What and where engine identification
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From: Jasper
Yeah. Once I verify that the bearing clearances are ok and check the cylinder bores, valves, etc. I'm hoping this engine is in good enough shape to not need a rebuild. I plan on doing a frame off on the '70 next spring and I'm hoping this is going to be my engine. Not looking for a hot rod, just nice looking, functional and reliable. Stock is fine as long it's solid. I'm on a low budget.
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There's nothing special inre to 6015.
6015 is nothing more than the bare block casting basic number, regardless of the engine size. Ford has used 6015 since 1908.
The Ford basic part number for every bare block is 6010, and has been since 1908.
Casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to actual FoMoCo part numbers. And...usually the casting/part basic numbers are different.
6015 is nothing more than the bare block casting basic number, regardless of the engine size. Ford has used 6015 since 1908.
The Ford basic part number for every bare block is 6010, and has been since 1908.
Casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to actual FoMoCo part numbers. And...usually the casting/part basic numbers are different.
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i bought a 1963 f100. casting number on block is c9oe-6015-c. what does c on end mean. is this a cleveland or windsor. and will this block properly use other small block parts. my cast numbers are different on intakes and exhaust.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
A 1963 truck would not have a C9OE(1969)-6015-C block casting number, so the engine's been swapped.
Casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to Ford parts numbers, but it could be a 351W, introduced in 1969.
The 351C was not introduced until 1970 and has EIGHT valve cover bolt holes per side. The 351W has SIX.
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From: Jasper
OK, guys. A little technical help here please. Trying to figure out what cam may/may not be in this 351W. Anybody know what the specs are on the stock cam and the HO cam? Valve lift and duration? Took a couple of basic measurements and came up with something close to.....
#1 cylinder:
Intake rocker arm at push rod - .125 movement full open to full close
Exhaust rocker arm at push rod - .251 movement full open to full close
Cranshaft rotation is about 220* from intake valve full open to full close.
Am I measuring anything pertinent? If not, how could I check it without pulling the cam? Thanks!
#1 cylinder:
Intake rocker arm at push rod - .125 movement full open to full close
Exhaust rocker arm at push rod - .251 movement full open to full close
Cranshaft rotation is about 220* from intake valve full open to full close.
Am I measuring anything pertinent? If not, how could I check it without pulling the cam? Thanks!
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From: Jasper
So just measure the difference in height of the push rod itself, from, what would be, open to close stroke?
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From: Jasper
Ok, I'll measure that this weekend. 1st casualty. Broke an intake bolt getting it off. Front, driver's side. Pretty much even with the head. Taking the heads to the machine shop anyway for cleaning and grinding valve seats so I'll have them get it out and retap. On a positive note, the valley looks pretty good. Not cruddy at all. Cast numbers in valley...351 WCP 22. That confirms it, right? 351 windsor. Mean anything else? Heads didn't look too bad. Oil galleys may be clogged. Quite a bit of sludge on the bottom edge, near the valve cover seat. Hard, greasy gunk. Good dip will clean that right up. I'll, hopefully get the heads off this weekend and see what kind of shape the cylinders and lifters are in. I'll check bore and stroke while I'm at it. Opinions or advice? Thanks!
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From: Jasper
Head casting numbers?
Ignore the subject line, please.....Found it. Got the RH head off. Above the #1 cylinder is D80E. Above #3 is 52. Above #4 is AB. After researching for the past couple of hours, the internet consensus is they're not good for much of anything. It's going to cost me $150 for the set just to have them vatted and the valve seat ground, and they need it. So, that 150 that could be better spent buying another set of heads. I just plan on using the truck for a daily driver but would like to have a little oomph to it when I hit the gas. Say......300-350 hp. No towing to speak of. However, she weighs 4200lbs so a little extra kick wouldn't hurt. Just 87 octane gas. Around 3.00 rear end gears. Got a C4 transmission so she won't take much abuse. 4V carb. No EFI. Given that, which heads would fit the bill. Looks like I can pick up a set of E7TE's or GT40P's for under $500. Either one of those work or anybody got any other suggestions?
Last edited by rsargent; Jul 16, 2010 at 09:17 PM. Reason: Found more info
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