I plan on replacing my stock exhaust manifolds with headers. '95 302 Auto, 2wd, standard cab. I'm pretty sure the manifolds are leaking. How difficult is it to remove the old manifolds? Is there a problem with bolts/studs breaking with these engines? I've read where some headers have clearance issues in some areas. Has anyone installed the headers without any problems? If yes, what brands work best? I'm trying to determine if this old man can tackle this project. Thanks in advance.

 

The old cast manifolds will come off pretty easy. The bolts are all blind holes, so no rust to get them locked up(like on an old FE engine). The bolts holding the Y pipe will likely just break off. Not an issue since you aren't reusing them.

If you put headers on you will have to have a complete custom exhaust fabricated, including new cats(if you have to run them). Not sure anyone offers a kit for long tubes? I put short tubes on my '89 and found a true dual kit that did "bolt on". Not high quality, but did "fit".



Likely not.....

If you are just concerned about the leaks, I'd just get the manifolds replaced(if cracked) and leave the rest alone. After going through this with one truck, and not seeing any real performance gains(everything else stock) I wouldn't do it again.

 

Thanks Freightrain. I'm thinking if I need new manifolds, why not just go back with headers. Yes, I would also hope for performance gain. At the same time I replace the manifolds, I want to have dual exhaust installed. My plan is to take it to a muffler shop after the manifolds or headers are installed.

 

The long tube vs shorty headers vs. factory manifold topic has been rehashed many times. Many folks swear by long tubes, others at them.

My personal opinion is simply getting rid of the factory converter and replacing it with a modern 3-way is your best bang for the buck. Sourcing good quality replacement manifolds is going to be pricey which brings shorties into play for dollars spent.

On a stock truck I question the return on the investment for long tubes and the coin for a full custom exhaust. Others can and probably will argue. Once you start adding a cam, roller rockers, heads, etc, then long tubes win hands down.

In any of these scenarios I would not go dual exhaust unless you like to spend money on extra parts. If you are going strictly for bragging rights feel free to do so, otherwise stick to a single 2.5" inch exhaust for that 5L engine.

The beauty of shorties is you can use off the shelf pieces to build your own exhaust.

 

shortys are the easiest and cheapest, long tubes are the best by far.

there are a myriad of different "types" of problems you could encounter with long tubes, and for these trucks. these problems include; clearance to torque flange-to-head bolts [(also an issue with shorties) where the tube is so close to the head of the bolt that it interferes with torqueing them], driveshaft clearance (if you are 4x4), starter clearance, and ease of y pipe fab.

each brand of long tube has their quirks, and many share one or more of the above indicated problems.

I used to suggest pacesetter, they have good starter clearance and I've never had to bend any to clear a driveshaft...but now I suggest flowtech because the pacesetters have become a problem with the flange bolts. 2.5" collector of the flowtechs promotes scavenging at a lower rpm, and the only issue I've ever had with them is bending the collector for driveshaft clearance. I can get the starter out with them installed, the tubes protrude far enough (straight out) from the flange that bolting them is easy, and can get a 5/16 wrench on each head, fit gt40p heads without any additional attention, and theyre cheap to top it off.

long tubes or nothing.

 

I got a set of headman longtubes on my 95 f150 4x2 302, didnt have any clearance issues. I used a torch to heat up the bolts on the exhaust manifold after i broke the first one i tried to take off. After heating them up they came right off. To see any gains though you will need to also replace the rest of the exhaust system specifically the y-pipe and the cat.

Once you go long tubes you will never go back haha

 

My typical recipe for stock or lightly modded engines is to run shorty headers and a free flowing exhaust. Ive run this several times on several different engines ( small block ford, 5.4, some other small block fords, a chevy 4.3, etc) and have noticed a slight increase in gas mileage every time. The main reasons i have not always went for long tubes is cost effectiveness, and ground clearance ( i do like to lower my stuff, sometimes long tubes hang a bit low)

However, with that being said, i fully agree with what most people have said, long tubes typically are the best, but come with some more work to make them fit. Ive had some long tubes on some cars and trucks before, most with bumpity bumpity cams and a lot of fuel dumping into the top fo them, but the certainly do flow.

As far as manifold removal, i suggest prepping a bit, by using whatever your favorite penetrating oil is, and hosing down the manifold bolts before you go on a drive ( long enough to get the engine nice and warm) the heating up of the manifolds and bolts will actually "suck in" the penetrating oil into a threads a bit, making stubburn bolts easier to remove. I suggest doing it several times over the course of a week or so. When the day comes to remove the manifolds, i personally have always had better luck taking them off still warm from a drive, but sometimes, thats just not feasible, and its also quite uncomfortable for some. the back studs going to the Y pipe will probably break, as many have stated before, but no worries, you wont be needing them. If a manifold bolt is not wanting to cooperate, dont be afraid to use a torch to get it good and hot.

Good luck, and let us know what you come up with!

 

What's going on with the flange bolts? Is it the bolts that come with Pacesetters and could different bolts be used?

 

How the tubes come off the flange dictates how easy they are to install...car headers are built with the bend right off the flange, because space is limited. The pacesetter headers are built like this, but they don't need to be...we have a lot of space to work with in these trucks. The flowtech tubes come straight off the flange a couple inches before they make the bend down, which provides ample clearance to get a bolt in and the head of a box wrench in there which is crucial to get adequate torque.

 

I went with Pacesetter, but even after sending pictures, talking to them on the mistakes, making suggestions, sending the headers back, THEY still couldn't straighten it out correctly...

But I digress...

On my next project, I will either go with Flowtechs or Summit long tubes( Summit LTS are supposedly rebranded LTS of another Manufacturer) perhaps someone can chime in.

 

Too bad to hear about the Pacesetters, I was ready to order them for myself. As for the Summit headers, those are rebranded Pacesetters from what I've been reading...

 

Got shorty Pacesetters and they fit perfect have not installed the starter yet but they bolted right on the heads.

 

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I will let you know what direction I take. I'm sure I will need to ask additional questions once I get started.

 

I used L and L long tube headers on my Bronco. They were tight but I was able to install them myself.

 

I installed Hedman elite 89358 ceramic coated long tubes on the truck in my sig. High quality with 3/8" flange and 14 ga tubing. A little pricey, but you get what you pay for. Don't use the gaskets that come with any header you buy, get a higher quality gasket. The install went pretty good, did what was recommended and soaked bolts with penetrant for days. The bolts going to the Y pipe just wrung off. I was able to get a socket on every header bolt. Unless you use a stud where your dipstick bracket bolts, you will have to modify it a bit and make a new piece to extend from the existing bracket welded to the tube to another mounting point, I attached mine to the coil bracket, works fine. On the other side, if you don't use another stud, you will just eliminate the brace for the upper intake. Also, my starter went out about two months after install and I was able to change it without removing header. Make sure you protect your starter and 02 sensor wires with heat shield sleeves and heat insulators for the spark plug boots. Also, you will need an O2 extender. I've been running these for about a year now with zero issues.