Suspension idea...
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
Suspension idea...
This may be an awesome idea, or the craziest/dumbest thing you ever heard... Here goes.
I'm wanting to design an air suspension for the rear based on that of a semi. I'll add some pictures in a bit.
What i'm wanting to do is use 2"x3"x1/4" wall tubing to come back from the front hanger and drop behind the axle, leaving room for the air bag. One side will also have a mount for the panhard bar.
The leveling valve will mount wherever is convenient. The air will be provided by my York compressor.
What do you all think of this? Where are the weak points, and what is overkill? Help me fine tune this please! (If it is feasible in the first place...)
I'm wanting to design an air suspension for the rear based on that of a semi. I'll add some pictures in a bit.
What i'm wanting to do is use 2"x3"x1/4" wall tubing to come back from the front hanger and drop behind the axle, leaving room for the air bag. One side will also have a mount for the panhard bar.
The leveling valve will mount wherever is convenient. The air will be provided by my York compressor.
What do you all think of this? Where are the weak points, and what is overkill? Help me fine tune this please! (If it is feasible in the first place...)
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 4
From: Elk City, OK
2 link basically. its the same setup they have on the newer tahoe's except they use 4 links total. the biggest issue with that, is as the air bag goes up and down, it changes your pinion angle radically. thats why 4 links are used now. they used setups like that on pre 71 chevy pickups. coil over though. why not just build a 4 link? thats next on my list.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
I'm not sure i'm capable of building a 4 link... I was thinking if this system has worked for semis for millions of miles, it would work for me. And actually, the distance between the axle and the front hanger would be greater on my truck, so i think the angle would change less.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
I'm going with a similar system on my F250, basically I am going to replicate the Chevy system with a few alterations- I am going to run arms forward to just behind the center support bearing, about 18" apart at that point, and back to the original perches in the rear, with airbags behind the axle. The panhard rod is the easy part, a pair of heim joints and a piece of tube. Make it close to the length you think you'll need, and then adjust it to be right at the proper ride height.
As far as airbags and the leveling valve, you can get that stuff at any truck dealership or online. Most dealerships have a Firestone catalog so you can select the exact airbags you need for your application. The leveling valves aren't cheap, but not too expensive either, $60-$100 typically.
You will need a swaybar as well, especially if you are towing.
Make sure you gusset the welds on the mounting tubes, there will be a lot of stress there and it would kind of suck to have it fail.
As far as airbags and the leveling valve, you can get that stuff at any truck dealership or online. Most dealerships have a Firestone catalog so you can select the exact airbags you need for your application. The leveling valves aren't cheap, but not too expensive either, $60-$100 typically.
You will need a swaybar as well, especially if you are towing.
Make sure you gusset the welds on the mounting tubes, there will be a lot of stress there and it would kind of suck to have it fail.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
Just remeber to bolt all the hardware to the frame, no welding. The steel has been treated and welding on it will change the hardness etc. Ever notice how the frames are rivoted not welded. This is due to the fact that rivots or bolts will handle the constant flew of the truck welding will not.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Check out this website:
Road Tamer Air Suspension System by Air Lift
they make kits like what you're wanting, just not for our years, gives you some good ideas though if you wanted to make it, looks pretty straight forward.
Road Tamer Air Suspension System by Air Lift
they make kits like what you're wanting, just not for our years, gives you some good ideas though if you wanted to make it, looks pretty straight forward.
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 4
From: Terre Haute, IN
I'm going with a similar system on my F250, basically I am going to replicate the Chevy system with a few alterations- I am going to run arms forward to just behind the center support bearing, about 18" apart at that point, and back to the original perches in the rear, with airbags behind the axle. The panhard rod is the easy part, a pair of heim joints and a piece of tube. Make it close to the length you think you'll need, and then adjust it to be right at the proper ride height.
As far as airbags and the leveling valve, you can get that stuff at any truck dealership or online. Most dealerships have a Firestone catalog so you can select the exact airbags you need for your application. The leveling valves aren't cheap, but not too expensive either, $60-$100 typically.
You will need a swaybar as well, especially if you are towing.
Make sure you gusset the welds on the mounting tubes, there will be a lot of stress there and it would kind of suck to have it fail.
As far as airbags and the leveling valve, you can get that stuff at any truck dealership or online. Most dealerships have a Firestone catalog so you can select the exact airbags you need for your application. The leveling valves aren't cheap, but not too expensive either, $60-$100 typically.
You will need a swaybar as well, especially if you are towing.
Make sure you gusset the welds on the mounting tubes, there will be a lot of stress there and it would kind of suck to have it fail.
Another little trick i was going to add was a dump valve to make loading the bed easier.
Just remeber to bolt all the hardware to the frame, no welding. The steel has been treated and welding on it will change the hardness etc. Ever notice how the frames are rivoted not welded. This is due to the fact that rivots or bolts will handle the constant flew of the truck welding will not.
(The dumba** previous owner welded the rear bumper and a hitch to the frame. I'm going to have to grind it back down. I'm also going to make a custom hitch to bolt on the rear)
Check out this website:
Road Tamer Air Suspension System by Air Lift
they make kits like what you're wanting, just not for our years, gives you some good ideas though if you wanted to make it, looks pretty straight forward.
Road Tamer Air Suspension System by Air Lift
they make kits like what you're wanting, just not for our years, gives you some good ideas though if you wanted to make it, looks pretty straight forward.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,789
Likes: 5
From: Sand GAp, KY
Welding to the axle tubes would be fine. Just remember they are thicker than the metal you will be welding to them and you wil want to preheat them a little so you get good penetration and not over heat the thinner material.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon
you need to join PSN just for this project
The user me2 has done extensive research and testing on this.
Problem with air ride suspension... sort of... long - Powerstroke Nation this is the link to his thread there.
Good luck! have fun BE SAFE IN YOUR TESTING.
The user me2 has done extensive research and testing on this.
Problem with air ride suspension... sort of... long - Powerstroke Nation this is the link to his thread there.
Good luck! have fun BE SAFE IN YOUR TESTING.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown, Md
Planned on it. But thanks for mentioning it. I can't weld cast iron, but would it be ok to weld on the steel axle tubes? I don't think i'll need to, but just in case...
(The dumba** previous owner welded the rear bumper and a hitch to the frame. I'm going to have to grind it back down. I'm also going to make a custom hitch to bolt on the rear).