So I have a 2000 v10 2wd excursion and love it!!!
Factory stereo finally died so inam going to replace it all
I have already installed a pioneer bt920 head unit with gps HD radio and the ipone/iPod. I also replaced the speakers with some 3 way pioneer 6x8 or whatever size the fronts and rear doors take. I also have a larger 4 channel kicker amp that will run the 4mains and plan on adding kicker 1x450 mono amp for subs. I have been thinking about going the route of the jl audio sub in the center consol. So I need advise for all the experts on here about what the best way to run the wires as well as which wires to get.I would also like to get and install a rear camera but would like to mount one up in the rear window handle like the new trucks so you can see to back up to hitches easily.
So all add vise and recommendations on where to get the stuff would be great!!
Thanks

 

This thread might give you some ideas to run with:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...m-rebuild.html

 

Instead of wasting money on kicker and JL subs, why not buy some good brands where you get what you pay for, not name brands where you pay for a name? Check out sound solutions audio's Forum for some recommendations. I would recommend Fi subs a long time before I would recommend JL subs. Do it right the first time.

 

do they make an enclosure made for the excursion? I have not sen many fr the excursion other then losing the trunk space which I would rather not! if you could post some links it would be greatly appreciated!

 

You could easily get an enclosure made, they are not all the difficult to make. As long as you have a few tools at your disposal, it really wouldn't be too difficult.

As far as not losing trunk space, could you try putting the subs under the seats, like mounting them on the seat bottoms? Right now I have an expedition, so I can not really tell you exactly what to do, only give you ideas. If you have about 8" or so between the floor and the seats, that would probably be a good spot to put the subs, even if you have to put like 1" risers under the seats to make it fit.

On another note, how many watts is the amp you put on the door speakers, like how many per channel, and what do you have the gain set to? As far as wiring for the sub goes, that depends on the length of the run and how much power is going through them. I will assume the whole 450Watts, and most people don't do a long run, so 12gauge would be fine, but 10 gauge would always be on the safer side. As far as running it, it depends where you mount the amp. If you mount the amp on the top of the box, or on the side, you can simply run it right into the box, and have the other wires coming from the dash right into the box also. If the subs are under the seat and the amp is hidden somewhere else, you might have a more difficult time hiding the wires.

 

Thank you for your ideas!
I am trying to keep everything as stock looking and limit the load ability as ouch as possible!

My original plan was to install only the head unit and the four door speakers being run via the head unit. But like every small plan it grows so I picked up a kicker 4x125 amp to run the door speakers but I would like a sub now and another amp for the sub.

The only specific sub I have been able to find for the excursion is the JL sudio one that mounts in the center console but I bet you could mount two subbed in the rear barn doors? I don't know how they would sound though?

Is it very difficult to run new speaker wires in to each door? which size and model is recommended?

Thanks as always!

 

Don't let anyone try and talk you into buying OFC(Oxygen Free Copper) wire for your set up, it is not large enough to need it and would just be a waste of money. As far as difficulty, it is not too hard to run speaker wire, but it can be a little time consuming if you do it correctly. You would want to run 12 Gauge, but 14 or 16 would work, but anything smaller than that is really too small, I wouldn't even recommend 16 gauge, but if its all you can get it would work.

Imagine a high output pump trying to force water down a pipe thats too small. The pump would be working harder because the water is fighting the motor. Same thing with electricity, except the problem wouldn't be with the head unit, but the wire itself. The wire will heat up from the amount of power flowing through it, and could either burn up and just stop working, it could catch fire if there is something to light, and it could also damage your other equipment.

Another idea for you to consider would be mounting the subs on the back of the rear seats. it would take up some of the trunk space, but a very little amount. What is your budget for this project, because you could always put captains seats in the rear and put in whatever subs you wanted in a box that was flush with the seats. Even if it was a rectangular box with a slight angle, it would look good with some fabric on it. This would also allow the passengers in the read to access the trunk easily while still being seated.

 

I just recently got rid of an 05 diesel limited that had rear captains seats. family didn't like the noise and kids prefer the second row bench verses the captains for some reason??
My current excursion is a second row bench.

I am still not sure where to mount the amps. I really don't want to lose any space with out being able to fold down the second row flat. I am hoping by mounting both amps under the second row they will be concealed when the seats are both up and folded down.

I really don't have a budget but this is my tow vehicle and have lots of other vehicles so I don't think a few grand is not out of line.

I am going to run 8 gauge from the battery then distribute to both amps. I still need to get the speaker wire though and not sure what?

I am going to pull all seats and carpet. the carpet is worn so I am going to replace it all as well. so while it is bare I was thinking of doing some sound deeding if anyone has experience with it and thinks it is worth it? any other weds of advise while it is in this condition?

 

What is the average temperature for your area during the summer? I would not get an asphalt based deadener if you get above 85*F, go with a Butyl one. Second Skin is a good brand, but dynamat may be all you need for what you want to spend.

 

I am in south florida, so summer are hot!
If any one has experience with an excursion, how much can you benefit in sound quality and deadening? This will be no show car but having it down to a bare interior I would like to do what ever I can.

 

I know what the other guys are saying about not wasting money on names for the sake of names, but I really do not see JL Audio as a waste of money. I have owned five different cars with great audio systems and never felt any of them had "Unnecessarily Overpriced" equipment. But I like warranties and quality.

Here's the stealthbox you mentioned on ebay:

JL Audio Stealth Subwoofer Box: eBay Motors (item 220633496861 end time Jul-13-10 15:58:26 PDT)

pretty dang good price!

 

Oh...and on the sound deadening front I would go with Second Skin Audio products. They are great and not messy asphalt based like I used in my frist truck. With a black truck, the asphalt stuff can get really nasty. Go to second skin audio dot com and check them out. They even have b-stock and regular discounts...sign up for email updates and you'll see! Do a search on youtube for them and they have videos with discount codes. Good luck!

 

Thank you for the find on Ebay. Purchased it, It seems to be the best solution for me to not lose any rear storage or loading space.

Does the deadening help with road noise or is it more for acoustics?

 

It helps with road noise, engine noise, and acoustics. It depends on what you get with it. Vibration dampener really does a lot if you have a vehicle that rattles a lot.

 

Well the excursions are huge.
I am replacing the carpet so I will have the truck down to nothing in the interior .
I am then going to install 2 amps , one 4 channel for door. then a single mono amp to power the jl audio sub in the center console.

Would the audio experts recommend a reasonable matting/sound deeding.
also I would like a recommendation on the speaker wire to run from the amps to the door speakers?