Yolk torque
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
Likes: 5
From: Corvallis, OR
I would not use RTV on the splines, you want the yoke to freely tighten onto the splines and anything in between other than light oil could change the force required to tighten the yoke on. I would use some RTV on the outer sealing surface of the new seal, where it has the red sealant pre-applied. I neglected to do this and have a slight weep between the seal and differential housing. The rotating sealing surface itself seals, but it weeps around the seal.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
OP; These guys obviously aren't mechanics. One says take it to a garage and the other gives mis-information so maybe another mechanic will chime in but just do like I said and your diff will last for many years.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I thought you weren't going to post on this thread anymore. 
Maybe you should stick with your egg yolks and let the pros deal with the yokes.
Maybe you should stick with your egg yolks and let the pros deal with the yokes.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 539
Likes: 25
From: Atlanta
I am not a gambler. It has been my experience that a 16th of a turn has no ill effect on used bearings. They like a little preload. I have seen more bearing failure from under torque. Like I said, just my experience. Have a nice day. Oh and about the rtv. That is just a habit I got into after having a few leak thru there mostly chevy 10 bolts.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I am not a gambler. It has been my experience that a 16th of a turn has no ill effect on used bearings. They like a little preload. I have seen more bearing failure from under torque. Like I said, just my experience. Have a nice day. Oh and about the rtv. That is just a habit I got into after having a few leak thru there mostly chevy 10 bolts.
I can see where RTV would be beneficial with some yoke/pinion designs that have a leaking problem.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Sorry for opening up an old post but here it goes..I have done a lot of reading on the pre-load and setting the yoke torque (crush sleeve)..but I keep getting confused on the same thing..
I am re-gearing so I understand I cannot just count turns on the nut and put it back on..I wish it was that easy.
So, you put a big bar on the pinion nut and find a way to hold the flange..
Then I do some heavy duty turning of the nut (200-400 foot pounds ) until the slack or wiggle is out..
Then ( this is where I get lost) some how the nut will loosen up (turn easier) and then I shift to inch pounds????
I feel like an idiot. What am I missing?
I need to re-gear a 10.25 from 3.73 to 4.10 but cannot afford to have a shop do it. So I have to do it on my own with the help of the experts on this site.
The truck will be a mud truck and not a DD.
Thank you
I am re-gearing so I understand I cannot just count turns on the nut and put it back on..I wish it was that easy.
So, you put a big bar on the pinion nut and find a way to hold the flange..
Then I do some heavy duty turning of the nut (200-400 foot pounds ) until the slack or wiggle is out..
Then ( this is where I get lost) some how the nut will loosen up (turn easier) and then I shift to inch pounds????
I feel like an idiot. What am I missing?
I need to re-gear a 10.25 from 3.73 to 4.10 but cannot afford to have a shop do it. So I have to do it on my own with the help of the experts on this site.
The truck will be a mud truck and not a DD.
Thank you
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon
The inch pounds is rotational torque! after you torque the nut to 240 ft lbs. take everything off wheels, brake rotors, then put a inch pound torque wrench on the yolk and rotate it. the amount of torque for rotation should be 15-20 inch pounds
if it is below 15 inch pounds for rotating then tighten the pinon nut 5-10 ft lbs more then check the rotation torque again keep doing this until proper rotational torque is achieved
if it is below 15 inch pounds for rotating then tighten the pinon nut 5-10 ft lbs more then check the rotation torque again keep doing this until proper rotational torque is achieved
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Sorry for opening up an old post but here it goes..I have done a lot of reading on the pre-load and setting the yoke torque (crush sleeve)..but I keep getting confused on the same thing..
I am re-gearing so I understand I cannot just count turns on the nut and put it back on..I wish it was that easy.
So, you put a big bar on the pinion nut and find a way to hold the flange..
Then I do some heavy duty turning of the nut (200-400 foot pounds ) until the slack or wiggle is out..
Then ( this is where I get lost) some how the nut will loosen up (turn easier) and then I shift to inch pounds????
I feel like an idiot. What am I missing?
I need to re-gear a 10.25 from 3.73 to 4.10 but cannot afford to have a shop do it. So I have to do it on my own with the help of the experts on this site.
The truck will be a mud truck and not a DD.
Thank you
I am re-gearing so I understand I cannot just count turns on the nut and put it back on..I wish it was that easy.
So, you put a big bar on the pinion nut and find a way to hold the flange..
Then I do some heavy duty turning of the nut (200-400 foot pounds ) until the slack or wiggle is out..
Then ( this is where I get lost) some how the nut will loosen up (turn easier) and then I shift to inch pounds????
I feel like an idiot. What am I missing?
I need to re-gear a 10.25 from 3.73 to 4.10 but cannot afford to have a shop do it. So I have to do it on my own with the help of the experts on this site.
The truck will be a mud truck and not a DD.
Thank you
All that inch pound stuff is just a specification that is a reference for a diff on a bench with new bearings etc. Just tighten the crush sleeve until there is a slight drag on the pinion and a gaurantee you there will be no problem. The pinion just needs to run snug to alleviate any slop and the sleeve is to keep the nut tight. Trust me; I have put hundreds or rear ends together. Don't feel like an idiot; it can be intimidating, especially when non mechanics start throwing factory inch pound specs in there. Also, taking "everything off" will have no effect.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
The inch pounds is rotational torque! after you torque the nut to 240 ft lbs. take everything off wheels, brake rotors, then put a inch pound torque wrench on the yolk and rotate it. the amount of torque for rotation should be 15-20 inch pounds
if it is below 15 inch pounds for rotating then tighten the pinon nut 5-10 ft lbs more then check the rotation torque again keep doing this until proper rotational torque is achieved
if it is below 15 inch pounds for rotating then tighten the pinon nut 5-10 ft lbs more then check the rotation torque again keep doing this until proper rotational torque is achieved
ooooohh I get it now. To increase rotational drag you increase nut torque. I need to get the drag to 5-15 and to do that I have to tighten the nut to do it.
The nut will not get easier, I tighten the nut until I a reasonable rotational drag. WOW!! Thank YOU very much.
EXv10-I don't have an inch pound torque wrench so I will use your advise to get me that final few inches.
Thanks again
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon
First of all, don't listen to anyone that spells yoke like an egg yolk. Also, it won't suddenly turn easier.
All that inch pound stuff is just a specification that is a reference for a diff on a bench with new bearings etc. Just tighten the crush sleeve until there is a slight drag on the pinion and a gaurantee you there will be no problem. The pinion just needs to run snug to alleviate any slop and the sleeve is to keep the nut tight. Trust me; I have put hundreds or rear ends together. Don't feel like an idiot; it can be intimidating, especially when non mechanics start throwing factory inch pound specs in there. Also, taking "everything off" as djanzen states above, will have ZERO effect on your pinion drag.
All that inch pound stuff is just a specification that is a reference for a diff on a bench with new bearings etc. Just tighten the crush sleeve until there is a slight drag on the pinion and a gaurantee you there will be no problem. The pinion just needs to run snug to alleviate any slop and the sleeve is to keep the nut tight. Trust me; I have put hundreds or rear ends together. Don't feel like an idiot; it can be intimidating, especially when non mechanics start throwing factory inch pound specs in there. Also, taking "everything off" as djanzen states above, will have ZERO effect on your pinion drag.
you have the experience of hundreds of diff (so you say!) with that you know how to cheat, or know by feel how to do a diff, very good for you!
But these guys do not and telling them how to do it by short-cutting without experience is not the correct way to learn! I'll bet your first times you had a book or someone beside you teaching you. once again these guys don't. so they need to know the correct way to do things! A then you try to insult the rest of us for giving him the correct info buy telling him we are non mechanics ( by the way I have worked for a caterpillar dealer for the last 15 years and put my fair share of diffs together and always use the proper set up procedure) and then insult are intelligence on the way we spell, that is why we are mechanics not English teachers.
You need to know these guys are asking for the correct way the book says to do this! that is what we gave them. Do not bash us for that. do like your mother says if you do not have something nice to say, say nothing at all.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
He doesn't need to know the correct factory specs and probably doesn't own an inch pound wrench, he just wants to get his truck running without shelling out a lot of cash. I am fully aware of the inch pound specs etc. but I HAVE put hundreds of diffs together and all you need is a little drag on the pinion for it to work fine. It's not like he is going to rebuild new diffs on a bench with all the specs and tools right there. Also, so far everyone that has spelled yoke wrong has given mis-information. Anyone that works closely with yokes for years won't spell it wrong. Can you imagine a gun dealer spelling bullet like boolit (it ain't going to happen). Also the fact that you say the spinning periferals at the rear will affect the inch pound value tells me that you don't have a lot of experience in this area, otherwise; sorry to offend you. OP; keep your torque wrenches in your tool box this time. I have seen many used diffs that range from tight drag to no drag and they all are working fine, it's not that critical. OP; pm me if you need some help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
ooooohh I get it now. To increase rotational drag you increase nut torque. I need to get the drag to 5-15 and to do that I have to tighten the nut to do it.
The nut will not get easier, I tighten the nut until I a reasonable rotational drag. WOW!! Thank YOU very much.
EXv10-I don't have an inch pound torque wrench so I will use your advise to get me that final few inches.
Thanks again
The nut will not get easier, I tighten the nut until I a reasonable rotational drag. WOW!! Thank YOU very much.
EXv10-I don't have an inch pound torque wrench so I will use your advise to get me that final few inches.
Thanks again