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1947 ford 1 ton

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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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1947 ford 1 ton

Hi, We are in the process of buying a 47 1 ton pick up, we believe the wheels are 17". can we use the 1/2 ton stock wheels as the smaller tyres are easier to get here. Also are any parts just for the 1 ton or do they interchange. The body is in pretty good shape. We want to keep it mainly stock. Thanks Ted
 
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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Nice find. I just picked up my '47 1 ton a couple of months ago. The 1 ton wheels use a bigger bolt pattern and larger lugs. The 17" tires can be bought from Coker, (http://store.cokertire.com/17-inch-t...?adjclear=true) for surprisingly reasonable prices, but the selection is pretty limited, from what I can tell. I am hoping to have some luck finding somebody who can make a wheel with the right bolt pattern, but a 16" wheel.

Here's another thread discussing these tires and wheels. According to truckdog62563, the bolt pattern is 5 on 6-7/8".
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...es-1940-a.html

Dave
 
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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Ted, no luck on the wheels, they are 1 ton specific. As for other parts that are one ton specific, the fenders are different from the 1/2 ton. If you need new fenders for your truck, look for fenders from a truck one ton and bigger. If you have a pickup bed, they are different from the 1/2 ton as well, as are running boards. The entire chassis is different, except for the front axle, same as the 1/2 ton. The cab, doors, hood, grille panel, engines, front bumper, fuel tank are the same. Hope some of this helps, congratulations on your new purchase, hope you have fun with it.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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I'm looking at pics of my wheels and it doesn't look like there is a lot of excess thread on the stud, but my pic isn't quite like being there and seeing in person. For a truck that will be restored and not really subjected to any real work, is there enough stud left to put some spacer/adapters on to fit a more common bolt pattern? This way, the original hardware could be used for nostalgic reasons, but for "everyday use" more common easily obtained tires could be mounted. (FWIW, I'm still thinking that it may be just as cost-effective to get some 17s from Coker.)

Just thought of something else... How's the offset on the old wheels? If a spacer was used, is it going to require some crazy offset to make a modern stock week work right?

Dave
 
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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Regarding the original wheels, the 1 ton originally had a locking ring design, which many tire shops won't even touch. So you might have to hunt for a big truck repair shop that will mount tires for you. You never mentioned if you are leaving the truck all stock or if you are going to modernize it a bit (i.e. newer rear end). If you are going to modernize it, then don't worry about looking for rims to fit the original pattern, look for what will fit the bolt pattern of the donor rear.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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I have a 1 ton flatbed that will be my daily driver and we converted the bolt pattern to 5on 5.5. eci disc brake kit up front and a 2010 narrowed f-150 rear end.( gotta keep ford on ford) this gave us an extremely larger selection of wheels to look at. We are going for the stock look but drivablity was key.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by oldtin&things
We want to keep it mainly stock.
First of all, Ted, welcome to the group. Glad to have you hanging around.

The above thread that Dave linked to his comments has just about all there is to say on the subject if your goal is to keep it stock. And honestly, keeping it stock is your most cost effective way to go. In addition to Coker you can get 7.50 x 17s from Universal Tire (Truck and Military), M.E. Miller Tire (M.E. Miller Tire), and I'd think you could get them from Lucas Tire except they don't show them in their on-line catalog in the truck section (http://www.lucasclassictires.com/BIAS0324101419.htm.) As for having the stock lock ring "RH" rims worked on, in addition to the big rig shops you might also check with a local farm implement dealer since multi-part rims are still common on that equipment. I guess if you live in a big city you might have trouble finding somewhere to work on them, but it's not at all hard for me in the middle of corn country.

The only thing missing in the linked thread is the answer to Dave's question about wheel offset. I've looked through all my old wheel catalogs and don't find that listed. All I find quoted is "flat base". My educated guess would be 1/2" of positive offset. So if you were to have adapters made, and custom wheels made to go with the adapters, you'd have to install longer studs and add the increased width of the adapter to your offset measurements to yield a wheel positioned on the truck near to what is stock.

Speaking of adapters, we looked in to it over on the 48-60 forum and found that the cost was almost as bad as the cost of the wheels. So you'd be paying for adapters, then buying wheels and tires. There's no economy there. Same goes for swapping out rear ends and then doing the Mustang II or similar front end modification. You're looking at serious money there, then you still have to buy wheels and tires. The cost of just tires starts to look pretty good when you think of it in those terms. Stu

Edit - Wow, Ted, I just looked at your user profile and see that you are in the UK. That adds a new wrinkle, but even at that I know of other FTE members that live in the UK and the Netherlands that have Marmon Herrington trucks like mine that use similar lock ring wheels with 7.50 x 17 tires. So it must be possible to have them serviced there too. Stu
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Thanks Stu! I'm about 2 hours away from my truck, so it is a little difficult to justify the drive just to check out the studs. I guess my eyes did not fool me; the studs are too short for an adapter, at least an aluminum one. I wonder if a billet steel adapter would work, though, especially for a vehicle that is really going to be under-utilized compared to its original design intention. I'm just hypothesizing, I guess. I really like the idea of keeping these old trucks original when possible.

Dave
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 07:42 AM
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47 seven one ton pickup

Hello I am new to this site. I happened upon looking for information on one ton 47 pickup. I acquired one that has been in storage for 60 years mileage is 2600 miles very hard to believe. It was purchased for use as a fire truck that never was used they acquired a larger truck and put this one in storage. Great example of original truck. Hub caps look like they came off factory line. I will shre some pics.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 08:00 AM
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Welcome! Why don't I find them like this?? Fantastic looking truck. And quite a collection in your profile gallery. Stu


 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 08:47 AM
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47 ford pickup

Thanks Stu I was on my way to Abilene Texas when I spotted truck at a antique store. Lucky find. Seems like there are not to many of these around. I did a search and came upon this site.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 09:56 AM
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Very nice survivor! Wow. Welcome to the ton and over club. I have hub cap envy now.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 10:13 AM
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They are flawless.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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Welcome! Nice truck. If you are interested in keeping the truck stock (and I strongly recommend keeping that truck stock) you may want to join the Early Ford V8 Club. There is a fun Houston Chapter, website here: New Page 1. Ironically we will be having our annual Texas Tour in Abilene this spring.

I'd love to see your truck. I'm in Houston almost every other weekend.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 09:09 AM
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I strongly second that emotion. How many times have we seen an early Conneticut chair on the 'Antiques Road Show' with a value of 30,000.00 spoiled because the woman's mother refinished the chair back in the 60's? Now it's worth 5 grand. Or coins, or guns the same. If you rub out the paint it will be worth considerably less. Do exactly what you want with it, it's yours, but I just offer sound, friendly advice.
 
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