Driver Front Door Interior Wind Noise
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 40
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From: Key West, Fl
Driver Front Door Interior Wind Noise
Anybody experiencing interior wind noise on their new 2011 trucks? I'm getting wind noise coming from the front driver's door, sounding like it's originating from the top front corner of the door. Everything around the door seems ok and no noticeable mis-alignment. Any suggestions?
Going to have the dealer check it out.
Other than that, I am so far extremely pleased with the truck. I reluctantly traded my 2008 6.4l with only 22K on it for this truck, but was fed up with the "High Humidity" operating problems. I only have 380 miles on the truck, and will finally get to put it on the highway this weekend.
In comparison to what I was going through with my '08, if the wind noise is all I have to deal with, I will be extremely happy.
Will
Going to have the dealer check it out.
Other than that, I am so far extremely pleased with the truck. I reluctantly traded my 2008 6.4l with only 22K on it for this truck, but was fed up with the "High Humidity" operating problems. I only have 380 miles on the truck, and will finally get to put it on the highway this weekend.
In comparison to what I was going through with my '08, if the wind noise is all I have to deal with, I will be extremely happy.
Will
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
[quote=My08F250FX4;9060978]Anybody experiencing interior wind noise on their new 2011 trucks? I'm getting wind noise coming from the front driver's door, sounding like it's originating from the top front corner of the door. Everything around the door seems ok and no noticeable mis-alignment. Any suggestions?
Going to have the dealer check it out.
Other than that, I am so far extremely pleased with the truck. I reluctantly traded my 2008 6.4l with only 22K on it for this truck, but was fed up with the "High Humidity" operating problems. I only have 380 miles on the truck, and will finally get to put it on the highway this weekend.
In comparison to what I was going through with my '08, if the wind noise is all I have to deal with, I will be extremely happy.
Will
Will, no wind noice here....f350 cc, lb, 4x4, 3.31....has the dealer looked at it.
Going to have the dealer check it out.
Other than that, I am so far extremely pleased with the truck. I reluctantly traded my 2008 6.4l with only 22K on it for this truck, but was fed up with the "High Humidity" operating problems. I only have 380 miles on the truck, and will finally get to put it on the highway this weekend.
In comparison to what I was going through with my '08, if the wind noise is all I have to deal with, I will be extremely happy.
Will
<!-- / message --><!-- controls -->
/quote]Will, no wind noice here....f350 cc, lb, 4x4, 3.31....has the dealer looked at it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 35
From: North of Salt Lake City
No wind noise on mine. I am thinking I am going to improve the door seals though. They don't close perfectly with the factory seal. Kind of a "wobble" when I shut it as if there is a slight amount of play between the door seal and the cab. I fixed this on my Excursion by inserting a 3/8 inch OD length of surgical tubing through the inside of the door seal to give it a little more mass. Made the door close more solid, wobble-free.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
No wind noise on mine. I am thinking I am going to improve the door seals though. They don't close perfectly with the factory seal. Kind of a "wobble" when I shut it as if there is a slight amount of play between the door seal and the cab. I fixed this on my Excursion by inserting a 3/8 inch OD length of surgical tubing through the inside of the door seal to give it a little more mass. Made the door close more solid, wobble-free.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Key West, Fl
[quote=roadkingfl;9061870]
I'm taking the truck to the dealer on Monday the 5th, the shop said it would be open. I've cycled the mirrors both extended and folded with no difference in the wind noise. It still sounds like it's coming from the upper corner. Not sure if the window is seating fully when all the way up, or if the air is coming through the top of the door.
And to make matters worse, now there is a bad rattle coming from above the headliner within the sunroof components, so I'm going to have that checked as well
I really hope this truck isn't going to give me a bunch of problems. But at least these are small problems in comparison to what my '08 F250 put me through.
No wind noise on mine. I am thinking I am going to improve the door seals though. They don't close perfectly with the factory seal. Kind of a "wobble" when I shut it as if there is a slight amount of play between the door seal and the cab. I fixed this on my Excursion by inserting a 3/8 inch OD length of surgical tubing through the inside of the door seal to give it a little more mass. Made the door close more solid, wobble-free.
I'm taking the truck to the dealer on Monday the 5th, the shop said it would be open. I've cycled the mirrors both extended and folded with no difference in the wind noise. It still sounds like it's coming from the upper corner. Not sure if the window is seating fully when all the way up, or if the air is coming through the top of the door.
And to make matters worse, now there is a bad rattle coming from above the headliner within the sunroof components, so I'm going to have that checked as well
I really hope this truck isn't going to give me a bunch of problems. But at least these are small problems in comparison to what my '08 F250 put me through.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 501
Likes: 1
From: Anaheim, CA
No wind noise on mine. I am thinking I am going to improve the door seals though. They don't close perfectly with the factory seal. Kind of a "wobble" when I shut it as if there is a slight amount of play between the door seal and the cab. I fixed this on my Excursion by inserting a 3/8 inch OD length of surgical tubing through the inside of the door seal to give it a little more mass. Made the door close more solid, wobble-free.
sounds like a good idea to get a better seal...
3/8" OD but what size wall works best ??
where does a peron get the surgical tubing from besides random place online ??
are you just inserting it inside the hollow cavity in the factory door seal ??
how do you get it all the way around inside the seal ??
I see the split in the door seal at the bottom but not sure I could thread it all the way around the door from there....
thanks !
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 35
From: North of Salt Lake City
Ok, I just did the driver's door and it makes a huge difference. You have to use surgical tubing because the other types of tube (vinyl and poly) are too stiff. In the winter they would harden completely and potentially damage the seal. The surgical tubing stays pliable. I got a roll of 50 feet from Amazon for $40. Amazon.com: 50 ft Roll 3/8 Surgical Tubing: Sports & Outdoors You could get this stuff from many other places including Home Depot or Lowes.
Installation is really easy. You remove the plastic step plate that covers the gap between the body and the carpet. Pull straight up and the plastic tabs release and expose a bunch of wiring. You will see the door seal seam in the bottom center of the door frame. I place a mark on the door frame with a marker where the seam is. Makes it much easier to reinstall in the exact same place. Then you simply pull the seal straight up and off the tab of the door frame. When you straighten the entire thing out, it's quite long. I didn't measure exactly but it's about 12 - 13 feet end to end.
You will need to be liberal with some type of lubrication. I used a silicone spray. Note the ventilation holes in the door seal about every four inches. I squirted some silicone through every other hole to make sure the entire length of the inner seal had enough of the slippery stuff. Then you run the fish tape through the entire length and attach the surgical tubing to the fish tape that protrudes out the other end. I cleaned the silicone off the end of the fish tape attached the surgical tubing with electricians tape.
At this point if you can get someone to help you it's great. They pull the fish tape back through while you feed in the surgical tubing and spray silicone as it goes in. If everything is slick enough, it takes about a minute to pull the tubing through. If you don't have enough lube, it will get stuck and you'll have to withdraw the tubing and add more spray in the vent holes. Pretty easy. Cut off the surgical tubing flush with the door seal and re-install on the door. Re-install the step plate and close the door. Notice now the "wobble" is gone and it shuts like a Mercedes. Solid.
The first door might take you 20 minutes, the next three more like 10 minutes each. This DOOR SEAL MOD is a piece of cake and worthy little project. It not only makes the doors close more confidently, but also removes any possibility of wind noise or door rattling when going over bumps in the road. You never have to worry about the surgical tubing breaking down over time as it is completely hidden inside the factory door seal. No UV exposure there.
Installation is really easy. You remove the plastic step plate that covers the gap between the body and the carpet. Pull straight up and the plastic tabs release and expose a bunch of wiring. You will see the door seal seam in the bottom center of the door frame. I place a mark on the door frame with a marker where the seam is. Makes it much easier to reinstall in the exact same place. Then you simply pull the seal straight up and off the tab of the door frame. When you straighten the entire thing out, it's quite long. I didn't measure exactly but it's about 12 - 13 feet end to end.
You will need to be liberal with some type of lubrication. I used a silicone spray. Note the ventilation holes in the door seal about every four inches. I squirted some silicone through every other hole to make sure the entire length of the inner seal had enough of the slippery stuff. Then you run the fish tape through the entire length and attach the surgical tubing to the fish tape that protrudes out the other end. I cleaned the silicone off the end of the fish tape attached the surgical tubing with electricians tape.
At this point if you can get someone to help you it's great. They pull the fish tape back through while you feed in the surgical tubing and spray silicone as it goes in. If everything is slick enough, it takes about a minute to pull the tubing through. If you don't have enough lube, it will get stuck and you'll have to withdraw the tubing and add more spray in the vent holes. Pretty easy. Cut off the surgical tubing flush with the door seal and re-install on the door. Re-install the step plate and close the door. Notice now the "wobble" is gone and it shuts like a Mercedes. Solid.
The first door might take you 20 minutes, the next three more like 10 minutes each. This DOOR SEAL MOD is a piece of cake and worthy little project. It not only makes the doors close more confidently, but also removes any possibility of wind noise or door rattling when going over bumps in the road. You never have to worry about the surgical tubing breaking down over time as it is completely hidden inside the factory door seal. No UV exposure there.
Last edited by EpicCowlick; Jul 2, 2010 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Spelling: DOOR SEAL MOD
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
From: SE Wisconsin
Ok, I just did the driver's door and it makes a huge difference. You have to use surgical tubing because the other types of tube (vinyl and poly) are too stiff. In the winter time they would harden completely and potentially damage the seal. The surgical tubing stays pliable. I got a roll of 50 feet from Amazon for $40. Amazon.com: 50 ft Roll 3/8 Surgical Tubing: Sports & Outdoors You could get this stuff from many other places including Home Depot or Lowes.
Installation is really easy. You remove the plastic step plate that covers the gap between the body and the carpet. Pull straight up and the plastic tabs release and expose a bunch of wiring. You will see the door seal seam in the bottom center of the door frame. I place a mark on the door frame with a marker where the seam is. Makes it much easier to reinstall in the exact same place. Then you simply pull the seal straight up and off the tab of the door frame. When you straighten the entire thing out, it's quite long. I didn't measure exactly but it's about 12 - 13 feet end to end.
You will need to be liberal with some type of lubrication. I used a silicone spray. Note the ventilation holes in the door seal about every four inches. I squirted some silicone through every other hole to make sure the entire length of the inner seal had enough of the slippery stuff. Then you run the fish tape through the entire length and attach the surgical tubing to the fish tape that protrudes out the other end. I cleaned the silicone off the end of the fish tape attached the surgical tubing with electricians tape.
At this point if you can get someone to help you it's great. They pull the fish tape back through while you feed in the surgical tubing and spray silicone as it goes in. If everything is slick enough, it takes about a minute to pull the tubing through. If you don't have enough lube, it will get stuck and you'll have to withdraw the tubing and add more spray in the vent holes. Pretty easy. Cut off the surgical tubing flush with the door seal and re-install on the door. Re-install the step plate and close the door. Notice now the "wobble" is gone and it shuts like a Mercedes. Solid.
The first door might take you 20 minutes, the next three more like 10 minutes each. This DOOR SEAL MOD is a piece of cake and worthy little project. It not only makes the doors close more confidently, but also removes any possibility of wind noise or door rattling when going over bumps in the road. You never have to worry about the surgical tubing breaking down over time as it is completely hidden inside the factory door seal. No UV exposure there.
Installation is really easy. You remove the plastic step plate that covers the gap between the body and the carpet. Pull straight up and the plastic tabs release and expose a bunch of wiring. You will see the door seal seam in the bottom center of the door frame. I place a mark on the door frame with a marker where the seam is. Makes it much easier to reinstall in the exact same place. Then you simply pull the seal straight up and off the tab of the door frame. When you straighten the entire thing out, it's quite long. I didn't measure exactly but it's about 12 - 13 feet end to end.
You will need to be liberal with some type of lubrication. I used a silicone spray. Note the ventilation holes in the door seal about every four inches. I squirted some silicone through every other hole to make sure the entire length of the inner seal had enough of the slippery stuff. Then you run the fish tape through the entire length and attach the surgical tubing to the fish tape that protrudes out the other end. I cleaned the silicone off the end of the fish tape attached the surgical tubing with electricians tape.
At this point if you can get someone to help you it's great. They pull the fish tape back through while you feed in the surgical tubing and spray silicone as it goes in. If everything is slick enough, it takes about a minute to pull the tubing through. If you don't have enough lube, it will get stuck and you'll have to withdraw the tubing and add more spray in the vent holes. Pretty easy. Cut off the surgical tubing flush with the door seal and re-install on the door. Re-install the step plate and close the door. Notice now the "wobble" is gone and it shuts like a Mercedes. Solid.
The first door might take you 20 minutes, the next three more like 10 minutes each. This DOOR SEAL MOD is a piece of cake and worthy little project. It not only makes the doors close more confidently, but also removes any possibility of wind noise or door rattling when going over bumps in the road. You never have to worry about the surgical tubing breaking down over time as it is completely hidden inside the factory door seal. No UV exposure there.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: St. John's Newfoundland
Door Seal Mod Instructions
Ok, I just did the driver's door and it makes a huge difference. .................This DOOR SEAL MOD is a piece of cake and worthy little project. It not only makes the doors close more confidently, but also removes any possibility of wind noise or door rattling when going over bumps in the road. You never have to worry about the surgical tubing breaking down over time as it is completely hidden inside the factory door seal. No UV exposure there.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Key West, Fl
Ok, I just did the driver's door and it makes a huge difference. You have to use surgical tubing because the other types of tube (vinyl and poly) are too stiff. In the winter they would harden completely and potentially damage the seal. The surgical tubing stays pliable. I got a roll of 50 feet from Amazon for $40. Amazon.com: 50 ft Roll 3/8 Surgical Tubing: Sports & Outdoors You could get this stuff from many other places including Home Depot or Lowes.
Installation is really easy. You remove the plastic step plate that covers the gap between the body and the carpet. Pull straight up and the plastic tabs release and expose a bunch of wiring. You will see the door seal seam in the bottom center of the door frame. I place a mark on the door frame with a marker where the seam is. Makes it much easier to reinstall in the exact same place. Then you simply pull the seal straight up and off the tab of the door frame. When you straighten the entire thing out, it's quite long. I didn't measure exactly but it's about 12 - 13 feet end to end.
You will need to be liberal with some type of lubrication. I used a silicone spray. Note the ventilation holes in the door seal about every four inches. I squirted some silicone through every other hole to make sure the entire length of the inner seal had enough of the slippery stuff. Then you run the fish tape through the entire length and attach the surgical tubing to the fish tape that protrudes out the other end. I cleaned the silicone off the end of the fish tape attached the surgical tubing with electricians tape.
At this point if you can get someone to help you it's great. They pull the fish tape back through while you feed in the surgical tubing and spray silicone as it goes in. If everything is slick enough, it takes about a minute to pull the tubing through. If you don't have enough lube, it will get stuck and you'll have to withdraw the tubing and add more spray in the vent holes. Pretty easy. Cut off the surgical tubing flush with the door seal and re-install on the door. Re-install the step plate and close the door. Notice now the "wobble" is gone and it shuts like a Mercedes. Solid.
The first door might take you 20 minutes, the next three more like 10 minutes each. This DOOR SEAL MOD is a piece of cake and worthy little project. It not only makes the doors close more confidently, but also removes any possibility of wind noise or door rattling when going over bumps in the road. You never have to worry about the surgical tubing breaking down over time as it is completely hidden inside the factory door seal. No UV exposure there.
Installation is really easy. You remove the plastic step plate that covers the gap between the body and the carpet. Pull straight up and the plastic tabs release and expose a bunch of wiring. You will see the door seal seam in the bottom center of the door frame. I place a mark on the door frame with a marker where the seam is. Makes it much easier to reinstall in the exact same place. Then you simply pull the seal straight up and off the tab of the door frame. When you straighten the entire thing out, it's quite long. I didn't measure exactly but it's about 12 - 13 feet end to end.
You will need to be liberal with some type of lubrication. I used a silicone spray. Note the ventilation holes in the door seal about every four inches. I squirted some silicone through every other hole to make sure the entire length of the inner seal had enough of the slippery stuff. Then you run the fish tape through the entire length and attach the surgical tubing to the fish tape that protrudes out the other end. I cleaned the silicone off the end of the fish tape attached the surgical tubing with electricians tape.
At this point if you can get someone to help you it's great. They pull the fish tape back through while you feed in the surgical tubing and spray silicone as it goes in. If everything is slick enough, it takes about a minute to pull the tubing through. If you don't have enough lube, it will get stuck and you'll have to withdraw the tubing and add more spray in the vent holes. Pretty easy. Cut off the surgical tubing flush with the door seal and re-install on the door. Re-install the step plate and close the door. Notice now the "wobble" is gone and it shuts like a Mercedes. Solid.
The first door might take you 20 minutes, the next three more like 10 minutes each. This DOOR SEAL MOD is a piece of cake and worthy little project. It not only makes the doors close more confidently, but also removes any possibility of wind noise or door rattling when going over bumps in the road. You never have to worry about the surgical tubing breaking down over time as it is completely hidden inside the factory door seal. No UV exposure there.
Awesome writeup, will definitely give this a try. Gonna give the dealer first crack at fixing mine and even if they do manage to fix it, I'm going to add your fix to further enhance the seal.
Thanks Again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Will
Moderator's........any chance on making the writeup a "sticky"?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 35
From: North of Salt Lake City
No problem. This really is a great improvement for the rather marginal factory door seals. I did this on my 99 Expedition and 2000 Excursion. As great as the overall Ford product is, they haven't improved their seals in over a decade and they all suffer from the same old rattling over time. The seals will eventually fade in their performance on 100% of the vehicles because they just don't have enough mass to fully control the big, heavy doors. Adding this insert accomplishes that.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,158
Likes: 35
From: North of Salt Lake City
I'm sure there's no problem. The joint could technically be anywhere in the door. FYI if you haven't already watched the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XR-J7VTN80
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XR-J7VTN80