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I want to change my glow plugs, but I would like to change the injector seals while im at it. On a cold start, my truck smokes horribly( so bad you cannot see!) . Could the injector seals be leaking fuel into the cylinder? Also when its cold it runs like **** until you blow all the white smoke out of it, then it runs like a champ. I also have a hesitaion rite around 2200 RPM. Any ideas?
the smoke sounds like gp's and the poor runnig sounds like normal powerstroke behavoir for cold oil. the hesistaiton could be o-rings. does the hesistation only occur on park or neutral rev-up? does it do it warm as well as cold? a little more info on the hesitation would help out a bunch
This hesitation occurs all the time. Whether in gear or neutral or warm or cold. If im just sitting in the driving revving it up, rite around 2000 RPM I get a hesitation with white smoke out the exhaust. If I am driving down the road it is not as noticable, but it is still there. Just worried that its something to do with the turbo.
This hesitation occurs all the time. Whether in gear or neutral or warm or cold. If im just sitting in the driving revving it up, rite around 2000 RPM I get a hesitation with white smoke out the exhaust. If I am driving down the road it is not as noticable, but it is still there. Just worried that its something to do with the turbo.
Change the plugs & the o rings , & see what happens....
May not be the problem ,but while you are already there:
Check the poppet clearence , or watch the oil spilling from the spouts , all should be spilling the same amount...
This is from Swamps Pull both valvecovers, and start the truck...it won't be horribly messy, just a little oil splash around the valvetrain.
You should be able to look at each injector, and find one that it puking oil out from around the (just above) the hold down clamp.
You may need to mop up any oil that settles down in the low spot of the head to help you see which injector is actually puking...
once you've isolated which inj(s) are puking, pull the solenoid (4 # torx 15 screws), remove the harness to that inj, remove the little aluminum spacer plate...
what you are now looking at is the armature plate...the little ~1"x1" square plate, with the goofy screw (poppet screw) going through it's center.
On a brand new injector, there should typically be .003"-.004" (three to four thousanths of an inch) gap under that armature (measured with a feeler gauge)...
if you can't get a .0015" feeler under the armature plate, then that injector is a problem, and it is a good indication that the others within that set need some machining to bring them back into spec. so that they will operate correctly.
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From Excavator:
After valve covers are off you can start engine and watch each oil spout. They should all spit out the same amount of oil. I check this cold and warm as it could make a difference.
Any not spitting out the same is suspect. You can then pull off 4 screws on top of injector and remove the solenoid. Next lift off the square spacer. In dead center is poppet screw and you can check if tight. If loose that will cause a miss. You can measure the armature plate clearance with a .002 inch feeler by sliding feeler under armature plate (square plate). New injector is .004 and if a .002 in feeler will not slide in then the injector needs to be remachined
the hesitation and smoke is classic injector o-rings. when you pull the injectors you will probably see where they have been leaking by and your copper seals are probably shot as well and you cant miss the combustion residue that leaks by.
OK thanks alot for the info. Is changing the injector seals a do-it-yourself job???Or should i send it to the ford dealership. I know a little about them but I mostly just worked on gas engines.