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I have a 2003 f350 super duty with the 6.0 diesel, when the air temp is cold it has extended crank, smokes when it starts and runs rough until it warms up, now that its summer time it starts and runs fine, I'm thinkin a glow plug or module issue, what is the correct way to check the glow plugs and glow plug system, I'm a chevy diesel tech so these fords are foreign to me, any ideas
then after that I would check for codes. You can have them without a cel. Chances are its not gp related. Or at least the odds as to what I have seen are against gp. You can check the gp with a ohm meter at the connector. Unplug the connector thats at the top of the valve cover and ohm each pin to ground. You shouldn't get more than 1-2 ohms resistance (IIRC).
I could understand it bein the ficm or an injector, but it only does it if its cold outside, right now its fine cuz its warm out, with my experience bein a chevy diesel tech, if the glow plugs are out they smoke till the truck warsm up, I would hate to pay the dealer to reflash the controllers and still have the same issue
There is a small spool valve in the top of the injector that controls the flow of high oil pressure fed to the intensifier piston in the fuel injector. That spool valve only moves .017", back and forth, on and off every time the injector fires. Many factors play in to how well that valve works such as, oil temp, oil quality, normal wear, ambient temp, and many others. As this valve ages it polishes itself inside the bore of the spool valve and as the spool valve slams back and forth it can set up the condition like a suction cup, hanging the valve to one side or the other. This uncommanded uncontrollable condition is called stiction. Mostly its a rough run cold condition but in severe cases it can be a no start or pretty harsh misfire condition. Oil that stays inside the valve on a hot engine shutdown and is allowed to cool slowly in the injector can aggravate the condition on restart.
The newest reflash uses inductive heat after shutdown to keep the oil warm, keep its viscosity low, and maximize the oil flowability to purge the oil from them. It has worked fantastic. It is an excellent preventative measure if you don't already have it.
Not saying it isn't glow plugs, because some folks have had glow plug problems ........ BUT, the glow plug system is fairly reliable and stiction is VERY common. Also, the use of the wrong oil (too thick) or extended oil change intervals can cause the same type of issue.
As 69cj said, it could also be a weak FICM. They amplify the system voltage to 48 volts and unfortunately the soldering on the circuit boards stink (it cracks). You could easily have FICM circuit board soldering issues that get worse in cold weather (cracks open up more).
Why would a chevy diesel tech be driving a Ford? LOL
thats all I own, I have a 2000 F150 4x4, with a procharger and my lady drives a 2001 expedition, I work on chevys all day and know what a POS they are, I have a 125K on mine and she has 115K on hers with no problems, other than normal maintance
the ficm oand the gpcm are both tied in to the temp sensors for cold starts. so check the ficm.
to test the glowplugs, onhook at the buss bar and ohm them out to gorund. they should be less then 2ohms.
I am also a GM tech. I am a World Class Tech from GM one of 2500 in the country. I also think the general's product is crap. But I have been into them for so long it is hard to make a move to ford or anywhere else. Because of the factory training that you need to get to the same level That I am with GM. Sorry if I hijacked. Bu tI will say this working on the 6.0 is ALOT easier than any d-max
I am also a GM tech. I am a World Class Tech from GM one of 2500 in the country. I also think the general's product is crap. But I have been into them for so long it is hard to make a move to ford or anywhere else. Because of the factory training that you need to get to the same level That I am with GM. Sorry if I hijacked. Bu tI will say this working on the 6.0 is ALOT easier than any d-max
I am workin on my world class, all I need are my assessments to be world class, I would have to dissagree about the 6.0 bein easier to work, the dmax is way easy to work on, way more room
I did the headgaskets out side my garage in 13 hours. It took 20 at the shop to do a d-max. Ever change a d-max turbo???? There are differances but I think the powerstroke is easier.
I have been a gm tech, dodge tech, toyota tech, daewoo tech. I went back to ford. just all around a much nicer platform and we get paid for diag. I also have a bad habbit of when I cut my self I bleed BLUE.
That daewoo that there was nice piece huh????? Wonder why they didn't make it??? I think it was a rebadged chevy now an aveo yet another fine piece!!!
you are right they were a rebadge chevy powerplant I wanna say a 1.6 and a 2.2l
really were not that bad of a car, they got good milage and ran ok for the $6995 price tag for a base model what could one really hope to get. till they lost the timing belt anyway, man that is an expensive little engine.