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I'm sure somebody has already put headers on a 67-72 F-100 in here. I want to know what brand would last long and needs little or no modifications to get them in. I've heard lots of storys were guys have to bend, cut, etc. to get a new pair of (custom fit) headers into there truck.
Right now I'm looking at brands:
Hedman headers. $129.00
Dynomax headers. $99.95
Summit Racing headers. $79.95
I put Flowtech headers on my '72 302 about a year ago. They are a cheap header and a real struggle to put on. I just about gave up but I finally got them in. Things I had to do to get them in:
-jacked up my engine on the passenger side to get header in
-wrapped my starter with insulated wrap
-put shims under my motor mounts on both sides to get collectors off cross-member
-fixed fan shroud that I broke when I jacked up engine
-built new transmission cross-member because collector ended up pointing right at middle of old crossmember from about 1' away. New cross-member allows a straight pipe to back.
-put the automatic shifter rod into the transmission lever from opposite side and bent rod to clear driver side collector.
Once I did all that they worked OK. I have had no problems with leaking at gaskets. I've heard Hookers fit right but they cost way more.
Keep an eye on Ebay. There was someone awhile back that was selling a new set of Hooker Super comps for your application. I went with Hooker on my 69 but had to do alot of modifactions because of the 351W (393 stroker) but am very pleased with the outcome. The Hooker sound in my opinion is second to none.
as far as headers go stan's are probaly the best. on my car i run dynomax and they seal once and when you replace the gaskets they are hard to reseal. but as for the three you listed hedman would be the best, but with header the more expansive they are, the better they probaly are.
Wow. I would not have expected that many modifications to install headers. Anyone know of a manufacturer that makes an actual bolt on set? I checked Stan's, doesn't appear to make a set for the 302.
Hey Stroker393, what kind of modifications did you have to do to get your headers to work with the 351? I've tried Hedman and Dynoteck and can't seem to get even close. I have a 71 with a 351W abd a C-6. I've since about given up but it sure would be nice to figure out how to do it with out cutting up my truck. Do you have any pictures of it.
Clint
Originally posted by 71swissaqua Hey Stroker393, what kind of modifications did you have to do to get your headers to work with the 351? I've tried Hedman and Dynoteck and can't seem to get even close. I have a 71 with a 351W abd a C-6. I've since about given up but it sure would be nice to figure out how to do it with out cutting up my truck. Do you have any pictures of it.
Clint
I know your pain well; I tried at least (5) different brands, from shorties to long tubes with no luck. The Hooker super comps were purchased off Ebay at a steal - #6826-1, 69-79 with 302. I wasn't going to cut up my truck so I had two choices; have a set made or alter the Hookers. Altering them was cheaper as my painter builds race cars and had plenty of spare header tubing laying around. The driver's side front (2) tubes had to be shorten to clear the steering box and the #2 tube on the passenger's side had to be cut out and replaced with a different angle tube to clear the frame rail. Also the collector ends didn't clear the cross member that is under the bellhousing / rear oil pan area but I'm running a 4-speed so I removed it. When this cold weather gets out of here I will update my pic gallery from front to rear with this three year project that is 99.9% complete.