This question is probably laughable to some but I honestly don't know. I've started to break down the 2100 that's on my '72 F100 with a 360 and an automatic transmission, no idea which. It was in pretty bad shape, enough that I couldn't get the motor to stay on after starting. Their may be other issues, but I figured it needed done anyways. I just bought it for 300 bucks, and after replacing the battery and cables it turned over but would only start when I poured gas directly into the carb, and then it would roar but not stay on very long or till I let off the gas.
Now I'm starting to wonder if I have the time to do a good rebuild, having never done one before. My question is, what carburetors will fit? I've seen a few for sale from rockauto that say they fit the '69 360 auto, but I'm not so sure if they would work.
Any suggestions? I'm trying to get this fixed up and running by mid September as a surprise for my dad.

 

the carb is easy to work on.1ST thing has the truck been sitting long.Is the gas in the tank bad ? is the fuel pump working?When I get a new project I will take some 5/16 gas line and put it on to the fuel pump where the hose from the gas tank goes and put the other end into my gas can.and see if it pumps the gas to the carb. If it don't fuel pump is bad if it does then it might run.

 

Ok, for money's sake I'm going to attempt a rebuild. I think the carb is where I should start as the tank was pretty much empty, I put in 5+ gallons of new gas and when I tried to start it fuel was going everywhere out of the fuel line that connected to the carb. I replaced that line and found that where the fuel goes in is also leaking.
The thing that worries me the most is that everytime I look at pictures of the 2100 carb online, it seems like mine is missing parts, maybe I'm crazy this is the oldest vehicle I've ever worked on. Prior to this was an 81 Mustang.

 

Blah, the spring inside my choke housing is broke... is this a difficult find? I was able to get it to "slide" back in under what was still attached in the center, is this still usable? I'll get a pic on later when I have my camera charged.

Also I'm missing the part circled in read, almost looks like a paper clip is being used. Is that going to be in the kit?

 

that maybe part of the choke.I cann't remember if there is new parts for that in the reduild kit.There is like 6 screws on the top of the carb that hold the top onand the stud that holds the air cleaner on. take them out and twist the top around the choke rod and you can see the fuel bowl and float the float has a spring clip that holds it on to the main jet housing you can unclip it and check your main jet for blockage it will be a 3/8 socket and check the float out to see if it floats also the jets are in there 2 of them a large flat blade screwdriver to take them out and clean watch when reinsalling not to over tighten these items.I would just wire the choke butterfly open for now.There is alot of parts that all the 2100 share there was changes made to the base shape where they bolt to manifold. Also welcome to the site

 

From your description, it sounds like you are not getting fuel to the carb. I would leave the line off the carb with a hose on it into a jar or can and crank the engine to check flow and fuel quality.I suggest that you make sure that the tank isn't full of bad gas and gunk, check/clean the line from the tank to the fuel pump and check/replace the fuel filter long before hooking that fuel line to a freshly rebuilt or new carb.
Just my $.02,
Gene

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I know the pumps working, I had my wife turning it over while I watched and saw fuel spraying out of the short rubber(?) fuel line that was connected to the carb at a brass(?) fitting and to a solid line on the other end. I have a question about that fitting, it was leaking as well next to the carb, is it just an adapter or is it a filter? I just finished cleaning everything and if it's a filter I want to replace it, not just screw it back on. And either way, to prevent it from leaking there should I use some thread tape(plumbers tape), or something similar?

I pulled the carb out and did a rebuild, you were right not nearly as hard as I thought, next time will definetly be easier, and I will do a better job of labeling screws, they all got back to the right spot heh. The only part I'm worried about is the float level, I followed the insctructions but who knows. I've read through the forum and know what to look for if it too high or too low though.

Before I bolt it back on I'm going to clean the manifold and the spacer, so it may be another day or two before I know if I was successful. I also need to replace the fuel filter just to be safe, haven't located it yet though.

Here's some pics of the carb, part of the throttle linkage is still on it, just wouldn't come off...





Also just noticed it's stamped 1.23, guess that's the size or cfm right?

 

yes that is your fuel filter.

 

Okay, well when I ordered all the parts it suggested I needed to replace the fuel filter, and that is not what came up. Guess I'll be make a run to swap that. It's ok I ordered a replacement choke cover last night, should be here in a couple days which will give me time to get the intake and spacer all cleaned up. Maybe replace some more of the hoses that are looking worn and check the fuel lines.

 

Quick question, my fuel filter doesn't seem to be threading on straight, I haven't forced it but I do recall fuel was leaking from around that hole when I was trying to start it before doing a rebuild. At the risk of ruining it, would using some plumbers tape and wrenching it on the rest of the way be acceptable? I don't want it to leak, and I can't afford to have it re-threaded.

 

Two fuel filters are available that look the same, but have different threads. Make sure you get the correct one, hopefully the carb hasn't had a wrong one forced in there.

 

Well good thing I only placed the one I have on in till it wouldn't go anymore, I don't think that would have messed up the threads considering how much was left sticking out. Anyone know what part number is the correct one? I'm not having much luck with the help at autozone lol.

 

I got it running, starting and idling pretty good. Only issue is a whining noise. Should I start a new thread?

Here is a video if you want to hear it.

My Open Journal: F100 360 Motor

Thanks for all the help so far, I've been able to get a lot done because of it!

 

Never use teflon tape on a fuel line fitting. It WILL deteriorate and get into the lines.

The best product I've found (and have been using for over 30 years) is Loctite PST (Pipe Sealant w/Teflon). It's like a paste that you put on the male threads.

As for the "whine", it could be several things. Water pump? Alternator? Vacuum leak?

 

Turns out it was a vacuum leak, but it got fixed when I had the transmission fixed. Thanks for the info on the fuel filter. It hasn't been on that long so I will look for that product and take off the teflon.