Has anyone ever tried an aftermarket oil cooler like the ones from bullet proof diesel or diesel site (which cost betwwen 1000 to 2000)? I have read a lot of helpful information on this site about egr/oil cooler problems and looks like the root of the problem is the oil cooler acting like a filter for the coolant. I have to have my HPOP changed, just wondering if it would be a good investment to put on with the engine torn apart to change the HPOP. My truck is a 05 with 74k, only thing done to it is a banks intake and exhaust. Just want to hear some input before I spend cash on the cooler if it's not needed. I'm planning on flushing the coolant and installing a coolant filter once I get the truck back.

 

I have seen the Bulletproof model but not the Dieselsite. I did not know they made one. They are quite expensive and a lot of work to install. The oem cooler works quite well when it is fed clean, proper type and proper PH level coolant. Re-occurring failures in properly diagnosed and repaired trucks are somewhat rare. Install an oem cooler and the coolant filter and spend the significant savings on instrumentation. That alone will do more for keeping your reliability level up than any other mods. If you have the engine down to the HPOP, make sure you install the upgraded outlet fitting on the HPOP pump. The stock STC fitting is failure prone. I know you already own the Banks intake but you should consider returning to stock. The stock filter assy has been independently tested against all aftermarkets and came out the winner in both filtration capability and capacity. It takes over 500 hp at 3700 rpm for any am filter to out flow the stocker.

Regards

 

Once I flush the coolant would you put a new oem oil cooler one or keep the old one?
Thanks

 

If it were me with a 2005, I would replace the EGR cooler with the Bulletproof version and put in a new oil cooler while you are in there.

 

You can not successfully back flush/front flush the oil cooler. The passages are too small. The oil cooler core replacement part is around $200 from Ed the parts guy, a supporter of this site. Is your truck showing signs of egr cooler failure? If not, I see little reason to switch out the egr cooler for a Bulletproof. The oem egr cooler has proven to be quite reliable when not overstressed by flash boiled coolant. If you do have some egr cooler failure symptoms, the Bulletproof is probably a better choice than oem.

Regards

 

Having repeat oil cooler problems is all luck. My truck had 4 oil/EGR coolers replaced under warranty and I installed a coolant filter after the first "set" went out.

 

Young gun

It may look like bad luck but I suspect poor technician syndrome.

 

The truck was running fine until one morning, the truck started fine but had lack of power on take off (pulling out of my driveway). I talked to a good friend who is a Ford diesel tech, he told me to look at the egr valve. When I pulled it, it was packed with sout. He got me a new valve and helped install it. Next morning truck ran fine. Then a couple of days later, the truck is hard to start, only in the morning. It does start, you can hear the fuel pump run, there is fuel in the bowl and new filters. I'm gonna take it to my friends shop tomorrow to read the computer. I was thinking if I'm gonna have the truck down to fix it and if I need to tear it down to possibly fix the HPOP, I might as well see if I can possible prevent other prolems before they happen.

 

By your statements to date you have none of the symptoms of the egr cooler/oil cooler debacle. You do have a symptom of a beginning to fail STC fitting on the HPOP. I would recommend getting an Edge Insight and a fuel pressure gauge first. You can not fix what you do not know is broke.

Regards

 

Could also be the ficm starting to fail since it is doing it on cold start up.

 

What fuel pressure gauge do you guys suggest? I'm going to get it scaned for codes aroud noon. I wil let you guys know what I find out. Thanks again guys

 

You can go two ways on the FP gauge. The least expensive is buying direct from GloShift. There are many satisfied users here with there setup. Whole package is around $100 IIRC. The other option would be American made stuff. I went with an ISSPRO EV2 0-100 psi gauge with sending unit. I mounted in a single pod steering column mount. I got mine from Diesel Manor for around $200 complete

Regards

 

I am a little new at posting so I don't quite know what constitutes hijacking a thread. Please let me know if I do. Rickatic, how did you install the pressure sending unit? Is there a port to screw into or did you use a T? Has anyone down a writeup or is it so simple to do that I just look like a dumbxxx for even asking the question.

 

Do a search . You can use the test port on the fuel filter housing, or install a filter cap (usually billet aluminum) that has an NPT fitting on it. Just today I bought the Glowshift electric gauge for less that $50 shipped, and got an M12x1.5 male to 1/8" NPT female adapter at a local hose/fitting place for $8. You can use a cheap 0-100PSI mechanical gauge, but not run it into the cab of the truck (ie leave on the engine, or mount on the cowl old school drag car style).

 

I check into both, but I'm sort of like American made stuff. I got the codes today, there were about 9 of them all dealing with the FICM low voltage. My friend reflashed the FICM, hopefully this works.