air bag install
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
any idea if these bags could hold the weight of the rear of our trucks plus a trailer? i am looking at doing full bags in the rear and this is an option i have not visited yet! the weight rating, is that 5000lbs per bag? or per pair?
-cutts-
-cutts-
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 0
From: emporium
each bag is rated for 5k. i just drove across country last weekend from NM to PA with a three car hauler, 1 car and a shipping container with everything i owned in it. weight ticket was 25,487 lbs. truck never even squated with 70 psi in the bags.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,231
Likes: 130
From: Thomasville, GA
They make a full air suspension kit, front and rear or just one or the other, for our trucks and the SD's
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
The spacer for the overload springs is what I used for the lower bracket to level it.
The bracket in the pic in the front of the bracket is not large enough to level it.
Mountaineer, If you like I can send you my leftover pieces so you can level that lower bracket out. I only used 1/2 of them. You can have the other two if you want.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 8
From: Hutchinson, KS
Yes they do make them for overload springs also. The kit I used was for this setup or with overload springs.
The spacer for the overload springs is what I used for the lower bracket to level it.
The bracket in the pic in the front of the bracket is not large enough to level it.
Mountaineer, If you like I can send you my leftover pieces so you can level that lower bracket out. I only used 1/2 of them. You can have the other two if you want.
The spacer for the overload springs is what I used for the lower bracket to level it.
The bracket in the pic in the front of the bracket is not large enough to level it.
Mountaineer, If you like I can send you my leftover pieces so you can level that lower bracket out. I only used 1/2 of them. You can have the other two if you want.
Do you have any pics of them installed? I'm starting to install right now and trying to decide where I need the spacers. Looks to me at first glance I need spacers in the front under the bottom to bring both it and the top brackets level. No spacer on the back at all. This is because the axle/springs slope downward towards the. Am I correct on this?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 8
From: Hutchinson, KS
Yeah, I went back and looked at that after posting. I've got the Firestone kit and have overloads, that's why I was wondering about how Neal mounted his. Just came back in from the shop and the best (leveled) brackets for mine are to have the 1/2" shim/brace up front and nothing in the back. This gets the top bracket perfectly level with the top of the frame in that section.
Got the 4 holes center punched on the drivers side but haven't done the pass side yet. Will finish up install tomorrow night.
Got the 4 holes center punched on the drivers side but haven't done the pass side yet. Will finish up install tomorrow night.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
No I do not have overload springs but you sound like you have it under control. You do need to shim the front more than the rear due to the slope of the springs.
I have the firestone kit also.
I have the firestone kit also.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 8
From: Hutchinson, KS
Thanks Neal. Since I have the overloads, there's not enough room between the overload and the spring pack to use the 1" shim/brace for the bottom of the carriage bolts. Nothing a cut off wheel can't fix though.
For where to drill the holes in the frame, I went about it alittle differently than the instructions say to. I just found the centerline of the axle on the side of the frame. Also found the center distance for the mounting holes for the top bracket. Then made sure that the top of the bracket holes were 1 1/2" down from the inside top of the frame. Sits level, still have the proper height it needs, and was WAY easier than positioning everything from the bottom up like the insturction call for.
For where to drill the holes in the frame, I went about it alittle differently than the instructions say to. I just found the centerline of the axle on the side of the frame. Also found the center distance for the mounting holes for the top bracket. Then made sure that the top of the bracket holes were 1 1/2" down from the inside top of the frame. Sits level, still have the proper height it needs, and was WAY easier than positioning everything from the bottom up like the insturction call for.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
I hear ya Ryan. I just stuck mine in there and was sure to keep it off the top and bottom. I just eyeballed the fore/aft position. There is plenty of adjustment to make it line up good.
With your setup I might be tempted to make a spacer that fits your application between the overloads and the spring pack. Then use one of the spacers it came with on the front just to make it level.
With your setup I might be tempted to make a spacer that fits your application between the overloads and the spring pack. Then use one of the spacers it came with on the front just to make it level.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
What about with a gooseneck
I've read that I can't install the bags with my b&w turn over. Can you? I was thinking about cutting up the upper bag brackets and welding them to my side plates for my hitch. Any ideas or experiences.
p.s. I searched out side of the 94.5-97 psd forum...what a mistake I will never stray again!!! You guys rock.
p.s. I searched out side of the 94.5-97 psd forum...what a mistake I will never stray again!!! You guys rock.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,410
Likes: 77
From: Plankinton, SD
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