Horn Repair?
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Portland, OR
Horn Repair?
I am attemptinng to get one of my parts trucks road ready so I can drive the bed to the sandblaster and then to the body shop as it's about to give it's bed to a better cause.
I have all those important things done. It starts, stops, and has brake lights. Only thing is no horn.
My first thought check to see if there is power out of the relay and there was. Then I thought horn. Yes the horn was bad. I checked it with a wire straight to the battery. I dont have any more functional right horns so I drilled a couple holes and added a left horn. Now I can honk at all the a-holes that cut in fromt of me as I follow at a safe distance in my drum brake truck.
So here is the question... I have a nice collection of non-functional right hand horns. Any one know what generally goes wrong with them and if they can be repaired? I've never opened one up but with 6 or so non functional one I just might see what's inside.
I have all those important things done. It starts, stops, and has brake lights. Only thing is no horn.
My first thought check to see if there is power out of the relay and there was. Then I thought horn. Yes the horn was bad. I checked it with a wire straight to the battery. I dont have any more functional right horns so I drilled a couple holes and added a left horn. Now I can honk at all the a-holes that cut in fromt of me as I follow at a safe distance in my drum brake truck.
So here is the question... I have a nice collection of non-functional right hand horns. Any one know what generally goes wrong with them and if they can be repaired? I've never opened one up but with 6 or so non functional one I just might see what's inside.
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Senior User
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From: Portland, OR
I am not sure about any year other than 66 though.
As far as a state law, nope, just a functional horn.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Dallas, Texas
These horns are riveted together with like, 6 rivets.
I do not think the rivets are available and they have to be drilled out.
I did take one apart and put it back together with screws but I still was unable to make it work, even with trying different adjustment settings. Seems like it should have worked, but nada.
I do not think the rivets are available and they have to be drilled out.
I did take one apart and put it back together with screws but I still was unable to make it work, even with trying different adjustment settings. Seems like it should have worked, but nada.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Portland, OR
The two regular cab trucks both have 1 horn.
All are wired for two horns.
Perhaps it depended on the assembly plant or the day of the week. On Friday perhaps trucks only got one horn unless they were white; On Tuesday blue trucks only got one horn; etc. etc.
Got me. It may be a state law somewhere too.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
2W7Z13800AA (replaced E3AZ13832A, D8AZ13832A, D3AZ13832A & B8AZ13832B) .. Horn-High Pitch / Available from Ford.
F4AZ13833A (replaced E3AZ13833A, D8AZ13833A, D3AZ13833A & B8AZ13833B) .. Horn-Low Pitch / Available from Ford.
Fits: Myriad 1958/2010 Passenger Cars, Trucks, Bronco's and Econolines, plus you name it.
The horns used 1958/72 (B8AZ13832B / B8AZ13833B) on just about everything (except some T-Bird's, Lincoln's and Marks) are the same. From 1973, the horns will work, but look different.
Some 1972 T-Birds, 1965/72 Lincoln's and 1969/72 Marks used two "trumpet" horns. These same cars: 1973/76, have three horns.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Portland, OR
Fits: Myriad 1958/2010 Passenger Cars, Trucks, Bronco's and Econolines, plus you name it.
The horns used 1958/72 (B8AZ13832B / B8AZ13833B) on just about everything (except some T-Bird's, Lincoln's and Marks) are the same. From 1973, the horns will work, but look different.
The horns used 1958/72 (B8AZ13832B / B8AZ13833B) on just about everything (except some T-Bird's, Lincoln's and Marks) are the same. From 1973, the horns will work, but look different.
Now thanks to the local u pull it and a $20.00 bill I have a couple spares too. Out of the 9 horns I walked into the office with only 5 worked (I took my handy tester... piece of wire with a connector on the end). No wonder there are so many cars with non-working horns. I always thought it was an electrical problem not a $3.49 horn.
Last edited by duphofff; Jul 6, 2010 at 12:25 AM. Reason: grammer
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From: Escondido, CA
and I quote...
"An electromagnetic horn uses an electromagnet to attract a steel diaphragm and turns that electromagnet on and off rhythmically so that the diaphragm vibrates. In fact, it uses the diaphragm's position to control the power to the electromagnet. Whenever the diaphragm is in its resting position or even farther from the electromagnet, a switch closes to deliver electric current to the electromagnet. The electromagnet then attracts the diaphragm's center. But when the diaphragm moves closer to the electromagnet, as the result of this attraction, the switch opens and current stops flowing to the electromagnet. Because of this arrangement, the diaphragm moves in and out and turns the electromagnet off and on as it does. The diaphragm's tone is determined by the natural resonances of its surface."
"An electromagnetic horn uses an electromagnet to attract a steel diaphragm and turns that electromagnet on and off rhythmically so that the diaphragm vibrates. In fact, it uses the diaphragm's position to control the power to the electromagnet. Whenever the diaphragm is in its resting position or even farther from the electromagnet, a switch closes to deliver electric current to the electromagnet. The electromagnet then attracts the diaphragm's center. But when the diaphragm moves closer to the electromagnet, as the result of this attraction, the switch opens and current stops flowing to the electromagnet. Because of this arrangement, the diaphragm moves in and out and turns the electromagnet off and on as it does. The diaphragm's tone is determined by the natural resonances of its surface."
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