Rotate the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the pinion through several revolutions, take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded. Refer to Torque Specifications in this section.
6. Position the rear driveshaft and align the marks on the pinion flange.
7. Install the four driveshaft pinion flange bolts.
8. Install the rear brake drums/calipers.
Pinion Seal
Special Service Tool(s)
Pinion Seal Replacer
205-208 (T83T-4676-A)
Removal
1. Remove the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
2. Force up on the metal flange of the rear axle drive pinion seal (4676). Install gripping pliers and strike with a hammer until the rear axle pinion seal is removed.
Removing pinion seal:
Installation
1. Lubricate the new rear axle drive pinion seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
2. CAUTION:
If the rear axle drive pinion seal becomes misaligned during installation, remove the rear axle drive pinion seal and install a new seal.
Use the special tool to install the rear axle drive pinion seal.
3. Install the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 2
From: Albemarle, NC
STOP!!!! First things first what rear end do you have????? if its a sterling, the above info is correct. If its a dana 80 is had NO crush sleve and no pinion pre-load per say and the nut torques to 460 ft lbs.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 419
Likes: 3
By the book on the flange:
Drive Pinion Flange
Special Service Tool(s)
2-Jaw Puller
205-D072 (D97L-4221-A) or Equivalent
Companion Flange Holding Tool
205-126 (T78P-4851-A)
Companion Flange Replacer
205-002 (TOOL-4858-E) or Equivalent
Removal
1. Note:
The rear wheels (1007) and brake drums (1126)/calipers (2552) must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.
Remove the rear brake drums/calipers.
2. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.
3. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft (4602).
Wire the driveshaft out of the way.
4. Install an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion nut and record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.
5. CAUTION:
After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.
Use the special tool to hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion nut.
6. Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment during installation.
7. Use the special tool to remove the pinion flange.
Installation
1. Lubricate the pinion flange splines.
Use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
2. Note:
Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.
Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.
3. With the drive pinion in place in the rear axle housing (4010), install the pinion flange using the special tool.
4. Position the new pinion nut.
5. CAUTION:
Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.
CAUTION:
Remove the special tool while taking preload readings with the Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.
Using the special tool hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut.
Rotate the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the pinion through several revolutions, take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded. Refer to Torque Specifications in this section.
6. Position the rear driveshaft and align the marks on the pinion flange.
7. Install the four driveshaft pinion flange bolts.
8. Install the rear brake drums/calipers.
Pinion Seal
Special Service Tool(s)
Pinion Seal Replacer
205-208 (T83T-4676-A)
Removal
1. Remove the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
2. Force up on the metal flange of the rear axle drive pinion seal (4676). Install gripping pliers and strike with a hammer until the rear axle pinion seal is removed.
Removing pinion seal:
Installation
1. Lubricate the new rear axle drive pinion seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
2. CAUTION:
If the rear axle drive pinion seal becomes misaligned during installation, remove the rear axle drive pinion seal and install a new seal.
Use the special tool to install the rear axle drive pinion seal.
3. Install the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
Drive Pinion Flange
Special Service Tool(s)
2-Jaw Puller
205-D072 (D97L-4221-A) or Equivalent
Companion Flange Holding Tool
205-126 (T78P-4851-A)
Companion Flange Replacer
205-002 (TOOL-4858-E) or Equivalent
Removal
1. Note:
The rear wheels (1007) and brake drums (1126)/calipers (2552) must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.
Remove the rear brake drums/calipers.
2. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.
3. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft (4602).
Wire the driveshaft out of the way.
4. Install an inch-pound torque wrench on the pinion nut and record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.
5. CAUTION:
After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.
Use the special tool to hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion nut.
6. Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment during installation.
7. Use the special tool to remove the pinion flange.
Installation
1. Lubricate the pinion flange splines.
Use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
2. Note:
Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.
Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.
3. With the drive pinion in place in the rear axle housing (4010), install the pinion flange using the special tool.
4. Position the new pinion nut.
5. CAUTION:
Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.
CAUTION:
Remove the special tool while taking preload readings with the Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.
Using the special tool hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut.
Rotate the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the pinion through several revolutions, take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded. Refer to Torque Specifications in this section.
6. Position the rear driveshaft and align the marks on the pinion flange.
7. Install the four driveshaft pinion flange bolts.
8. Install the rear brake drums/calipers.
Pinion Seal
Special Service Tool(s)
Pinion Seal Replacer
205-208 (T83T-4676-A)
Removal
1. Remove the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
2. Force up on the metal flange of the rear axle drive pinion seal (4676). Install gripping pliers and strike with a hammer until the rear axle pinion seal is removed.
Removing pinion seal:
Installation
1. Lubricate the new rear axle drive pinion seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
2. CAUTION:
If the rear axle drive pinion seal becomes misaligned during installation, remove the rear axle drive pinion seal and install a new seal.
Use the special tool to install the rear axle drive pinion seal.
3. Install the pinion flange. For additional information, refer to Drive Pinion Flange above.
So this is the proper procedure for the 10.5" rearend? I have a 06 F350 SRW 4x4 that needs the pinion seal changed out. So I would have the Sterling 10.5" rearend?
Thanks in advance.
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Never torque em'
Egg yolk torque? I don't bother with it, I just eat them.
All those fancy torque specs and new crush sleeves are fine if you are setting up some new gears and bearings in a dry rear end but for just replacing a seal on the vehicle it is best and easiest to take the nut off, clean it up, put loc-tite on it, leave the old crush sleeve in and slowly run the nut down until there is a little drag on the yoke. Done! I know people with no experience will chime in and say I'm wrong but this will beat any other method and work fine for many years to come. The pinion bearings just need a little drag to assure they are snug. The pinion bearings wear a bit and the old crush sleeve has a little spring to it so with the combination of these two things you can easily attain a good drag after replacing the seal. Run the nut down slowly though and check for drag often so you don't have to back off.
All those fancy torque specs and new crush sleeves are fine if you are setting up some new gears and bearings in a dry rear end but for just replacing a seal on the vehicle it is best and easiest to take the nut off, clean it up, put loc-tite on it, leave the old crush sleeve in and slowly run the nut down until there is a little drag on the yoke. Done! I know people with no experience will chime in and say I'm wrong but this will beat any other method and work fine for many years to come. The pinion bearings just need a little drag to assure they are snug. The pinion bearings wear a bit and the old crush sleeve has a little spring to it so with the combination of these two things you can easily attain a good drag after replacing the seal. Run the nut down slowly though and check for drag often so you don't have to back off.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
Likes: 5
From: Corvallis, OR
Take it to a shop if you don't know how to properly set up the pinion bearing preload, otherwise you're risking a major differential failure later on. Also, its hot out, your seal could be burping because of a clogged vent. Make sure the differential vent is clear, pull the tube down from frame that comes from the top of the differential housing and see if you can blow air into it with your mouth, if it's plugged up with mud or bee nest crap that can be the cause of your leak.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 419
Likes: 3
Take it to a shop if you don't know how to properly set up the pinion bearing preload, otherwise you're risking a major differential failure later on. Also, its hot out, your seal could be burping because of a clogged vent. Make sure the differential vent is clear, pull the tube down from frame that comes from the top of the differential housing and see if you can blow air into it with your mouth, if it's plugged up with mud or bee nest crap that can be the cause of your leak.
You're absolutely right about destroying a rearend if you don't know what you're doing. I've always done the rearend work on my cars over the years. I've also installed ring and pinion gearsets. Here's the latest buildup I did for my 1970 Mustang.
My vent isn't clogged. The seal has been weeping a bit for a while and now is starting to leave drops on the ground after long drives. I have 120,000 miles. My dad's 06 F250 had the pinion start leaking at the same mileage. I just wanted to make sure that I had the 10.5 rear axle and that was the correct service info before I pulled the pinion flange off.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Take it to a shop if you don't know how to properly set up the pinion bearing preload, otherwise you're risking a major differential failure later on. Also, its hot out, your seal could be burping because of a clogged vent. Make sure the differential vent is clear, pull the tube down from frame that comes from the top of the differential housing and see if you can blow air into it with your mouth, if it's plugged up with mud or bee nest crap that can be the cause of your leak.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Take it to a shop if you don't know how to properly set up the pinion bearing preload, otherwise you're risking a major differential failure later on. Also, its hot out, your seal could be burping because of a clogged vent. Make sure the differential vent is clear, pull the tube down from frame that comes from the top of the differential housing and see if you can blow air into it with your mouth, if it's plugged up with mud or bee nest crap that can be the cause of your leak.
Just do what I said in post 8 and everything will be fine.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
Likes: 5
From: Corvallis, OR
I wouldn't say no risk of failure. You are right in that it would take a lot of effort to get it too tight because of the force required to compress the crush sleeve, but it would be very easy to leave it too loose. With used bearings the goal is to tighten them to 2-3 in-lbs more preload than before disassembly. I'm no going to say any more on this thread, but definitely don't call it nothing. Keep in mind, EXv10 is the same guy that advocates running the engine for a minute or two with no oil in it during changes... 
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I wouldn't say no risk of failure. You are right in that it would take a lot of effort to get it too tight because of the force required to compress the crush sleeve, but it would be very easy to leave it too loose. With used bearings the goal is to tighten them to 2-3 in-lbs more preload than before disassembly. I'm no going to say any more on this thread, but definitely don't call it nothing. Keep in mind, EXv10 is the same guy that advocates running the engine for a minute or two with no oil in it during changes...
