Do like ctubutis suggests, pull the #1 plug, hold your finger/thumb over the hole, as soon as you feel it try to blow your finger off STOP!!!

At that point crank it by hand to TDC, DO NOT TURN THE MOTOR BACKWARDS IN THIS PROCESS, If you go past TDC, start over again (or turn it two full revolutions by hand), Once at TDC, Set your distributer remembering that it'll rotate a little so start to set it just ahead of where you want it pointing in the end ... If it won't set all the way down, pull the distributer back out and rotate the oil pump shaft a little then try setting the distributer again.

Keep at it till you get the distributer set all the way home and the rotor is pointing where you want it.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Thanks Ya'll!

What size socket should I be using for turning it by hand? I've tried a number of sockets but none of them seem to fit quite right...

Why is it a problem to go backwards?

 

Don't know what the socket size is ... But the no backwards while setting a distributer reason is due to Gear/Chain slack.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I believe it's 15/16ths in.

 

I just usually put a screwdriver down the #1 spark plug hole and when it is pushed up high I know I'm on top. If smoke is coming out of the intake then you are almost definitely 180. Everyone loves a noob repeating everyone's opinions right?

 

NEVER NEVER stick a screwdriver or anything like that into your cylinder to feel for TDC ... That is ignorant!

Use a straw or something soft like a straw that will not break off or damage the internals.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Its just what every mechanic I've ever spoken too has told me to do. call it what you will.

I agree though that a straw or something is a better idea.

 

I appreciate the help ya'll. When I originally set the timing I did go backwards some so I'm sure that didn't help.

I'm going to try the 'put my finger on the hole' method since I won't really know what a straw in there would be telling me anyway. Only way I think I can cover the hole is from the bottom of the truck though. There is too much stuff in the way up top.

 

I got the timing fixed and she fired up! Set the timing 'just right' and then re-connected the spout connector.

Guys...the engine was running better than it ever has for me! Over all, much quieter too. Seemed to be a lot more smooth as well.

So after buttoning her back up, I let it idle for a while, shut it down, tried starting and she roared right back to life. Starting was also MUCH faster and easier than it has ever been. No hesitations, just beautiful sweet ignition!

Decided to take her for a solid test drive including some stop and go as well as highway. Seemed to run great and I backed into the driveway and shut her down. Of course, now the engine was truly warmed up and hot. Decided to do the hot restart test and tried to start her again but....

She wouldn't start...just like before! I pushed the pedal to the floor to see if that would get her to go and she started but in the old rough 'I don't really feel like starting' way.

Shut it off and tried again. No start until I pushed the pedal all the way down and then it started rough just like before.

The other problem is that now as its running I hear a high pitched sound over the engine. It sounds similar to how I'd describe a bearing going bad or when you take a running submersible water pump out of the water. It's coming from the drivers side of the engine in the fuel pump area.

Any ideas on the noise...could it be my high pressure fuel pump? If so, could that be causing the hard start after it's hot?

You were correct, 15/16ths is the size.

The reason I was having so much of a problem with the socket on was because dirt build up was only allowing a smidgen of the bolt to grab. Using a screw driver I broke up the caked on dirt and then blew it out with an air compressor.

 

Well, I got under the truck and isolated the noise. Its coming from the starter/flywheel. Is the flywheel in the transfer case? Regardless, the loud rattling is coming from that and I can also feel some vibration on the starter but not as much as on the flywheel area...

So I wonder if my starter is not fully disengaging. I replaced the starter solenoid last year but with all I've heard about those things, maybe it went bad again.

I read somewhere on here how to test if the solenoid was bad but don't recall where. Anyone have the link or can tell me?

Thanks!

 

I called Dad and he helped me figure some of this stuff out. The flywheel thing is the bell housing. That is exactly where the noise was coming from.

He said I could check the relay by reading if there is still voltage going through it after the key goes back to the 'run' position. There wasn't so I went with the assumption that it is still good.

Pulled the starter back off and figured it was bad. It was stuck in the 'out' position which explains the noise I was hearing...bearings in it were shot. Fortunately, I still had my receipt and was able to get it replaced under warranty. They threw it on the tester and it made the squeal noise like before. When they pulled it out the bad boy was smoking!!!

Put the replacement back in and no more squeal noise! Thanks Dad!

Now I need to figure out why it doesn't like to start after its good and hot. Even after the engine was cold and I tried starting it like normal, she wouldn't start until I pushed the pedal to the floor again.

What do you recommend I look at next?

 

i have the same truck, motor, and had the same problems. the eec iv connector, is on the passenger side, up close to where the hooid mounts at. it is ORANGE. it is under the selonoid, straight down below it.