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I leaning on using 3m adhesive on my rear lower outer cab corners was planing to weld the inner corners. Been priceing the adhesive and the application gun. Anybody have a good source where to buy the gun at a reasonable price. Seems like the gun is kinda pricey. Hate to spent to much for a one time job. Allso which is the preverred adhesive?
If you're only doing it once or twice just use a caulking gun and a socket or wooden dowel get the 15 min or medium acting stuff mix it on a plate and dab it on.
I've used lord fusor and the 3m durabond? I did end up picking up a gun but.... it doesn't work with all the different types of bonding adhesives or sizes.. Like I said just hand mix it. Oh if you have doubts , don't it will not come apart the metal around it will tear first. Also pick up some clamps the pinchy type and the locking "C" style for welding. Plan it out twice have all your panels ready and start.. I much prefer is for panels over welding. Here in the north east anything you weld, it will start to rust..
the 8115 is a good product for it. BUT because of the expansion and contraction with temperature change, long term it WILL show where the seam is. i still weld it there. and ALL adhesive companies will admit to this. i think they will get it to where it doesn't, but right now it still does. if you are building a driver it may not be a big deal but if you are building a "show" truck, i would weld the seam and glue the flanges on the bottom and door opening. usually they will give a gun if you buy a few tubes. o'reilly's and my local paint supplier both sell the 8115 to me for 28 bux a tube. 3m has multiple price lists with diff m.s.r.p. so watch out for the gougers. we have another paint store that sells it for 43 a tube. when using the glue, once you put the panel in place, DO NOT lift it off to readjust or you will have to clean the glue off and reapply. so fit it good and "slide" it. what happens is it will trap air pockets/bubbles and compromise the bond when you lift it.
I bought one of the guns on ebay for a pittance. Set up a search notification to let you know when one is listed.
Using a search notification probably would be a way to watch for a gun to come along at a good price. Been a little to hot down here in Mississippi to work a lot outside at this time which gives to time to shop.
If you're only doing it once or twice just use a caulking gun and a socket or wooden dowel get the 15 min or medium acting stuff mix it on a plate and dab it on.
I've used lord fusor and the 3m durabond? I did end up picking up a gun but.... it doesn't work with all the different types of bonding adhesives or sizes.. Like I said just hand mix it. Oh if you have doubts , don't it will not come apart the metal around it will tear first. Also pick up some clamps the pinchy type and the locking "C" style for welding. Plan it out twice have all your panels ready and start.. I much prefer is for panels over welding. Here in the north east anything you weld, it will start to rust..
good luck
bob
First time I've heard of lord fusor will have to read up on it. How much overlap of the metal do you normally use with adhesive. Thanks for the tip.
the 8115 is a good product for it. BUT because of the expansion and contraction with temperature change, long term it WILL show where the seam is. i still weld it there. and ALL adhesive companies will admit to this. i think they will get it to where it doesn't, but right now it still does. if you are building a driver it may not be a big deal but if you are building a "show" truck, i would weld the seam and glue the flanges on the bottom and door opening. usually they will give a gun if you buy a few tubes. o'reilly's and my local paint supplier both sell the 8115 to me for 28 bux a tube. 3m has multiple price lists with diff m.s.r.p. so watch out for the gougers. we have another paint store that sells it for 43 a tube. when using the glue, once you put the panel in place, DO NOT lift it off to readjust or you will have to clean the glue off and reapply. so fit it good and "slide" it. what happens is it will trap air pockets/bubbles and compromise the bond when you lift it.
Didn"t know O"Reillys had it. Will have to check them out. This will be a driver.
fusor is alright but it stinks bad and leaves a slimey resin on its surface when it dries. ihaven't tried in a couple of years because of it. be sure to read directions. some want bare steel(better) and some want e-coat. if it is a urethane based glue, it draws moisture therefor don't use on bare steel as it WILL rust. the 8115 uses glass beads in it to keep from overclamping and forcing all the glue to squeeze out. it worx great for fiberglass too.
I use 3M 8115 structural panel adhesive and 3M 8308 heavy bodied seam sealer extensively. I bought a gun on ebay for around $60 and it works just fine. Deals come up on ebay all the time for overstocks on these products...$20 a cartridge is what I consider to be a good price. I have paid more but only when I didn't have the luxury of time to shop. Pay close attention to the working time on these products, 8115 sets in about 45 minutes but can be speeded up with heat...8308 is hard in about 10 minutes, you have to work fast with this product. If you are using structural adhesive be sure that you leave plently of overlapping flange to hold the bond, I leave about an inch when I am pre-fitting panels for bonding. As for expansion/contaction I have not had seen it in any of the work I have done...but then again, I do not leave the adhesive exposed to the final finish.
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