Hello all.. I am making a rat rod out of a 52 Mercury M3. I was originally planning on swapping the flathead motor for something else. Like 302+C4 (I have a set sitting in my garage). As I look through the flat head, it doesnt look like its in terrible state. The guy who sold it to me said it hasnt run since the 70s. I checked the Oil.. its dark but its there. Rad has fluid that looks new. Tranny fluid looks okay too.

The biggest concern I had when buying the truck is that I noticed one of the spark plugs broken off. Today I took a closer look. I'm attaching a picture of what that looks like. The other spark plugs are were fairly loose and came off in a jiffy. How can I extract this broken off plug?Here are the pictures of what it looks like. Should I just take the head off on that one side and then drill the plug out?

Second question: I was told that this engine is seized from sitting. I thought I'll remove all spark plugs and spray in some PB Blaster and let it sit for a while. Do you guys think that may work?

Third: Would you suggest it's safe to plug in a 6V battery and try starting it? (That said, it didn't come with a key. So I'll have to jump it near the solenoid) Any recommendations? I would love not to throw away this flattie.

Thanks guys.

 

Can't really tell if the ceramic is still in that plug? (the part near the electrode) I fear someone has knocked the ceramic to pieces to try an EZ-out type extractor? If so, the only prudent thing to do is remove the head. Otherwise, cranking it (even by hand) could crush the ceramic between the piston and head, or bend a valve. Once the head is out, it shouldn't be hard to get what's left out of there. You'll also get a good look at the condition of the cylinders and valves.

 

Thanks Albuq. I'll get the head out tomorrow and see whats going on.

 

I think you will need to remove the head to get that plug out with minimum damage. If it was me I would remove both heads and intake to see what the cylinders and valves look like before trying to force a start. I doubt a 6v would unstick that motor. If you take the heads off then you can fill the clean out the top of the cylinders and fill them with something to unstick it. I have heard transmission fluid works well for that.

 

Another good reason to take apart the top end is you will be amazed what has managed to find its way into that motor even if it was stored indoors with the carb on.

 

i used diesel fuel to unstick mine , and patience is paramount !! i got in a hurry and had a valve stick and bent it when we got it too turn over . and yep pull the head , hades pull the intake too and clean out the lifter valley too make sure there's no nasty stuff floating around when you try to turn it over ...... oh and from experience , if you pull the intake , and go too reinstall it and the fuel pump , load the pump housing up with vaseline and set the pump rod in place . the greasy thick stuff will hold it in place long enough for you to drop it in place . i didn't and bent the pump rod , and whacked up the pump too ................ went electric on the pump though { put a block off plate on the intake and made a plug from the pump rod and a washer welded together to plug up the pump rod hole in the block } and never looked back .

 

Not to change the subject, but is there a reason to plug the pump rod hole in the block on an 8BA style flathead?

On everything else, I agree on what was said here. I'd pull at least the head with the broken spark plug. I'd probably pull both, and the intake.

 

Thanks for your reply guys. I will probably get the heads out today to inspect. On that aspect.. I still have the engine in my truck. I'm a little leery about taking the intake manifold off with the engine in the truck. Has anyone done this?

 

Why are you leery? It doesn't run anyhow, nothings gonna spring loose from removing the intake. Also as someone mentioned that valley under the intake is gonna need to be cleaned out. Thats likely where you will find the mouse nests also.

Should probably also mention you need to PB Blaster all the bolts on the heads and manifold for a couple days before you start to take them out. If they move a little then get stuck, PB em again and wait. Nothing worse than a broken bolt stuck in the block.

 

Sure. The first time I "overhauled" my flathead it stayed in the truck. (I was 15) I only changed the gaskets, rings, and rod bearings, but it ran great and had great oil pressure.

2 years later I replaced the heads and intake with Offy heads and 2-deuce intake with it still in the truck.

 

That's inspiring. Alrighto.. gonna open the sucker up today.

 

That's a valid argument. I just PB Blasted all the bolts yesterday. I'll check if they come out easy today. Else, ill PB them again as you mentioned.

 

Try tightening each head bolt a small amount, not even a full flat, then use a breaker bar and give it a jolt like an impact to loosen. Babying them is when they twist off.

I've had my intake off more times than I can count, with the engine in the truck. I've also had to pull a head. It's no treat, especially when it comes time to reach over the fenders and set them back in place. Make up some pilot bolts ahead of time. BTW, O'Reillys has flathead gasket sets as cheap as I've see, like $60, and they are fresh.

For the PS head, I'd be very inclined to take out the battery tray. If you have some helpers around, taking off the hood is a huge help.

 

as for the plug in the fuel pump rod hole , i lost oil pressure big time when i first put it back together without it , so i made a plug to keep the oil from running into it and no more oil pressure issues . they say on the 8ba ya don't have to , but in my case i did .

 

I made a plug for mine using the old pushrod, cut off about 3" of it and welded a nut on top, dropped it into the hole. I drove it like that for about 5 years, oil pressure was fine. Then last year I had to do some valve work, and pulled the intake off -- the plug was laying in the valve chest! Had been for the whole time. Oil pressure just shot it up and out of the hole. So I made a longer plug that couldn't pop out, because it would hit on the bottom of the fuel pump blanking plate. No difference in oil pressure. But I've see posts from guys who have run 8BA's on a run-in stand, with and without a plug, and it made 10 psi difference. One of the many mysteries of the flathead...