My 66 bit the dust
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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My 66 bit the dust
I really thought this motor had alot of life left in it but now its not looking too good. last week i installed a Edelbrock intake manifold and the install was successful, this truck has never run better. the other day i go down the road a few miles and park it, get back in 20 mins later it wont turn over. Just getting a clunk from the starter, so i try to roll the motor over by hand and it wont budge. 4 hours later it starts as normal, i even shut it off and back on 3 or 4 times. so i drive the truck another few miles and shut it off when i get back home and now its stuck again, i have even had all the plugs out and tried turning over the motor with a breaker bar but its still not budging. Like i said, this truck was running GREAT, No noises, oil is clean, i had oil pressure, and good coolant temp.
The only thing i can think of is a main bearing has warped and thats whats keeping it from running. Any suggestions?
The only thing i can think of is a main bearing has warped and thats whats keeping it from running. Any suggestions?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 825
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From: Dallas, Texas
Too unlikely a conclusion; try thinking in less dramatic terms of what else could cause such a problem.
Clean oil, normal engine temps and no noises don't support the bearing theory.
Likely a more simple, but harder to diagnose (intermittent) fix. Any further info on what precipitates the problem?
Clean oil, normal engine temps and no noises don't support the bearing theory.
Likely a more simple, but harder to diagnose (intermittent) fix. Any further info on what precipitates the problem?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Pull all the spark plugs and see which one is hydro-locked from coolant, or it can even be gasoline form a leaking carb.. Sounds like it is sucking coolant in to the cylinder. It will bend things.
Garbz
Garbz
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 825
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From: Dallas, Texas
Seat of pants scenario:
OK, this truck has headers, that you forgot to mention. Now you have installed a new intake and carb, you drive with your foot a LOT more into it. The starter gets REALLY hot. When you try to start it, the super hot starter drive gear clunks powerfully into place but jams on the shaft, engaged, and basically locking down the engine. You can't even turn the engine with a breaker bar. But, once things cool, the gear returns to normal or maybe the shaft it slides on or the bushings cool, gear un-jams and slides back out of the flywheel and the engine works and starts normally UNTIL you try to start it again HOT.
So, drive it home and when it won't start, cool the starter down with a garden hose. See if that will work or if it will reduce the time interval to restart. If not, call us back or provide more info.
BTW: If this actually works, just buy enough hose to reach the farthest point you ever drive to and you should have no more problems.
OK, this truck has headers, that you forgot to mention. Now you have installed a new intake and carb, you drive with your foot a LOT more into it. The starter gets REALLY hot. When you try to start it, the super hot starter drive gear clunks powerfully into place but jams on the shaft, engaged, and basically locking down the engine. You can't even turn the engine with a breaker bar. But, once things cool, the gear returns to normal or maybe the shaft it slides on or the bushings cool, gear un-jams and slides back out of the flywheel and the engine works and starts normally UNTIL you try to start it again HOT.
So, drive it home and when it won't start, cool the starter down with a garden hose. See if that will work or if it will reduce the time interval to restart. If not, call us back or provide more info.
BTW: If this actually works, just buy enough hose to reach the farthest point you ever drive to and you should have no more problems.
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From: Fredericton N B Canada
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Thornton, Colorado
If it is the starter, a fix I have used to get home is to tap the starter a couple of times with a hammer or a large wrench. It only works a couple of times so don't think this will get you through July. But it will get you home if it is the starter.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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Ok, so its a brand new starter. I have tapped on it but still nothing, just a big clunk of it trying to turn the motor. It does have headers so i have not had time to physically pull out the starter, those headers kinda make it a pain.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Read what OldHarley typed in post #6. He is 100% correct with his scenario.
The placement of the headers is causing the problem...the right side is so close to the starter, it's causing it to overheat.
There is no EZ fix...unless you remove the headers. The only thing you can do is modify the headers to allow more airflow around the starter.
The placement of the headers is causing the problem...the right side is so close to the starter, it's causing it to overheat.
There is no EZ fix...unless you remove the headers. The only thing you can do is modify the headers to allow more airflow around the starter.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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Ok, so if the starter is the culprit im thinking about something like this.
Thermo-Tec 14150 - Thermo-Tec Starter Heat Shields - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Thermo-Tec 14150 - Thermo-Tec Starter Heat Shields - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 619
Likes: 1
From: Montpelier, VA
Personally, I would ditch the headers and go with the stock manifolds. Sooner or later you will become tired of having to remove the header to replace the starter each time it gets cooked by the header. Why people put headers on these trucks in the first place is beyond me. Does everyone race pickups nowadays? My truck had them on it when I bought it and that was the first thing i got rid of. Didn't notice any loss of power and no more exhaust leaks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
But if he cannot move the engine over without the spark plugs out then there is mechanical damage. The starters Bendix is not permanently engaged to the flywheel. So why would this prevent the crank from spinning?
Remove the cover plate and take a look at the starters nose and gear and see if it has jammed to the flywheel.
Also look to see if there may be damage to the back of the block from a torque converter nut working loose.
Garbz
Remove the cover plate and take a look at the starters nose and gear and see if it has jammed to the flywheel.
Also look to see if there may be damage to the back of the block from a torque converter nut working loose.
Garbz
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 825
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, Texas
garbz,
My seat of the pants theory was based on the bendix gear somehow jamming due to severe heat combined with (slightly bent shaft, heat expansion, or other) once it engaged the flywheel.
Your comment is right on regarding removing the cover plate as it could be seen if that theory is correct. As a matter of fact, he could just leave the cover plate off and observe the nose as you have noted the next time the problem arises.
66F100,
I did the same thing and the headers are now 'yard art'
My seat of the pants theory was based on the bendix gear somehow jamming due to severe heat combined with (slightly bent shaft, heat expansion, or other) once it engaged the flywheel.
Your comment is right on regarding removing the cover plate as it could be seen if that theory is correct. As a matter of fact, he could just leave the cover plate off and observe the nose as you have noted the next time the problem arises.
66F100,
I did the same thing and the headers are now 'yard art'