Rad pressure test
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Rad pressure test
Had a friend do a pressure test on my rad he pumped it up to 15 psi which held for a min then dropped to aprrox 13psi. Is that normal or should there be concern. We did the test due to using a very small amount of coolant periodically. We did not find any obvious leaks only trouble I am currently having is the heat/ac only blows out of the defroster which happened after I changed the thermostat due to a leak around the housing.
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From: Cottage Grove, WI
^^^^ That white vacuum line does not control the blend door, it controls the fresh air door.
You do have either a vac leak or a faulty control ****. The vac lines you need to look for hook in on the bottom of the heater box IIRC.
If it dropped to 13psi in a min or less, and then continued to drop, yes you have a problem. If it dropped to 13psi in 4-5 min, no thats w/in normal specs still. Might have a small leak, but good luck finding it as it wont be leaking hardly any coolant.
You do have either a vac leak or a faulty control ****. The vac lines you need to look for hook in on the bottom of the heater box IIRC.
If it dropped to 13psi in a min or less, and then continued to drop, yes you have a problem. If it dropped to 13psi in 4-5 min, no thats w/in normal specs still. Might have a small leak, but good luck finding it as it wont be leaking hardly any coolant.
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From: Easton,Ks
When that white vacuum line breaks you loose all vacuum to the vent system and the all the vacuum motors fall back to the no vacuum position and that makes the air only come out the defroster vents.
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From: Cottage Grove, WI
That white line only runs that one door. Your defrost door is run by the red line. And it looks like its a black like that actually supplies main vacuum from the engine bay. If the white line was broken and you would only have the vent problem on max AC. Not with both heat and AC.
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From: Easton,Ks
That white line only runs that one door. Your defrost door is run by the red line. And it looks like its a black like that actually supplies main vacuum from the engine bay. If the white line was broken and you would only have the vent problem on max AC. Not with both heat and AC.
The rest of the time it was no vacuum to the system.
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From: Cottage Grove, WI
Take a close look at that diagram. if the HVAC **** is switched on to anything other than max AC , there is no vacuum going through that white line. It is removed from the vacuum circuit, and is just an empty line, unless you have the control set to max ac. I dont care what other people may have thought their problem was, if your diagram is accurate, that little white line is not what is causing this guys problem.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
I do not take it he is wanting heat right now so I think he is talking about MAX A/C.
The odds are that he is not using Normal A/C, I do not think many do.
You are right as to what you are saying but you have to read between the lines on most of these post.
The odds are that he is not using Normal A/C, I do not think many do.
You are right as to what you are saying but you have to read between the lines on most of these post.
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Posting Guru
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From: Cottage Grove, WI
I dont try to assume anything when diagnosing a problem, every time I do i end up being wrong. I will give an educated reply based on facts given. If I am given bad info, its not my fault. People need to be specific when asking about a problem, its the only way to get a good answer online. 
So I wonder what ever happened to the original poster?
So I wonder what ever happened to the original poster?
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I was out of town away from computer access for awhile. I appreciate all the responses. I do however have an update and no clue... I was driving the truck this morning and now and not knowing why the heater/ac is all blowing correctly to where I select it. So would us pressure testing the rad have fixed this problem some how?
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