Patch Panel adhesive
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: La Crosse Wisconsin
Patch Panel adhesive
I ordered patch panels from LMC for cab corners and lower front fenders on my 72 f100. The panels seem substantial but quite thin and they also seem to be a bit oversized as if they were intended to simply layer over the cancer areas. Would it be outrageous to use 3M automix bonding adhesive to simply layer the patch panel over the existing metal? If this can be done...do I need to remove paint to bare metal where I apply the adhesive?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
I have used both welding and adhesive to do patch panels. I strongly prefer welding, but chose to re-skin my doors using an adhesive because of the compound curvature, panel size and weld heat distortion that can occur.
It is typical that the patch panel will be a lighter gage than the parent metal. It is usual that the patch is larger than the area needing repair. Usually, the patch is sized to the cleanly cut opening.
For bonding as an overlay, put the panel on the INSIDE of the cab so that the body filler over the patch can restore the body lines.
It is critical that the surfaces to be bonded be to bare metal and CLEAN in order for the adhesive to bond to it. Remove all paint, grease, rust, etc, then clean with MEK, laquer thinner, acetone or alcohol. Let the area dry completely, then apply the adhesive per directions and clamp for curing.
Where clamping is not practical, I have used strong magnets or clecoes to hold the pieces together. The thinner the bond line is, the stronger it is.
Here's a link to my gallery for some tips that may be helpful: 1956 Ford F100 4x2 - Door Skins
It is typical that the patch panel will be a lighter gage than the parent metal. It is usual that the patch is larger than the area needing repair. Usually, the patch is sized to the cleanly cut opening.
For bonding as an overlay, put the panel on the INSIDE of the cab so that the body filler over the patch can restore the body lines.
It is critical that the surfaces to be bonded be to bare metal and CLEAN in order for the adhesive to bond to it. Remove all paint, grease, rust, etc, then clean with MEK, laquer thinner, acetone or alcohol. Let the area dry completely, then apply the adhesive per directions and clamp for curing.
Where clamping is not practical, I have used strong magnets or clecoes to hold the pieces together. The thinner the bond line is, the stronger it is.
Here's a link to my gallery for some tips that may be helpful: 1956 Ford F100 4x2 - Door Skins
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vidaliaman
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Apr 7, 2016 07:40 AM
CharlieLed
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Apr 13, 2012 12:08 AM
