Does this mean my map is toast? Another thing to note is that I was running the air conditioning today and all of a sudden check engine light came on and trucks idle shot up and stayed at 1500rpm's all the way home and black smoke out the exhaust on WO throttle test during KOER but No codes during KOER.

 

Your MAP isn't necessarily bad. I'm not entirely sure what a code 22 would indicate, but you could have a connection issue between the harness and the sensor. If the vac line running to the MAP appears old or worn out, it could be leaking which would be causing false readings.

As for the idling/black smoke, it could be related to the MAP issue. If the MAP is bad or producing false readings, the computer is trying to compensate for conditions that don't exist which can really screw with your engines performance.

Get the MAP issue sorted out then reset the computer by unhooking the positive battery cable for at least 15 minutes. Then take it for a drive for at least 20-30 minutes and try to get some highway time with it. When you get back home pull the codes again and see what comes up.

 

I forgot to mention that my timing was advanced by at least 2 degrees. Its more than surely retarted to exactly 10 now "I madfe sure of it" but even after A complete upper rebuild every so often the truck will want to stall out when I give it gas but it hasn't yet. This is the same problem I was having when my thottle body sensors and complete upper and lower intake were littered with sludge. Sludge is gone and I even have an oil catch can for definite protection and i'm still having that intermittent wanting to stall out hesitation issue, other than that things are fine. Could dirty spark plugs cause this?

 

Hi Check all of your grounds, eng to cab, eng to frame, wiring harness to body, dirty grounds cause a lot of problems, with your a/c on, it could have been drawing a little extra amps from the system that the dirty grounds could not handle. and dirty grounds cause electrical feed backs.

 

I'm assuming you mean the throttle positioning sensor? Which type is on there- adjustable or non adjustable? If it's adjustable you may be able to adjust it slightly and that will help with the stalling issue. I had a similar problem on my 91 F150 and it turned out the TPS was bad.

You can check the TPS by back probing the connection between the wiring harness and the sensor. Go to this page to determine what your connection is- Ford Fuel Injection Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - this page will also further explain how to test it. A tip tho- I found it to be a royal PITA to back probe the harness, so what I did was take a couple of those quick splice wire connectors and clamp them onto the 2 wires I needed to measure voltage off of.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/conten...ick_splice.jpg

This made it much easier as once they were in place, all I have to do is stick my test leads into the space where the new wire is supposed to go. Easy as pie.

Test the TPS and see if it's reading right. It should be reading anywhere between 0.6v-1v at idle. If it's on the low side and it's adjustable, try increasing the output- 0.9v is a good reference. If it's non adjustable, the sensor could be bad and need replaced.

Let us know what you find out.

Oh, and dirty plugs could be part of the problem, but I doubt they're the sole reason for the issue.

 

I really don't think its the TPS as she mentioned the ground's I remembered that I grounded my wiring harness to where the fuel rail mounts to the lower intake. I did this because I used stainless steel cap screws on my rebuild so the extra studs in the back are now gone. I'm going to attempt to attach the ground wire to the next closest thing which is the cab itself first removing paint of course and then let ya know how things go. But thanks for the TPS writeup it was very informative and I might even still check it to make sure.