I'm picking my 1960 F-100 frame up from acid dipping this Saturday and taking it to a frame shop for some alignment work. One of the front rear leaf spring mounts needs to be pulled forward back into alignment. While the frame is there, I would like to have all specs checked before sending to powder coat. Does anyone know where I can find the frame/collision alignment specs to provide to the shop?

 

AFAIK the only "alignment specs" for these ladder frames is they need to be square and not twisted, front and rear suspension needs to be perpendicular to frame centerline.
You had the frame acid dipped??? Acid dipping was once a popular way to lighten a drag racing vehicle by thinning the metal a small amount, but would have no reason for being done on a street chassis. Perhaps you had some sort of chemical cleaning or rust removal done, but acid dipping would be a misnomer for those type processes. I only bring this up to keep someone reading this from actually acid dipping their chassis.

 

In the Group 7 (wheels,tires,chassis,suspension,and frames) Section,
under specs,the only thing I see listed is the width - 34",front and rear - and the center to center measurements for the spring hangers.Front spring hangers - 44 5/32",rear spring hangers - 51 21/32".These are taken from my 1959 shop manual,should be the same as the 60? I have,but cannot find right now,a more detailed specification booklet that could possibly have additional measurements,if i find it,I'll forward any pertinent info.Or,you could try contacting mr4speedford,who is sure to have that same booklet,and will help you out.

 

The frame is being chemically stripped in a tank. I'm not sure of the chemicals being used, but it is some sort acid-based chemical, followed by a neutralizing solution (submersion). Being as we are in California, which is very strict on harsh chemicals, it's probably not the same solution used back in the 70's. The main reason I went with the acid dip was to remove any grease and rust from in between the riveted sections of the frame and clean areas where media blasting can't reach. This will ensure any rust in these areas is permanently removed and will not continue once the powder coat is applied. Additionally, the frame will be media blasted before powder coat to remove any flash rust and provide a stronger bonding surface for the powder coat to bond. All this should provide a long-lasting finish which is more durable than traditional paint and last longer for future family generations to enjoy.

 

It appears that you are doing a 'restoration' rather than a 'rodstoration'. Would that be correct?

 

Correct. The restoration will be to concourse level, using mostly NOS parts. Even though a powder coated frame will not be 100% correct, the finish will look like the original (but much more durable) and is accepted by most judges. Although I never plan to have the truck judged, I want it to look 100% original, using as many original Ford parts as I can obtain.

 

The frame dimensions should be the same. All I have are the same specs as you, from my 1960 factory repair manual. Definitely let me know if you find the additional specs.