injector issues?
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injector issues?
ok my truck has 233k miles on it, i recently did injector o-rings. 3 of the injector o-rings were damaged, the truck ran better. but still has some issues runs rough when when hot, with kinda of a loping ill-regular idle, smooths out after idling for a little while. when coasting in gear (down hill) it seems to load up has one hickup when puffs out some whitish smoke, when first getting back on the throttle, then seems to run fine. a couple injectors sound noticeably louder than others. also have quite a bit of start up smoke and kinda hard cold starting issues, i think i may have some bad glow plugs but it seems to be about the same regardless of temp, a few times its was warm enough outside that glow plugs shouldn't have mattered. 75-80*f so im wondering if that is not injector related as well.
on the plus side i have 1 more payment to make on the truck and then ill have an additional $260 a month i can start putting away to do some work on the truck.
on the plus side i have 1 more payment to make on the truck and then ill have an additional $260 a month i can start putting away to do some work on the truck.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Thomasville, GA
Could be broken nozzle springs or other worn components inside the injectors. When I did the Stage I kit in mine I had 4 broken nozzle springs and that was at 170k. Luckily all my nozzles and plunger/barrels were good though.
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i think it goes without saying that if i have to replace or rebuild the injectors i want to upgrade. but don't need 500 hp and don't want to have to do a lot of supporting mods. i would like to keep the stock turbo and oil. a standard stage 1 looks to normally be around 160cc but i have seen some that were 130. would the 130's be the better option or just get the 160's and just stay with less aggressive tunes?
Hotshot
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From: Thomasville, GA
130's would be easier on the drivetrain, but since you have a manual 160's should be fine.
Getting Jim to build them would be cheaper than buying the 130's so I think that 160's would be the better option.
Getting Jim to build them would be cheaper than buying the 130's so I think that 160's would be the better option.
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will the stock turbo and hpop holdup to 160's?
also when getting a custom burned chip does stock count as a tune. like say if i got a chip with stock, heavy tow, economy and say 100 hp tune. would they charge you for 4 tunes or 3
also when getting a custom burned chip does stock count as a tune. like say if i got a chip with stock, heavy tow, economy and say 100 hp tune. would they charge you for 4 tunes or 3
Fleet Owner
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Should just be three. I would say with the 160's you would need at least the 17*hpop. The stock turbo would be fine. I run the 130's tranny savers and its all I need. I towed 24K 5K miles and they did great.
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The symptoms you described could be injector related, it's really tough to say for sure.
BUT with that kind of age and mileage, injectors are always a good first place to start. They WILL need to be overhauled eventually so you're not throwing money away at something that doesn't need to be done.
Your issues could be from worn Plunger & Barrels or plugged nozzles, so there might be an additional expense there. Keep in mind the more new parts you replace in them the better off you are in the long run. You get what you pay for.
As for 130 vs 160 cc. I never really understood the popularity of 130 cc injectors. Just go with the 160 and only run a 100 hp or an 80 hp tune instead of the 140 hp tune. It's the same as running 130 cc injectors. The injectors will cost the same, be worth more for resale or upgrading later, and you'll have that power there for if/when you want/need it.
I have some really good Stage-1 tunes and I'd be happy to supply you with a chip and injectors in a package deal. Shoot me an email if your'e interested.
sales@RosewoodDieselShop.com.
BUT with that kind of age and mileage, injectors are always a good first place to start. They WILL need to be overhauled eventually so you're not throwing money away at something that doesn't need to be done.
Your issues could be from worn Plunger & Barrels or plugged nozzles, so there might be an additional expense there. Keep in mind the more new parts you replace in them the better off you are in the long run. You get what you pay for.
As for 130 vs 160 cc. I never really understood the popularity of 130 cc injectors. Just go with the 160 and only run a 100 hp or an 80 hp tune instead of the 140 hp tune. It's the same as running 130 cc injectors. The injectors will cost the same, be worth more for resale or upgrading later, and you'll have that power there for if/when you want/need it.
I have some really good Stage-1 tunes and I'd be happy to supply you with a chip and injectors in a package deal. Shoot me an email if your'e interested.
sales@RosewoodDieselShop.com.
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thanks for your reply jim. i will shoot you an e-mail after i get off work today, it will probably be a month or two until im actually ready to do anything. as i just put 1000 into new breaks and rear axle seals on my truck. but ill shoot you an e-mail and get a price together so i know what to plan for. ill probably send my injectors to you rather than trying to do the diy kit myself.
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