There should also be a rubber hose on it that runs up to the top of the frame.

 

Yeah, i believe it had a rubberhose that leads to another metal brake line and runs to the front of the truck?

Its odd to me that we are to only fill the rear end 1/2 the way up? Why is this.

Thanks for all the help fellas!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover

Yeah, i believe it had a rubberhose that leads to another metal brake line and runs to the front of the truck?

Some gas tanks do that, those with Evaporative Emissions have a hose
running to a charcoal canister up front (and its related control devices). The
axle vents I've seen have just been rubber hoses that I imagine were
originally clipped to the infrastructure underneath.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordNFishinLover

Its odd to me that we are to only fill the rear end 1/2 the way up? Why is this.

I'm imagining because that's all that is necessary for the gears to be
lubricated, I can't see any benefit to there being any more fluid in there. If it
were filled any higher, I'd imagine there'd be (more) problems with leaks at
the pinion tube & axle shaft seals.

 

Any progress? I want to get rid of my 2.75.

 

Gosh dang i hate the cold. I dont know if im going to get the rear end finished up this year.

I got everything done on the rear end, to find that i didnt get my gasket sealed good enough. I had a slow leak from where the 3rd member bolted up to the housing. So i ended up draining the fresh oil and bought a new gasket to redo it. I have it sitting at our farm house on jack stand and the rear end drained of oil. I was having a hell of a time removed the brakes last time i was trying to work on it so i just drained it and figured i could finish it soon. Not knowing time wasnt on my side and now we got a 4'' of snow and is freezing ***** out.

But anyhow, i did manage to get the rear end all swapped just fine, and even though i had the leak i decided to test drive the truck around the yard. It is 10X better than before!! My truck will burn out now with a touch of the pedal (it wouldnt burn out with my old rear end). Also i was happy to find my limited slip work!!! I didnt really have much of a chance to see how much a difference the take off of the truck had but id imagine its much better.

I'd highly suggest you find the donor axle you want and swap them. It has been a pretty easy task. Just time consuming really. Mainly because i had cleaned it all up with a wire brush and wiped it down and gave it a quick coat of spray paint to make it look better and help protect it.

Really hoping it wont hurt the rear end sitting their without any oil. (any input on this folks??)

If you need any help on the swap just let me know and i can try and fill you in bud.

 

You should be fine.

 

Awesome, thanks ctu.

It should have a coating of oil still on the sides since its not like its been wiped down.

It is cracked on the bottom for when i drained the oil from it though. The cracks smaller than the width of your pinky finger though.

 

Okay, so i plan on finishing this deal up tomorrow.

Now i sure as hell dont want to do this again, so i want to get this clear.

Should i be using some blue/black RTV along with the gasket or should i be using JUST the gasket?

Also whats the trick to getting the drums off the rear axle? Its where its springy, so its the brakes holding it on. I know you have to try and turn something through the little hole, but i couldn't figure it out last time i tried and ended up getting pissed off haha.

Thanks yall.

 

Sorry to hijack here, but I have like 2 axle vents or so at the rear of my pickup. They are just hoses. Is there supposed to be a one way valve in the end?

OP I never use RTV your gaskets should be gtg and I believe they swell once the oil hits em.

 

Glove, its no problem. An those two hoses should be vents for the axle. Its what prevents the axles oil from leaking out the seals on the sides.

 

Superb you are my hero! I was talking to a chev guy and he said his truck had one way valves there and we all know about chevies lol.

 

I would just use the gaskets personally, but a thin layer with the gasket should be just as good or better.

Perhaps going over the bases with sandpaper too to get rid of small imperfections?

 

I would use some sort of Permatex product with the paper gasket, probably Form-A-Gasket
No. 2 (which is non-hardening):



Here's a pic from the shop manual showing loosening & tightening the brake shoes
against the drums:

 

Thanks for the help fellas, think ima use just a real light coat of sealant along with the gasket.

 

I think you should also replace the rear axle seals while your at it just as a precaution. You've already got it torn down.